ill be going up to MIR friday night for midnight madness and this will be the first time i will run my new hatchback since i got done with it.. ive been to the track with my old ex coupe but now i have more work done to the motor and car is lighter..

here is my setup..
94 civic si hatch (fat piggy ), possibly no back seats and nothing in hatch!
98 b18c1 converted to obd1
skunk2 IM, AEM CAI,
DC sports header, apexi N1 catback
VAFC (which i hope can be tuned a little before i go to the track)
55 shot using a ZEX kit, possibly 75shot if i find the jets..
jimfab tourqe mounts
Kenji ITR-spec chipped p28 ecu

i know i can and im hoping to get atleast a high 13sec run i always have a problem getting traction it seems when i ran my old car.. but it was a stock b18c1 :-(

im probably gonna barrow a pair of slicks that a friend took off a guys car a couple weeks ago.. if i do get the slicks, how much PSI should i have in the front tires? in my old car i have BFG comp ta-zr4 and i lowered it down to about 20 psi.. if i dont get the slicks i will be using my 16 rota c8 wheels with bridgestone (forget what there called, there w rated tires, not the best but they were free) does 20 psi sound good for them??

also need some tips from some people that use a bottle at the track, when should i turn on the switch?? i know i cant do it in first gear or i will just spin all the way down the track..

i ran the car open header to get the exhaust fixed when i was doing the swap, it is good to do this?? i noticed the car was a lot quicker, is this allowed or needed at a track???

any more advice will be nice, im not a noobie and been to the track before with several friends that race and i do all the work myself, i would just like to get some advice from people taht do it more often cause i rarely get to go..


Modified by Hybrid95CivicEX at 2:48 AM 9/4/2003

 

i hate these topics but yours is a little different than most. anyways, the only way you will know how it really works is trial and error, each setup is different, esp for tire pressures. i would say try the nitrous in 1st but be careful, if you start to liquidate the tires GET OF THE N20, your car has a rev limiter which cuts gas flow through the injectors, which means when you hit the limiter in nitrous you just keep going.

an open downpipe will help in the end, less low end torque(safer launches) but much more high end horse power, it may not be legal since its venting right under the cabin and all the fumes are going right inside and thats not good when they require you to have closed windows.

practice launching before you go expiriment with clutch slipping and rpms, what are you revving to? i think the skunk2 manni was a good choice if your revving to stock limits.

and for full race slicks, you should start high(like 15psi) and gradually drop it down, most settle at like 9-11 psi. if your having torque steer drop the pressure on the opposite tire that the car is pulling to(i think) ie pulls right drop the left pressure

 

any other advice??? back to the top....

 

well my good friend with a b18c1 ran a 14.3 in a 92 si hatch with just skunk2 IM and exhaust...this is with stock airbox, **** all seasons, a **** 60ft time...if you have all that **** AND a 55 shot...anything slower than a low 13 should be a huge disappointment

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid95CivicEX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
also need some tips from some people that use a bottle at the track, when should i turn on the switch?? i know i cant do it in first gear or i will just spin all the way down the track..

i ran the car open header to get the exhaust fixed when i was doing the swap, it is good to do this?? i noticed the car was a lot quicker, is this allowed or needed at a track???


Modified by Hybrid95CivicEX at 2:48 AM 9/4/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

well, first of all, im going with you all just in case you didnt hear from anyone else. second, dammit, if your getting some slicks hook a brotha up. but anyways, with the slicks you should be able to spray off the line or at least flip the switch as soon as you take off. running an open header will probably have it's gains but you wont have the scavenging effect with it, which will actually hurt you. but it's your call, i also heard that you could possibly burn a valve doing that as well. and if you can't get the slciks, get some stock steelies with any tire and lower the pressure, your low profile tires have such a stiff sidewall that you could take it down to 15 psi and not notice a difference hooking up.

 

my buddy had a 95 cx and ran a 14.1 and his was bone stock just i/e