mushy brakes after new pads and rotor - corolla
so after snapping off a wheel stud and stripping another one on the other side, the brakes are mushy. we bled them in this order, left reat, right rear, right front, left front. is this the right order for a corolla? the mc looks like it has two reservoirs. i've had this problem before and it was a sticky caliper pin last time. we lubed it up, bled the brakes, worked great.
so this time we got a new caliper slide pin and installed it, to no avail. anyone else have this problem? need some help.
i searched but didn't help much.
so this time we got a new caliper slide pin and installed it, to no avail. anyone else have this problem? need some help.
i searched but didn't help much.
If you can't find the bleeding order specifically for that year Corolla, I'd go RR > LF > LR > RF. But I think the biggest problem with doing the wrong order is that you just have to go around a couple more times before all the bubbles are gone.
If the reservoir is divided into 2 sections, make sure you don't let one of them go empty while you're bleeding...
If the reservoir is divided into 2 sections, make sure you don't let one of them go empty while you're bleeding...
we made sure to top it off everytime as to not let it run dry.
and there are no leaks or anything. i guess we'll have to try to bleed it again.
if there is no air in the braking system, when you step on the brakes, should the front calipers move on the sliders? we stepped on it, and they don't.
and there are no leaks or anything. i guess we'll have to try to bleed it again.
if there is no air in the braking system, when you step on the brakes, should the front calipers move on the sliders? we stepped on it, and they don't.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tominos »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... if there is no air in the braking system, when you step on the brakes, should the front calipers move on the sliders? we stepped on it, and they don't.</TD></TR></TABLE>The movement is really small & hard to see. I take it they're 1-piston calipers since they even have sliders? Pry under the outboard clamp-like part of the caliper. That'll compress the piston, slide the caliper, & make the outboard pad real loose. Then when you step on the brakes you should see the motion.
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Tap on all the calipers with a plastic hammer. Sometimes air bubbles get stuck and need a little pursuasion. Does that car have drums or discs on back? With drums, a stuck or improperly adjusted e-brake cable can cause spongy brakes. Check all the hardware on the rear brakes, they are often the source of soft brakes. Master cylinder could also be bad.
Are they cheapy brake pads? Pads can make a big difference in how the pedal feels. If they are new pads, this could be the difference.
these are raybestos pads. have had them laying around for a while, so i just put them on. new rotors, pads.
i have tapped on the caliper while bleeding, and this helped. i saw some air come out. but thing is, brakes are still spongy. pedal sinks to floor, and you can't lock up the brakes, when i went for a test drive.
the rear brakes haven't been touched, hmm, the brakes were fine before i changed the pads and rotor. and now i have to deal with three snapped, stripped wheel studs.
why's things gotta be so hard with corollas,
thanks for the replies, keep em coming.
i have tapped on the caliper while bleeding, and this helped. i saw some air come out. but thing is, brakes are still spongy. pedal sinks to floor, and you can't lock up the brakes, when i went for a test drive.
the rear brakes haven't been touched, hmm, the brakes were fine before i changed the pads and rotor. and now i have to deal with three snapped, stripped wheel studs.
why's things gotta be so hard with corollas,
thanks for the replies, keep em coming.
Like I said, I don't really know Corollas, but I've had other cars where you bleed about half a cup & it looks like all the bubbles are gone. Then you keep bleeding, maybe almost a pint from each corner, and more bubbles finally come out.
Next time, try using anti-seize on the wheelstuds. If the pedal sinks to the floor, there's a leak in the system somewhere.
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