hey all i just completed my d16z6 minime head swap, and it's running well! but i know my timeing is off. it doesn't hesitate or bog or stall at idle or when driving. but when i let off the gas and get back on the pedal i hear like a preignition clack noise. i was wondering if my timing is + a fiew degries or - a fiew degrees. or if it could even be something else

 

find a timing light and check

 

That's what i was thinking but i was just wondering first

 

ok, i have a mini-me swap and i know that the timing light will not tell u the right ingormation. i adjusted my timing so that using the gun i can see the arrow right between the 2 marks on the crank, exactly where it's supposed to be. but the car was slow, didnt wanna move and stalled a few times. i just advanced my timing, turn the dist towards the firewall, as far as i could and the car got faster and idle is more where it's supposed to be. i have the dist bolted using only the top bolt and the hole in the dist is drilled a little to fit the bolt. the hole itself is a little longer as the result though and i think i'll need to drill to make it even longer to advance the timing even more.

 

that's exactly how i have mine set up, and i too still have to drill or grind out the hole some more so i can advance it some more. when we finished the swap, we just threw the dist on and turned it as far advanced as we could before it got stuck on a spot i didn't grind down far enough. it runs great but i know the timeing is off. what should the stock idle be my fields sfc vtec controller says at full running temp is low it's about 700rpms. but when i first start before the ecu goes to closed loop it's around 1300rpms. i posted pics on my web page too

 

when u put the new t-belt on what marks did u go by? on my head there were 3 marks on the cam pulley: 2 at 180deg and one at an angle to those 2 on the left bottom. there is also an arrow on head that seems to have to line up w/ that 3rd mark. but if i line it up, then the 2 marks on the top are not parallel to the head. the first time i put the t-belt on i went my the 3rd mark and i kept dieing wheneve i let go of gas. but when i readjust the tbelt using just the 2 marks and having them as parallel to the head as possible, the problem went away.

 

timign blah blha, nismo, make sure u fill up with atleast 91 octane, but about your sr20det that i am mroe interested in, do u road race that car, do u have a 1/4 time, and how hard was it to do teh swap...

 

my nissan huh?.. the install is simple, the only thing that gives you problems is the battery. there is a lot of support for this swap. and many parts are interchangable. but to the digits. my car 90 nissan 240sx se fastback. running a red top sr20det 205hp stock. w/ greddy front mount intercooler, ACT clutch, HKS Super sequential BOV, Blitz Dual solenoid Boost controller, apex n1 catback, greddy down pipe...... and so on....... i'm running 18psi of boost on the stock turbo, pushing about 300hp to the wheels w/ intec Reprogrammed ecu. 1/4mile time of 13.1 . that's completely street drivable. w/ full interior. i drive my honda more than my nissan