Converting an auto trans CRX into a manual trans
if you were going to convert a auto trans crx into a manual trans, do you need a manual trans or do you just keep the auto trans, take out the torque converter and add a flywheel, clutch, clutch pedal? help here
thanx
thanx
You need to get a manual trans. The autos and manuals are very different and not just between the flywheel, torque converter.
*EDIT* So your going to need a manual tranny, the pedal set (all 3 pedals come together), and a manual ECU.
*EDIT* So your going to need a manual tranny, the pedal set (all 3 pedals come together), and a manual ECU.
Well yeah you can get a B16 and swap it in but your still going to have to do all the wiring for the auto to manual and then all the work (wiring, mounts, shift linkage) for the B16 swap. Do a search here https://honda-tech.com/zerosearch under the archives and the recent topics and I am sure most of your questions will be answered.
you'll need to do some cutting of your floor in order to accomodate the shift assembly. some firewall cutting as well for the clutch cable maybe and what not, all in all maybe a 6/10 on degree of PITA, depending how much of this kinda stuff you've done before
Auto to manual conversions are not fun....yet they are very do-able. Youll also need shift linkage, and yes you will be doing quite a bit of cutting to accomodate the manual parts. Sell your auto and buy a manual car.... j/k. It is the best bet though in the future just to buy a manual.
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I dont get either of your responses?? Lots of cutting?? Lots of work??!! The worst part of the swap for me was putting in the pedals otherwise it wasnt bad at all and the only cutting I did was on a seperate piece of metal to cover up the extra hole from the auto tranny. And the only drilling I had to do was 2 holes for the shift linkage. Otherwise there was already a hole for the clutch cable (perfect fit) and the shift linkage lined up perfect with the exception of me having to drill 2 holes for like I said the shift linkage to mount to. I even went the extra step and cut out the piece from a manual trannied car and put that up in there so I could use the inner shift boot. Oh and I welded in the 2 nuts for the shift linkage but these are steps that were unnecesary I just wanted it to look like stock though.
As for which car to buy either a manual one for $1800 or an automatic for $700.
Well what model is the manual one? I know that the auto one is a DX but what is the other one??
If its either an HF or an Si I would go with that one since there are bonuses to having either of them like the Si best options already has MPFI and the better motor. And if its an HF you have the lightest CRX for that year plus its lighter than the 90/91's and its also already MPFI so doing a swap on it would be easier but if you do a b-series swap you will have to change out the front hubs so you can use the b-series axles.
Now if they are both a DX thats kind of tough?? Which one is in better shape?? I mean if the $700 is in decent shape (not too much worse than the $1800 one) I would go with that one cause **** for $1100 bucks you could do the auto to manual swap and drop in a ZC and plus some add ons for that much plus most likely have money left in your pocket to start doing some body work if needed.
What you need to figure out is what do you want to do with the car? How much time and effort do you want to put into it? And also how much money you want to spend.
As for which car to buy either a manual one for $1800 or an automatic for $700.
Well what model is the manual one? I know that the auto one is a DX but what is the other one??
If its either an HF or an Si I would go with that one since there are bonuses to having either of them like the Si best options already has MPFI and the better motor. And if its an HF you have the lightest CRX for that year plus its lighter than the 90/91's and its also already MPFI so doing a swap on it would be easier but if you do a b-series swap you will have to change out the front hubs so you can use the b-series axles.
Now if they are both a DX thats kind of tough?? Which one is in better shape?? I mean if the $700 is in decent shape (not too much worse than the $1800 one) I would go with that one cause **** for $1100 bucks you could do the auto to manual swap and drop in a ZC and plus some add ons for that much plus most likely have money left in your pocket to start doing some body work if needed.
What you need to figure out is what do you want to do with the car? How much time and effort do you want to put into it? And also how much money you want to spend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vinceg99 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The worst part of the swap for me was putting in the pedals</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, I have done many auto to manuals swaps and it seems like you live pretty close by. If you have any more questions feel free to IM me.
Yep, I have done many auto to manuals swaps and it seems like you live pretty close by. If you have any more questions feel free to IM me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yep, I have done many auto to manuals swaps and it seems like you live pretty close by. If you have any more questions feel free to IM me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
naw..the only hard part was taking off the pedals..otherwise putting them on was fairly easy..i've done it before..was a biatch because of the steering collum..
