I bought the 91 Si for a winter "beater", but the more I drive the more Im liking the little car. I've got most of the rust repaired and the paint / interior are in great shape for its age. Any ways, I'm having a few problems that I need some help with:

1. Rear hatch wont open with the key. It only release from the lever inside. The key turns fine but wont open the hatch, any ideas?

2. Fan control on the HVAC system doesnt work on setting #2. Which of course is the setting I want to use most fo the time. the rest of the settings and controls work fine (accpet the A/C).

3. The seat belt retractors are retracting very well any more. They work, but need a bit of "guidance". This concerns me in case of an accident. Can these be fixed?

4. Are there any FAQ's on changing the fluid in the trans? What type is everyone using? It actually shifts pretty nice, but has a very slight grind into reverse, but only occasionally.

TIA for any help!

 

Bump, any help for a newbie?

 

i've got a hvac panel for you if you want it....$20 shipped soud good?

 

Thats what its gonna take to fix the fan control? If so then I am interested.

 

More than likely the cause of the heater not working on only setting 2 would be your blower motor resistor. You can find it behind the glove box on top of thew blower motor housing, its black and has a wire connector going into it and has 2 philip head screws holding it in.

As for the tranny fluid you could try GM syncromesh that has helped quite a few people out with their grinds BUT I think with it grinding into only reverse your clutch might be getting old so if anything try adjusting it under the hood you will see where the cable hooks up to the tranny screw that a few times to take the slack out and see if that helps.

As for the rear hatch take off the back panel and see if the lock is still connected to the rod which pops it open. There is a plastic clip back there it may have fallen off or broke or the rod might have come off as well.

As for the seatbelts I believe there was a recall on them quite a few yeara back but not sure?? You could take it to the Honda dealer and bitch and see what they can do for you because when it comes to the seatbelts and your safety most of the time they will work with you on it. Otherwise your option would be to replace them completely with ones you buy from someone however you may still have that problem with used ones?? I would try the Honda dealer thats your best bet.

 

Honda will and has to replace defective belts for free. So make sure you get that into honda.

 

Sweet, thanks guys! So the dealer may replace the belts for free? Also the dealer would stock (or be able to order) it?

Ill try to adjust the clutch cable. I thought they were hydralic, glad I know otherwise now. Since I dont have any records of the last (if ever) fluid change Id like to do one regardless. Would the Synchromesh be best, or just use a regular "fluid". If so, what kind? I rememebr my Contour SE used Mobil 1 ATF with Ford friction modifier added.

I plan to detail the interior this weekend anyway, so Ill check out the lock in the hatch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightngsvt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sweet, thanks guys! So the dealer may replace the belts for free? Also the dealer would stock (or be able to order) it?

Since I dont have any records of the last (if ever) fluid change Id like to do one regardless. Would the Synchromesh be best, or just use a regular "fluid". If so, what kind?</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK with the seatbelts they will either do it for free or very cheap and yes they should either stock them or at the very least they will be able to order them.

As for the fluid well first try adjusting it and see if that helps your grind if so then just use Honda MTF it has friction modifiers in it already. Otherwise if it does still grind you could try the GM Syncromesh then if you wanted to, BUT like I said earlier if its only grinding into reverse and adjusting it doesnt help it might be time for a new clutch. You can find cheap little bit better than OEM clutches on Ebay for under 100 bucks by Exedy if you need one that is.

 

VinceG99 (and everyone), thanks for the help! Well I was able to fix 2 of the problems so far. The rear latch was just what you said, the rod had come loose due to the plastic peice it sits being partially broken. I was able to get it back fairly in securely and is holding fine so far.

The clutch adjust was super simple, now it engages closer to the top of the travel instead of off the floor. Even the clutch chatter I had seems better. Im still affraid itll need a clutch soon. Even with the adjustment it *sometimes* still engages right off the floor, but only for a few depressions? ANd sometimes its real "grabby"?

On the heater, now settings 1 and 2 dont work for the fan. From underneath I can see the fan motor, but nothing else. Looking over the top of the glove box I see a small, black "box" with 2 phillips screws and a wire harness going into it. Is that the fan control? If so, how do I drop the glove box to get at it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lightngsvt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On the heater, now settings 1 and 2 dont work for the fan. From underneath I can see the fan motor, but nothing else. Looking over the top of the glove box I see a small, black "box" with 2 phillips screws and a wire harness going into it. Is that the fan control? If so, how do I drop the glove box to get at it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah I would definately say that its your blower motor resistor (small black "box" with the 2 philip head screws) As for how you drop your glove box there will be 4 10mm bolts that you will have to remove they are on the bottom on the bracket you can either take it off the bracket or take out the glovebox and the bracket together take a lokk under your glove box and you will see what I mean. The bolts will also have a head for a philips as well but they are tight so your better off with a 10mm socket.

Any other questions just ask if anything I will try to find a pic of it for you.

 

for your reverse grind
dont shift right into reverse. shift into 1st first then into reverse and it will never grind again.

 

Cool, thanks again guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91civicLX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">for your reverse grind
dont shift right into reverse. shift into 1st first then into reverse and it will never grind again.</TD></TR></TABLE>
This is true...