So my performances woes continue till today. Heres the problem. For the past month the car has been driving very sluggish especially in VTEC. VTEC turns on but the RPM's climb as fast as when driving in low RPMs. I checked the oil everything was fine. Did a 30k service. Car is still giving me the same issues, VTEC turns on but there is no significant change in pull in the VTEC rev range. I take it to the dealer, they check the VTEC solenoid, its working fine, turning on and the voltage is correct. They take it for a drive, take the air box cover off, the VTEC change over is certainly audible, but the RPMs climb as if VTEC didnt engage. Im sure all of you have noticed when you hit Vtec there is a distint change in sound accompanied by a very fast moving RPM needle, you can feel the pull. I feel no change in acceleration in VTEC. They are doing a compression test as we speak. What the hell could the problem be if nothing seems wrong mechanically? Pulling my hair out....

 

Try dynoing it with a wide band A/F. That will help you out greatly.

 

Any mods to the car? What about all the little stuff like fuel filters, plugs/wires, cap/rotor, etc?

 

Im sure it has something to do with the cams. I can only think that the A/F is off. Either not enough fuel or something, but Im surpprised you did not mention anything about throwing engine codes. Dont worry... Acura will fix it, hopefully it's under warranty. IF not purchase the extended.

I just got mine from Hsin at Sunnyvale Acura for $1300 for 100,000miles good luck!

 

I just got a valve adjustment, cap/rotor, spark plug seals, fuel filter, oil change.

Car is 100% stock.

paying out pocket for everything since its from Canada.

 

take all those girls out of the trunk...

if it's not pulling a code it's going to be hard for Acura to do much. A leakdown/compression may help.

Did something get jammed in the air passage?

 

Properly reset ECU?

 

The results from the compression test are back.

220lbs across the board. Leakdown test was fine.

I am completely out of ideas. I am pissed. I will ask them to reset the ECU.

I guess my only option is to take it to a tuner, but I have no means of tuning the car, I dont have a VAFC or hondata.

 

can the valve adjustment be too "tight", hampering performance?

 

Maybe the cam gears jumped a tooth or something.

 

you should definately put it on a dyno and get some a/f readings.
other guesses:
It's possible that your stock cat is clogged to the point where it's hurting performance. You can check exhaust backpressure using an 02 bung to test this (or unbolt the header and see how the car feels)
Also, bad gas? You should run out the existing tank and get some different fuel from somewhere else.

Other things to check:
Valve adjustment - slim, but possible chance that your valve timing is so far off that it's killing power
Ignition timing - check it, and set it at 16 - 18 degrees btdc if you haven't already
Plugs - replace em if you havn't already (autozone sells stock densos for $7 each)
Fuel Injectors - could be clogged - run some injector cleaner through to help clean out some of the gunk - might even need to get them professionaly cleaned
Fuel Filter - replace it

also - have the dealer do a leakdown test in addition to the compression test - the problem might be in the cylinder head...

Good luck

edit - noticed you just had the valves adjusted - it's possible that whoever did it screwed up - double check all the clearences - this might be the problem.

 

I have a VAFC you can get from me for 200 bux if you need one. I am going Hondata... Maybe its all those muscles and what not slowing you down

 

Amir deff bring the car up here this weekend. I will take a look and drive it or you can take me for a ride. We will fiqure something out trust me!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AamirCWITR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The results from the compression test are back.

220lbs across the board. Leakdown test was fine.

I am completely out of ideas. I am pissed. I will ask them to reset the ECU.

I guess my only option is to take it to a tuner, but I have no means of tuning the car, I dont have a VAFC or hondata.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Dude, reset the ECU yourself, takes 10 minutes.

Remove neg. battery cable. Leave off for 5 minutes. If you have stock CD player you will need the code to reuse it. Should be in owners manual.
Reconnect the neg. battery cable and let car idle (NO LOAD) for 3-5 minutes. Shut car off. Only need to wait a minute or so, and restart, take it out for a test drive...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can the valve adjustment be too "tight", hampering performance? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good idea, would definitely cause some malfuncation during vtec - i.e. during lift...

 

it might be the o2 sensor, it will change the fuel map if it is getting worn out and not sniffing o2 like it should.

 

DUDE,
i have EXACTLY the same problem!!!! vtec engages, but not very abruptly. you basically descibed it to the TEE.

did practically all the same things you did and replaced all the things i could (spark plugs, fuel filter, PCV valve etc. etc.). got my valves adjusted, checked timing, compression test....all normal.

dealer's kinda baffled. a tech thinks it's b/c my clutch is very worn and my clutch slips a bit when vtec hits. i already knew my clutch was worn since it's releases VERY high in the pedal, so i'm going to do is replace it and see what happens since i have to get it replaced anyways. will be done this monday.

hey, how's your gas mileage?? my gas mileage hasn't been very good either. i get maybe 250 miles until the gas light comes on with a full tank...all highway. maybe 220 mixed driving.
also, how was your car driving before a month ago ??

please keep in touch with me and i will be sure to do the same. maybe we can figure this whole thing out together.

oh, and my R is completely stock too....2000.

 

check you might have a clog exhaust. maybe your cat melted and i=creating a ristriction. you could anbolt your exhaut to check or check it vith a vacuum guage hooked up to a manifold vacuum.

 

1. as mentioned earlier - dyno the car with a/f - no need to tune it just to have it dynoed... everytime i made my car faster.. it still managed to feel stock after some time.. even after boosting.

2. did you replace air filter? - see if theres anything blocking the air inside air box or resonator..

3. check for exhaust leaks.. like gaskets

4. to reset ecu - all you have to do IS unplug battery, but that will not do anything because you're not throwing codes - ecu does not adjust except start up/idle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Smitdog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Amir deff bring the car up here this weekend. I will take a look and drive it or you can take me for a ride. We will fiqure something out trust me! </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah man.. bring it up.. we'll work it out..

 

Aamir, whoa another fellow paki R owner

 

I had a similar problem before. Car pulled like crap at high rpm, but the dealer couldn't find a problem. I finally told them to check all of the iginition components and it ended up being the distributor coils. Mine also had around 30k mi at the time.