i found an LS/VTEC swap for sale around my area. i was wondering if it's worth $2k. here's what the add said:

95 legit LS block, 49,000 miles, have papers, 1000 miles on new seals, bearings, rings, B16 pistons; GSR head, GSR tranny, ACT clutch, itr cams, flywheel, valve cover; fuel press reg, 11.6 compression. comes w/ mounts, ecu, shft link. skunk 2 engine dress ups. serial # given out upon request.

what do you guys think? should i get it or just save up for an ITR motor?

 

16 views and no replys

 

i think its pretty good deal....it comes with a tranny...

 

**** yeah thats worth it, id be all over it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1 point 6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">**** yeah thats worth it, id be all over it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what do you think it would run on the quarter in an EG CX...i know it depends on the driving...but just need a rough estimate

 

Most LS/Vtec setups with similar if not exact mods are definitely in the 14s. But then all kinds of factors come into play.

 

In a CX, I could see a good running motor with the above mentioned mods running high 13's

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In a CX, I could see a good running motor with the above mentioned mods running high 13's</TD></TR></TABLE>

I do concur, but definitely 14s at the least.

 

I don't know, I was just thinking about this thread. Sounds a little too good to be true. Not trying to spoil your find, but just wondering why it's so cheap.

 

Compression & leak down test that biatch...some builders use stock size pistons (in a used motor) which may not be the best & can cause ring sealing problems

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adirondackR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Compression & leak down test that biatch...some builders use stock size pistons (in a used motor) which may not be the best & can cause ring sealing problems</TD></TR></TABLE>

sorry for a newb question but how do you do a leakdown test? compression test is easy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rodrez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't know, I was just thinking about this thread. Sounds a little too good to be true. Not trying to spoil your find, but just wondering why it's so cheap. </TD></TR></TABLE>

you think it might be stolen or something is wrong with it? i can always do a compression and leakdown test. i just need to learn how to do a leakdown test. he also said he had the papers for it. so i dunno....ill just see whats up.

 

A number of people have asked "What is a LEAK DOWN test?" and "Can I do it myself?". First, let me explain the concept. We already use a compression test to determine an engines condiditon. the problem with this test is that there are too many variables. It can only be used to check engine condition by comparing cylinders to each other or a past norm. Variables such as cam profile, engine cranking speed etc, will affect the readings.

A leak down tester uses air from a compressor and measures the rate at which it leaks through the engine. This is done with the engine not running and the beauty of this is that toy can find the source of the leakage by listening for the escaped air. Internal leakge is found by air bubbles in the cooling system. Tools need are a leakdown tester, and an air compressor. The tester is available from Milton at about $60.00. Compressor should be at least 2hp and deliver 90psi.

Procedure: Remove spark plugs. Set engine to TDC #1. Calibrate test gauge per the instructions. Lock engine so it can not turn. Conect hose to spark plug hole, Conect pressurized gauge to hose connection. Read leakage. If looking for coolant leaks and nothing obvious shows up, bypass gauge and connect shop air direct to cylinder. Open radiator cap before this. If coolant sprays out, you have a head problem. Do same test on rest of cylinders. Remember to set TDC of each piston for compression stroke. This test is also great for air cooled haed leaks and valve problems. Note that all engines will have some leakge past the rings. I always do full pressure test when I suspect a problem. Make sure engine is secured with full pressure test. it will spin violently. With gauge connected, you can rock crankshaft to see if leakage changes. If so, this is a sign that the ring lands are wearing, new engines will also do this until the rings are seated.

I know these instructions are kinda flaky, but I hope this gives some insight as to this type of test. If having a mechanic work on your vehicle, he should be familiar with the leakdown test. I would be concerned if he isn't. This is a basic troubleshooting tool that all fleets use.

 

This motor sounds like an excellent deal for $2K, when you install it remember to use an ITR water pump

 

Well if he's offering the numbers up front, must be a legit block unless he restamped it, but the price seems so low. If you can run the leakdown/comp tests and they turn out good, and it's a legit serial number, I'd jump on it, that's really cheap.

 

Sounds like a Really good deal, if its got papers then its prolly not stolen... owell stolen or not good deal, Get It

 

damn...i dont think i can do a leakdown test unless that guy has a compressor. i have a compressor but its mounted to the ground in my garage....lol....my girl bought me that 240V 6 foot tall compressor from sears for my b-day.