Here are some shots of my simple duct/diverters:






Here's an interesting story. 5 days on a set of Blues did this to KVR EuroRotors. No there was no metal to metal.




Scott, who has no complaints about his brakes at this time. Going to HT-10's on front and Blues on the back next year. Of course now that I own several sets of those, I hear that Pagid is the latest hot thing....


[Modified by RR98ITR, 9:20 PM 12/2/2001]

 

What material is that?

 

John,

It's made up of steel mandrel bends that I bought from a muffler shop.

If anybody feels the impulse to suggest that they are then heavy and should be made of aluminum or carbon you should get real. They weigh next to nothing. They also have the advantages of being easy to fab and repair. They have made several full travel off road style off courses and not plowed up any dirt.

Scott, who's not saying this to his good friend John....it's just that he's heard this sort of BS before and is anticipating predictable behavior.....

 

Looks good to me.

 

scott i know you do more research than i do, but even still, i recommend not running such aggressive pads as they can be a bit hard to modulate. the nsx calipers will help a bit, but this is my opinion... in the wet, it will be even tougher. ive always wrenched on my car with a minimalistic attitude and i thought about you running more pad and i asked myself 'is the car really lacking in the brake area?'. the answer for me was no, but the answer for you may be different as you have a bit more motor and skill than i do. but if you dont mind, im going to ask, 'is your car really lacking in the brake area?'

 

Wouldn't aluminum weigh much less? Or carbon fiber?

 

David,

It's actually more a matter of balance. I wanted to try more front bias. I've got two combos to try: Blue Front / Black Rear and HT10 Front / Blue Rear. I just happen to be overbought on HT-10's. From what King and Hawk tell me I'll be able to find true, total and complete happiness somewhere in there.

Time will tell me if modulation becomes more of a problem. I've written a little about my right foot and how much money ABS has saved me. I think I'll be working on that to infinity regardless of pad compound.

Scott, who always feels the need for more braking.....especially when following 911's.....

 

We will know Scott has met his braking goals when he posts a picture of his smiling face with an "A" embossed on his forehead...

 

How are the prices for Pagid compared with Blues?

 

No clue on Pagid pricing.

 

Nice work! Will you make a set for me if I pay you?

 

Jonathan,

Thanks for the compliment. If they were better shots you could see how cobby they are.

I'm really not in a position with respect to time to make stuff for sale.

Scott, who would probably have more time if he wasn't addicted to H-T.....

 

Damn! I suppose it did hurt to ask though....


BPR - who has no time for anything these daze

 

I've got a good amount of experience with Pagids. They've been around for a long time. I think they still make most of the pads used in F1 and Le Mans. They are wickedly expensive ($200 an axle usually). All their compounds are very rotor friendly. My only big gripe with Pagids is that they wear quickly. One peculiar trait you should be aware of. The rotors will always feel warped with Pagids. They tend to leave compound on the rotor, and it grabs onto the compound, but it doesn't do it as smoothly as say a Hawk Blue does. Something impressive is that they never failed mechanically. No chunking, no coming off the backplate, no rivets, etc. I was using them with some Alcon calipers with pretty sizable pistons and no brake ducting.

Black - great aggressive street/auto-x compound. I also tried them once out at the track. Whoops. Never hinted of fading (that's impressive considering they were slowing down my 3500+ lbs S4 over and over), but they were gone after 2 days.

Orange - This is the common track compound you will find in BMW's and Porsches all over the place. Again, I used them on my S4. Effective temp range is very impressive. They are 90% there on the first stop. The only thing that prevents them from being a usable street compound is that they can be noisy.

There are other interesting compounds that Pagid has, but these are the 2 that I've used myself.

Warren

 

$200 per axel!!!!!! I guess I'll be sticking with blues.

 

Sorry to bring this thread out of the archives, but I figure I'd rather do this than make a new thread..But I may just make a new thread as well. We'll see how this goes first.

I'm getting ready to fabricate my own brake ducts, much like what I see before me...but the ducts would be made of fireproof fiberglass. What I was thinking of, is something like this (but with slightly different ducting):



No, that's not a honda, it's the passenger front of an FD RX-7. But I would use the same general idea. Depending on what I see when I start taking apart my knuckles on the CRX (ITR brake upgrade), I'll decide if I want to use a FG "dust shield" or an aluminum dust shield.

Anyone have any experience with making/using brake ducting? I'd like to hear your opinions.

 

i was undre the impression that dust sheilds actually trap heat

 

I hate to give up my pimpy converted turn signal cases...but I think this is a better solution. Scott, it's hard to tell...do they hang down low enough that a large off could rip them off? Or worse...move them around such that they hit something else, like a CV boot or some other drivetrain piece?

Without a duct running into them, that's certainly true. But this thing off the RX-7 would work rather well. Rather than spraying cool air in the general direction of the brakes like mine, this kind of thing lets the cool air fan out across the whole brake assembly.

Others on here have tried similar things (MaddMatt) with their OEM splash shields, with mixed results.

 

This is D's setup on a Type-R

http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html


[Modified by SJR, 12:59 PM 12/14/2001]

 

There are few options for getting air to the rotor eye. With stock type calipers or 4-pots mounted to a dogbone there is no place to route the air in front of the axle. RTR and people using the AP setup do have room and do something like that nice carbon item. In almost any case you will be reduced to one turn each way on the steering wheel due to interference in the cramped space.

D posted pictures of a setup that is sealed and ducted - the air enters the eye behind the axle - I don't know if he's finished it yet. You just about have to route your flex under the lower control arm to do it that way. I'm sure they've been "archived" by now.

Karl, at full bottom the inboard end of my diverters get pretty low, but I haven't had trouble in any of my off's so far - I'll admit that that part of my development program wasn't pursued with any real enthusiasm. I haven't thought alot about where they would wind up and what they would take out with them - I think they would be crushed under the control arm assembly and impale themselves on the bottom of the sway bar link.

Scott, who spends too much time lately thinking as if he's air........it's diffusing me.....hey, Karl, do you and the Skills Master ever occupy the same vicinity at the same time? one of you wear glasses? Is the imbibing of a strange colored fluid involved?...


[Modified by RR98ITR, 9:40 AM 12/14/2001]