Has anyone done this to their Honda? I'm about to try it, and would like to see some pics of your setups...

 

like a sub box port?

bump up for interesting idea

 

the answer to your question lies within>>>

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch

 

lol well played

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by phantom_sol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
bump up for interesting idea </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's a great idea!

Driving hard owns my brakes. About to start my 3rd set of rotors!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jisu009 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the answer to your question lies within&gt;&gt;&gt;

https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch</TD></TR></TABLE>


I must be retarded, i cant find 1 thread on brake ducts other than my own.

 

Search + "brake duct" + Archived content + Road Racing/Autocross:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=222393
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=302178
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=96441
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=59724
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=51873

There are definitely more, there's one in particular with a hose readily available from the HW store which didn't come up in that search.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KURRRWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Has anyone done this to their Honda?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

nobody has done it correctly yet...

pointing air at the back of a caliper , yeah I'm sure that does wonders for all you braking woes...

 

We are working on a prototype right now. Should have a product out by the end of the year after I have tested it extensively. Real Time make them in Carbon fiber but they are super expensive. Im shooting for sheet metal at under $100 bucks list.

this will be the first KRM product, and Im all excited about it.
Alex.

 

and for the EF civic/crx drivers, you can look here: http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html# for this item:



Seems like the right way to do it.

EDIT: AHEM, terribly sorry about the size. I'll remove the pic if ya'll want.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nobody has done it correctly yet...

pointing air at the back of a caliper , yeah I'm sure that does wonders for all you braking woes...

</TD></TR></TABLE>


actually.....mine is on the rotors!!!!! so i believe that is done correctly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KURRRWA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's a great idea!

Driving hard owns my brakes. About to start my 3rd set of rotors!

</TD></TR></TABLE>


What kind of brake pads are you using? Why have you gone through 3 sets of rotors and how quick? where are you "Driving Hard"?

 

My ducts:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=469405

 

If you decide to spend money instead of self-fabricating (which is very valuable experience), check these out:

http://www.imagestation.com/al...rt=21

Full composite and very light. The shields are good to 650-700F. I have some on my S2000 and they've held up to some very extreme conditions. I believe just the backing shields (fabricate your own scoops) go for about $200-$250. I believe the EG setup is currently in development - might be able to get a discount as a guinea pig. The guy who makes them is at tps21@earthlink.net

C_A_T

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by C_A_T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you decide to spend money instead of self-fabricating (which is very valuable experience), check these out:

http://www.imagestation.com/al...rt=21

Full composite and very light. The shields are good to 650-700F. I have some on my S2000 and they've held up to some very extreme conditions. I believe just the backing shields (fabricate your own scoops) go for about $200-$250. I believe the EG setup is currently in development - might be able to get a discount as a guinea pig. The guy who makes them is at tps21@earthlink.net

C_A_T

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Looks nice Shawn...but making the scoops out of CF adds a little $$ to the project, I'm a little worried about the high heat that the composite material would be subjected to. When I last spoke with Andie at Cobalt he estimated that I was having pad temperatures in the neighborhood of 1,400F, with temps that hot, how hot does the surrounding air get, and what temperture would the plates that the air inlet be subjected to.

It actually looks like what "D" produced from the stock heat shields, and when I was speaking with Real Time Racing at Sears Point one of the guys that surfs Honda-Tech noted that it was the best that he had seen for the stock size rotor.

Austin

 

Does the above EF "cooler" just bolt up to where the old brake lines use to?? If so that is a VERY awesome idea.

 

One bad trend that I have seen with almost all of the above brake ducts is that everyone is putting the vents to the wrong part of the brake. You do NOT want to cool the outside of the rotor. You want the air to go into the vanes of the rotor. Heat should travel from the face of the rotor to the inside vanes, where it is transfered to the air inside the rotor and out. This is the natural path for heat to travel without ducting, and it should be the same (just better) with the ducting. That is why the most critical part is where you actually duct the air into the rotor. There is not much room to duct into the space between the hub and the rotor. As for the intake for the ducts, any high pressure area will do (like the base of the windshield in my case) or use a naca duct on the side of the car or on the hood as well as the most common area, in the front bumper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Solracer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What kind of brake pads are you using? Why have you gone through 3 sets of rotors and how quick? where are you "Driving Hard"?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've been going through stock rotors, stock pads. I just switched to stock rotors and federal mogul pads.

 

I think I'm out $43 from Lowe's. Shop Vac 2.5 inch hose w/ the rectangle attachment underneath the front bumper. It is ghetto as hell, but I have not had 1 instance of fade since I put them in and I have punished, PUNISHED my brakes at PIR and PR. I used to have fade, now I never have it. People laugh when they hear how I did it and what I'm using, but when they see them they are impressed. Best $40 I've ever spent

Zach

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">One bad trend that I have seen with almost all of the above brake ducts is that everyone is putting the vents to the wrong part of the brake.</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You want the air to go into the vanes of the rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That is why the most critical part is where you actually duct the air into the rotor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, yes and yes.

finally someone else gets it...

 

Absolutely! you have to duct air to the center of the vented rotor so it cools from the inside as the rotor rotates (centrifugal force and all that right?). I have a lovely set on my 944 that replace the backing plates and duct it right down in there, and thats what we are trying to do with the prototype. Its not as easy though as there is all this driveshaft stuff in the way! :

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor CorteZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes, yes and yes.

finally someone else gets it... </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

The scoops are probably not necessary for most people. Just cut holes in the bumper or draw from in front of the radiator. But in my case I draw cold air from my bumper inlet on the S2000. They can also be made out of glass too.

With respect to temps, I actually went through a bunch of temp testing when these were being prototyped. The initial designs went through the glass transition temp and just sagged (and smoldered ). The resin in use now is very strong and gets even better as its thermal cycled. While the brake rotor/pad interface gets very hot (I also use Carbotech products, as well as Hawk Blues), the rotor face away from the pad cools quickly and there is a half inch air gap between the shield and rotor which is helped by the incoming air from the vent. In practice, 20-30 lap stints at Streets of Willow and Buttonwillow in 100+ ambient temps showed no problems with the back shields. It would be nice to do some thermocouple datalogging, but for now I'm happy with the results. The designer is also a thermal engineer with Boeing, so I'm pretty confident in his design calcs.

And on the topic of getting air to the rotor eye - absolutely. That's one reason why I liked this design. The nozzle focuses air right at the center of the rotor where the vents pick up air. And by keeping a back shield you ensure maximum utilization of the incoming cool air.

C_A_T