Turbo 5ths- ?'s about tuning and J&S Ultra 2 settings
I posted this as a reply in another post, but there are the ?'s in here that I would like some help on....
Well,
It is runing okay at best. Even with Tim's burned ROM that was dyno tuned for 7 psi perfectly, I am getting knock on my J&S and it is retarding it big time. Especially around the 4500-5500 range- total bog/hesitation coupled with like 6-8 knock sensor buttons going off out of 10(which equals like 12-16 degrees retardation ON TOP of the 4 degrees already programmed in there over the entore range from stock on Tim's ROM. Car just doesn't go at all sometimes. So I am wondering, if it is really knocking, or if the J&S is tuned in wrong. Reason I think this is because I set my baseline FP to 50 psi today like Doug told me(50 when I cycle my ignition on- ~40 at idle) to set it too, and I am using Tim's maps for fuel and ignition that was tuned up to 7 psi already. So I doubt that the maps are the problem. He has a T3/T04b and I have a T3/T04e- he has a .48/.63 and I have a .50/.63. He told me to richen my mixture at 5000 up by 5% until I can get to the dyno and run it, so I will do that soon, but still I don't think that it should be knocking(or sensing so much knock all being considered).
Any tips would be helpful! Especially tips for tuning in the sensitivity of the J&S ultra unit to knock- what is a good indication of true knock verses oversensitive false signals? Thanks!
ALSO- I am getting overboosting with my Profec-B(hitting 7 psi with everything turned to min., and my WG spring is 5.8 psi). I am open to any comments users have with setting them in properly.
Finally- my boost gauge reads like 5-7 psi a short period after spool up starts, but there is no power gain at that moment. A few moments later, after more spooling noise, the power comes on. My ? is, shouldn't I be gaining power as boost builds, or does it just dump all the power out at the desired boost level(like 7 in my case with the way my Profec-B is set presently)?
I am getting mad hesitation and knock retardation from the J&S, so should I first turn the sensitivity way down on it before adding fuel? Also- what about setting the levers on the J&S??? I know #2 is up, and #5 & #6 are up, but what about the others???
#1= UP- 20 degrees knock retard control range
#1= DOWN- 10 degrees control range
* I have #1 down at present
#3 & #4 control the programmed RPM retard- what the hell does that mean? I thought it retarded by sensing knock, not by RPM? Here is what they put for the chart as to what combo's of them mean...
"0"= switch on J&S down
"1"= switch on J&S up
Switch #3 #4
------------------
0 0 = 2 degrees max
0 1 = 4 degrees max
1 0 = 6 degrees max
1 1 = 8 degrees max
Right now my settings are "0 - 0" = 2 degrees max. Degrees max what exactly? It will only retard 2 degrees? Or 2 degrees per xxx??? WTF does it mean? Anyway, I will turn my sensitivity down low and up richen my fuel tables by 5% in the boost range for now.
Any help on these J&S settings would be greatly appreciated. BTW Tim, I also changed your ignition tables so that there is 2 MORE degrees of timing advance between 2-5000 rpms on high & low because my J&S already takes out 2 degrees regardless. Does this make sense to you to do this so it is 4 degrees throughout?
Also I do not know the exact rpms that I make boost yet, as I do not have anything data logged yet.
Well,
It is runing okay at best. Even with Tim's burned ROM that was dyno tuned for 7 psi perfectly, I am getting knock on my J&S and it is retarding it big time. Especially around the 4500-5500 range- total bog/hesitation coupled with like 6-8 knock sensor buttons going off out of 10(which equals like 12-16 degrees retardation ON TOP of the 4 degrees already programmed in there over the entore range from stock on Tim's ROM. Car just doesn't go at all sometimes. So I am wondering, if it is really knocking, or if the J&S is tuned in wrong. Reason I think this is because I set my baseline FP to 50 psi today like Doug told me(50 when I cycle my ignition on- ~40 at idle) to set it too, and I am using Tim's maps for fuel and ignition that was tuned up to 7 psi already. So I doubt that the maps are the problem. He has a T3/T04b and I have a T3/T04e- he has a .48/.63 and I have a .50/.63. He told me to richen my mixture at 5000 up by 5% until I can get to the dyno and run it, so I will do that soon, but still I don't think that it should be knocking(or sensing so much knock all being considered).
Any tips would be helpful! Especially tips for tuning in the sensitivity of the J&S ultra unit to knock- what is a good indication of true knock verses oversensitive false signals? Thanks!
ALSO- I am getting overboosting with my Profec-B(hitting 7 psi with everything turned to min., and my WG spring is 5.8 psi). I am open to any comments users have with setting them in properly.
Finally- my boost gauge reads like 5-7 psi a short period after spool up starts, but there is no power gain at that moment. A few moments later, after more spooling noise, the power comes on. My ? is, shouldn't I be gaining power as boost builds, or does it just dump all the power out at the desired boost level(like 7 in my case with the way my Profec-B is set presently)?
I am getting mad hesitation and knock retardation from the J&S, so should I first turn the sensitivity way down on it before adding fuel? Also- what about setting the levers on the J&S??? I know #2 is up, and #5 & #6 are up, but what about the others???
#1= UP- 20 degrees knock retard control range
#1= DOWN- 10 degrees control range
* I have #1 down at present
#3 & #4 control the programmed RPM retard- what the hell does that mean? I thought it retarded by sensing knock, not by RPM? Here is what they put for the chart as to what combo's of them mean...
"0"= switch on J&S down
"1"= switch on J&S up
Switch #3 #4
------------------
0 0 = 2 degrees max
0 1 = 4 degrees max
1 0 = 6 degrees max
1 1 = 8 degrees max
Right now my settings are "0 - 0" = 2 degrees max. Degrees max what exactly? It will only retard 2 degrees? Or 2 degrees per xxx??? WTF does it mean? Anyway, I will turn my sensitivity down low and up richen my fuel tables by 5% in the boost range for now.
Any help on these J&S settings would be greatly appreciated. BTW Tim, I also changed your ignition tables so that there is 2 MORE degrees of timing advance between 2-5000 rpms on high & low because my J&S already takes out 2 degrees regardless. Does this make sense to you to do this so it is 4 degrees throughout?
Also I do not know the exact rpms that I make boost yet, as I do not have anything data logged yet.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



