Well, if you saw my last post, you know my problems. My compressor sticks too far out and its hitting the radiator. I borrowed a friends eg radiator and it will still hit.







So I flipped my turbo around and put the compressor on the drivers side. The only way this will work is with the compressor turned straight up. The problem now is that the WG is right next to the compressor outlet, and I will need a custom downpipe that I have no source for.






My options I am considering:

1) Lovefab shorty manifold and 3" downpipe to keep the compressor on the driver's side and have the wg placed towards the middle or the pass. side.
CON: flow?

2) SFP manifold and DP, same config as above.
CON: more expensive than lovefab, but I'm not 100% if it will work anyway

3) Somehow keep the drag manifold, get a custom WG dumptube made and a custom downpipe, but I have no idea who I could have do that.

Thanks for any input, I'm really confused as to what I need to do to get this to work right now.

 

Radiator Support? What the **** is that?



I decided to chop mine up to hell considering I was in the same situation you are in now. The top support is gone, howeve the bottom one is still there but I cut off the top part of the beam. The lower support actually acts as a small rectangular box that holds the fluidyne radiator now. I used stan-pro to cover the sharp cut edges and black caulking on the metal to give a rubber layer over the metal so the radiator does not rub against metal. The radiator fits MUCH better now and I have a lot more room to work with inside of the engine compartment. If you deside to do this, get hood locks since you will no longer be able to pop your hood open and closed.

Is the EG radiator a full or a half radiator? If its full, you might want to consider
running a half length fluidyne/C&R/Koyo/Griffin radiator with a nice slim-fit fan.

 

hehe, thats pretty cool. The EG rad is a half size, I already own a full length fluidyne that I was probably going to sell.

 

thats what i plan to do with my new fr mani. I might even tilt the rediator forward a bit.

 

the Lovefab will probally outflow your piece of **** Drag, in all honesty

the drag mani is junk.

i'd go that route, or the SFP cast...either one is better than what you have

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRswapandslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the Lovefab will probally outflow your piece of **** Drag, in all honesty

the drag mani is junk.

i'd go that route, or the SFP cast...either one is better than what you have </TD></TR></TABLE>

I appreciate the honesty

We'll see what kind of quotes I can get on the SFP.

 

anytime

i'm not the one to sugar coat, anything


the SFP cast is REALLLLY nice looking

 

did you ever trey to clock the turbo so the outlet is moved to where it is fit?

my freind put down over 320 whp with a drag mani on pump gas so if it is junk why does he do that kind of numbers?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Radiator Support? What the **** is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL, same here. My EG radiator just rests on the draincock on the crossmember and nothing else. That little draincock better not break!!!!

 

man wait till you guys get into a wreck.. its going to be messy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bottlefedb18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever trey to clock the turbo so the outlet is moved to where it is fit?

my freind put down over 320 whp with a drag mani on pump gas so if it is junk why does he do that kind of numbers?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I clocked that turbo all over the place. The only thing I havent looked at is when the compressor is on the pass side and it points straight up. I'll probably try that tomorrow.

 

what turbo are you running there?

i didnt have any problem with my drag mani on my 95 teg with a full rad

or if you want to save a few bucks move the rad away from the turbo so you can get going sooner and spend less cashola

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bottlefedb18c1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you ever trey to clock the turbo so the outlet is moved to where it is fit?

my freind put down over 320 whp with a drag mani on pump gas so if it is junk why does he do that kind of numbers?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I also put down 325 at 8 psi with a 57 trim and a shorty drag mani. Don't get me wrong I definately would have made some more power with a full-race, but the drag did good for what it was.

 

i put down over 400 on my drag and I know I could have hit 500.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IRVTECH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man wait till you guys get into a wreck.. its going to be messy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't think cutting away some of the rad support is going to do much. Or do you mean moving the rad forward and having it bust open in a wreck? It's ok though, I'll just dodge everything, I'm that good

 

the only way a drag mani is even tolerable in my eyes, is if you put some major porting work into it.

i have a friend putting down 375whp in an 2.0l LS...but his drag mani is ported to hell, and it's still holding him back. that's why hes switching

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRswapandslow &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only way a drag mani is even tolerable in my eyes, is if you put some major porting work into it.

i have a friend putting down 375whp in an 2.0l LS...but his drag mani is ported to hell, and it's still holding him back. that's why hes switching </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey aren't you the guy with the ghey(oops) bike

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IRVTECH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">man wait till you guys get into a wreck.. its going to be messy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know how thin the upper part of the radiator support is? The front bumper support beam is what saves your ***. If you are going fast enough to demolish your front bumper support beam, then your radiator support is not going to do that much to help absorb the impact.

As far as the drag kits go, the intercooler piping is just about the only thing useable in putting out over 400whp. Have any of you seen the drag gen 2 manifolds for the H series motors? They are absolutely pathetic. I believe the gen 4's are of much higher quality now. DRAG has quality parts, but you have to realize they are designed for a basic bolt-on turbo kit... not your 400+whp set-ups. Usually the intercoolers run around 22x6.5x2.25 in core size. For above 400whp its a good rule of thumb to have at least a core that measures 24x8x3".

 

Drag Manifolds aren't taht bad, it's just the positioning of the wastegate that sucks...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GudeH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Do you know how thin the upper part of the radiator support is? The front bumper support beam is what saves your ***. If you are going fast enough to demolish your front bumper support beam, then your radiator support is not going to do that much to help absorb the impact.

As far as the drag kits go, the intercooler piping is just about the only thing useable in putting out over 400whp. Have any of you seen the drag gen 2 manifolds for the H series motors? They are absolutely pathetic. I believe the gen 4's are of much higher quality now. DRAG has quality parts, but you have to realize they are designed for a basic bolt-on turbo kit... not your 400+whp set-ups. Usually the intercoolers run around 22x6.5x2.25 in core size. For above 400whp its a good rule of thumb to have at least a core that measures 24x8x3".

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like I said I made 400 on my drag 2 civic manifold and Im sure I could have got 500.

 

Hmmm, you could do as in the 1st pic and move the EG radiator over to the driver's side.

 

the drag mani will get you by till you get a nice equal length but it can do it for until then

and porting on the drag 2 is a ++

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by saso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Hey aren't you the guy with the ghey(oops) bike </TD></TR></TABLE>

huh?

 

Welcome to the world of turbocharging an EF.
I run my stock radiator with an SC32 with no clearance issues. Thanks only to the inlinepro manifold. GOod stuff


Rob

 

Thanks for all the replies guys, it helps ease my frustration. I think I'm going to get a new manifold and downpipe, which one is still up in the air. I'm also looking into a welder, so I may try and make my own. Right now Cody is looking good, but 6 weeks is a long time. I really wanted to run my car this year