11.5cr with a 80 direct port shot on 92 octane..?
The 80direct port big shot kit (wet) would look good with your compression. Just jet the fuel rich.
I used the Big Shot kit on my hatch for a summer or so and loved it. I was 11.0:1 compression.
Modified by BlueHatch00 at 4:49 AM 9/17/2003
I used the Big Shot kit on my hatch for a summer or so and loved it. I was 11.0:1 compression.
Modified by BlueHatch00 at 4:49 AM 9/17/2003
Most chipped ECU's especailly the Mugen like to advance timing quite a bit. Not exactly the best thing for nitrous. I'd jet it pretty rich, pull about 2 degrees and atleast tune with AFC if not Hondata w/ Nitrous control.
cant use hondata....no dealers here and hondata only works for up to a 50 dry shot doesnt it?but yeah i'd be running 370cc injectors and tuning it with a vafc with my wideband and pulling timing with the digital 6+..so 2degrees is all i should pull?
I believe there is a general rule of thumb for 1-2 degrees per 50 shot. So 2-3 degrees should be plenty. With 11.5:1 maybe a little more to be safe and then add later. Jet it rich, pull 3 degrees, fine tune with SAFC and then adjust accordingly. I have not heard there was a limit on the Hondata Nitrous Control.
Just wondering, why are you using a dry shot? Most people are going wet. Is there an advantage with the dry shot and higher compression? I plan on builing up a motor to run a 100 shot wet, but haven't researched much on the spray yet, just what I gotta do to the motor to handle it.
Chris
Chris
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more even fuel ditribution with dry shot. wet shot's tend to pool fuel in the first two cylinders in line with air flow through the intake manifold regardless of what car it is. On high compression it is paramount that fuel is being evenely distributed via higher fuel pressure on a dry shot or if you do go with a wet shot make sure it is direct port. 80 shot on a 11.5 to one would be fine. I would run colder plugs when you know your going to use nitrous, set timing at 12 btdc for the nitrous run or use a boost dependent retard like MSD, and tune overlap out of the cams so you effectively burn all of the nitrous before the exhaust valve begins to open.
dude every body seem to forget about the fuel octane wich is very important use the higher fuel octane cause of your compression and plus nitrious you should use at least 100 octane or 103 wich is pretty expensive but is better be safe than sorry use a highier octane to prevent detonation
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how safe would this be??would be using a msd digital 6+ to retard timing during spray..and possibly a chipped ecu like a mugen
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Compresion is fine do not spray it unless you are using c16 if you want to be safe, but no less than 112, do not use a chiped ecu, at wot who knows the advance a msd digiatl will not compensate if timming is to far off with chipped ecu. I used to run a 80 shot with 10.8 compression gsr, stock injectors base timming at 15 degrees with a stock pr3 ecu raised revlimit, timming was left alone. Do not do it on 92 octane do not do it with a chiped ecu, you will burn a valve , or a piston, while poping your head gasket. Good luck Jason
</TD></TR></TABLE>Compresion is fine do not spray it unless you are using c16 if you want to be safe, but no less than 112, do not use a chiped ecu, at wot who knows the advance a msd digiatl will not compensate if timming is to far off with chipped ecu. I used to run a 80 shot with 10.8 compression gsr, stock injectors base timming at 15 degrees with a stock pr3 ecu raised revlimit, timming was left alone. Do not do it on 92 octane do not do it with a chiped ecu, you will burn a valve , or a piston, while poping your head gasket. Good luck Jason
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapTendencies »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just wondering, why are you using a dry shot? Most people are going wet. Is there an advantage with the dry shot and higher compression? I plan on builing up a motor to run a 100 shot wet, but haven't researched much on the spray yet, just what I gotta do to the motor to handle it.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not using a dry shot i'm using a direct port wet shot
damn all these conflicting answers
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not using a dry shot i'm using a direct port wet shot
damn all these conflicting answers
whoa deja vu
i could swear i read a thread like this that was older
and same exact responses....but then i looked at the date
i could swear i read a thread like this that was older
and same exact responses....but then i looked at the date
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GOLDBERG »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how safe would this be??would be using a msd digital 6+ to retard timing during spray..and possibly a chipped ecu like a mugen
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91 octane + mugen PR4 ecu + PR3 pistons + 75 dry shot = roasted piston.
I'd have recommend against it at this point in my life. Maybe if my buddy can pull it off my perspective will change.
I'd have recommend against it at this point in my life. Maybe if my buddy can pull it off my perspective will change.
First things first this should be posted in forced induction and i wouldn't use 92 octane. use 114 or higher and use a cold plug like a ngk 8 or 9 mugen program will be fine. Also have lots of fun when you hit the unit. Your car will bone out like a screaming nut case down the street. It should be very quick!!
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