Yep, I have done many auto to manuals swaps and it seems like you live pretty close by. If you have any more questions feel free to IM me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
naw..the only hard part was taking off the pedals..otherwise putting them on was fairly easy..i've done it before..was a biatch because of the steering collum..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sohc_vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
naw..the only hard part was taking off the pedals..otherwise putting them on was fairly easy..i've done it before..was a biatch because of the steering collum..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually your right, the hardest part was getting out the pedal.
naw..the only hard part was taking off the pedals..otherwise putting them on was fairly easy..i've done it before..was a biatch because of the steering collum..</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually your right, the hardest part was getting out the pedal.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually your right, the hardest part was getting out the pedal.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats what I was referring to also. The whole process of taking out the auto pedals AND putting in the manual ones. I was just trying to refer that the pedal assemblies would give him the most trouble.
Thats what I was referring to also. The whole process of taking out the auto pedals AND putting in the manual ones. I was just trying to refer that the pedal assemblies would give him the most trouble.
I dont get either of your responses?? Lots of cutting?? Lots of work??!! The worst part of the swap for me was putting in the pedals otherwise it wasnt bad at all and the only cutting I did was on a seperate piece of metal to cover up the extra hole from the auto tranny. And the only drilling I had to do was 2 holes for the shift linkage. Otherwise there was already a hole for the clutch cable (perfect fit) and the shift linkage lined up perfect with the exception of me having to drill 2 holes for like I said the shift linkage to mount to. I even went the extra step and cut out the piece from a manual trannied car and put that up in there so I could use the inner shift boot. Oh and I welded in the 2 nuts for the shift linkage but these are steps that were unnecesary I just wanted it to look like stock though.
As for which car to buy either a manual one for $1800 or an automatic for $700.
Well what model is the manual one? I know that the auto one is a DX but what is the other one??
If its either an HF or an Si I would go with that one since there are bonuses to having either of them like the Si best options already has MPFI and the better motor. And if its an HF you have the lightest CRX for that year plus its lighter than the 90/91's and its also already MPFI so doing a swap on it would be easier but if you do a b-series swap you will have to change out the front hubs so you can use the b-series axles.
Now if they are both a DX thats kind of tough?? Which one is in better shape?? I mean if the $700 is in decent shape (not too much worse than the $1800 one) I would go with that one cause **** for $1100 bucks you could do the auto to manual swap and drop in a ZC and plus some add ons for that much plus most likely have money left in your pocket to start doing some body work if needed.
What you need to figure out is what do you want to do with the car? How much time and effort do you want to put into it? And also how much money you want to spend.
As for which car to buy either a manual one for $1800 or an automatic for $700.
Well what model is the manual one? I know that the auto one is a DX but what is the other one??
If its either an HF or an Si I would go with that one since there are bonuses to having either of them like the Si best options already has MPFI and the better motor. And if its an HF you have the lightest CRX for that year plus its lighter than the 90/91's and its also already MPFI so doing a swap on it would be easier but if you do a b-series swap you will have to change out the front hubs so you can use the b-series axles.
Now if they are both a DX thats kind of tough?? Which one is in better shape?? I mean if the $700 is in decent shape (not too much worse than the $1800 one) I would go with that one cause **** for $1100 bucks you could do the auto to manual swap and drop in a ZC and plus some add ons for that much plus most likely have money left in your pocket to start doing some body work if needed.
What you need to figure out is what do you want to do with the car? How much time and effort do you want to put into it? And also how much money you want to spend.
I’ve never read anything about swapping hubs to do a b series swap. Admittedly I’m new here, but I’m fanatical about research.
I have a 91 auto Hf I'm working on manual swapping. I'm not sure if I want to go to b series just because I'm not real good with electrical. if I pop a b series in there with a 5 speed , does it basically just come down to changing the ecu and engine harness? will the in car fuse box/and interior wiring work ??? and will the b series hubs bolt directly to the stock hf suspension system or will I need different control arms/etc?
-From the link below. I wonder if you could just press out the old HF/STD hubs and press in some new ones that would fit a dx/ex/si?
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i hear rumor an auto ecu will work for 5 speed but not the other way around
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