I finished my swap yesterday. As you all know the prelude header is a little longer than the accord header, so I didn't have a catback installed on my car. Since it was so loud I only drove around the block. The car felt sluggish, but I was happy that the gears didn't grind. I got the exhaust installed today, and my car is ideling funny and something is preventing the flywheel to rev up. I also noted that the speedomoter and the odometer didn't work. The engine light got on, but I haven't checked it yet. It feels as if the ecu is put into a safe mode, in which it takes forever to get up to 50 mphs. I think I got issues with the knock sensor, or the timing, since the car is ideling funny, and preventing me from driving any faster than 20mph.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

is your check enginel ight on and if so what codes does it throw....onc eyou see that you should ahve some basic sttuff that should be obvious to fix then.

 

To check the engine code, would I follow the same proceedure as in the accord engine? You know connect two points and turn the ignition key to positition II?

Thanks,
Bjorn

 

bump for you doing work in this cold NE weather

jumping the ECU code is the same.

 

"jumping the ECU code is the same."

Thanks I'm gonna check the code first thing in the morning.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tang.fung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you sure you hookedup the vtec line correct and the knock sensor? i had this same problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

How did you car feel/drive? See I think it could be a knock sensor problem, but I know that it was installed correctly, unless the KNOCK isn't working right. As far as the vtec line I'm very sure it's connected, however, I heard that the vtec doesn't work if the speedomoter doesn't work, which is the case for me. I think it has something to do with the fact that the blue (RPM wire) by the distributor isn't hooked up. I heard that the blue wire has to be hooked up to the cluster...I don't remember if it was the tach or the speedomoter...Does anyone know?

Thanks for the help.

 

loose wires = BAD
extra wires = BAD

everything needs a home...

 

the blue wire on teh distributor is tach output signal.
the speedomoter is getting signal from the vss on the top of the differential.

 

OK I got these codes. 23, 41, 14 and 12.

Now I dont's have the prelude manual at the time, but I do have the accord manual and according to that manual these codes represent e.g. 23 = knock sensor circuit fault.

So my question, can the codes from the prelude be interpreted as if it was coming from an accord?

Thanks

 

12 is EGR

14 is IAC

23 is Knock sensor

41 is Heated O2 sensor

sounds like you need to switch your pin outs on the ecu for the ERG and O2 I think it is A16 and A6 or something like that someone will corrrect my pin outs if they are wrong

Accordhybrid

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by accordhybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">12 is EGR

14 is IAC

23 is Knock sensor

41 is Heated O2 sensor

sounds like you need to switch your pin outs on the ecu for the ERG and O2 I think it is A16 and A6 or something like that someone will corrrect my pin outs if they are wrong

Accordhybrid</TD></TR></TABLE>

you're spot on, but i think it's A11 and A6.

 

thanks guys I will try to switch the pins around.

I think the IAC is the main problem where. When the IAC is malfunctioning or not connected the car has problems with the ideling, which I do. My car is vibrating funny, and that could either cause the knocksensor to send a code, or the other way around; the engine is vibrating since the knock is working.

So you guys think that I might be able to fix the problem with the knocksensor and the EGR by switching the pins?

What about the heated O2 sensor, do you guys know why this signal is appearing?

Also, I'm using the F23 harness, and on the F23 the IAC is located behind the intake manifold, and two other sensors on the throttle. However I have a plug hanging/not plugged in, since the H22 only has the two sensors on the throttle, but I think I left the IAC plug hanging loose since I couldn't find it on the H22. I thought it would be one of those sensors that is on the OBD2 and not in OBD1. I'm obviously wrong, does anyone know where the IAC sensor/plug is?

Thanks a bunch.


Modified by -Bionic- at 2:32 AM 10/9/2003


Modified by -Bionic- at 2:33 AM 10/9/2003

 

ima a noob jumping in here but i was curious... whats the knock sensor and the heated o2 sensor... how do u know if ur car has heated o2 sensor or normal o2 sensor my wire harness has 4 wires but i loooked at the wiring diagram and one leads to injtor on leads to iac and the other io orget and ones signal... the thing i dont understand is how the 02 sensor gets power to be heated from being connected to the inject or iac .. anyone know about heated o2 sensors please help and i suuggest geting the book for the wiring problems u have with h22 motor it relly helps as far as getting to be familiar with what wire is what

 

I agree, and I have the manual. However, my friend who helped me out with the swap has the manual at the time, and I cannot get hold of him.

 

I didn't switch any pins around, but magically the EGR and the Knock sensor code disappeared. However, I still got the IAC and the Heated O2 sensor to deal with. My car is running much smoother, since the knock sensor code disappeared, but the IAC is still giving me ideling problems when the car is standing still.

Since I'm using the F23 harness, and the IAC plug has three wires, while the H22 plug has two, I choose the wire that had the best continuity, and the one that had battery voltage. Now, I don't know which is the ground and power on the H22 IAC sensor, so I tried to switch them around. In either case, I would hear a clicking noise, but once I started the engine I still had problems with the IAC.

What should I do next?

 

Anyone who did the H22 swap into a F23? How did you guys deal with the IAC wiring?

 

you need to switch pins a6 and a11 at the ECU.