my motor has been acting weird.
if i try to hold constant revs say at 4,000 rpms the revs will flutter, it will drop about 200-400 rpms.
also my tps acts weird. it fluctuates on the vafc by about -+10.0 while cruising at the same amount of throttle. i even got a new tps and it does the same thing. i set the tps with the vafc and the key to the on position and set it to .45 and 4.5, but when i crank the car the voltage goes to .30 and 4.6. the throttle never reads 100% when the car is running as well at it still fluctuates.
car also hesitates when i first crank it up. i can push the gas to the floor and it doesnt do anything then it will come back to life.

 

Ck your connections on the VAFC.

Are they solid?

 

they are soldered. so think they are good.
but i guess i will have to check them all again.
i put an obd1 ecu in the car and it seems to make the tps a little steadier but it hesitates when i give part throttle to accelerate. it seems it hesitates when the tps reading gets very steady and then it goes back to normal accel when the tps reads crazy. with the obd2 ecu tps fluctuates all the time but there is no hesitation when accel

 

How many miles do you have on your car? Do you think youll need an idle adjustment? Or clean your injectors? Sorry im not much of a help bro...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Disco Monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they are soldered. so think they are good.
but i guess i will have to check them all again.
i put an obd1 ecu in the car and it seems to make the tps a little steadier but it hesitates when i give part throttle to accelerate. it seems it hesitates when the tps reading gets very steady and then it goes back to normal accel when the tps reads crazy. with the obd2 ecu tps fluctuates all the time but there is no hesitation when accel</TD></TR></TABLE>

I would check them again. Soldered or not sometimes you get what's called a "COLD SOLDER JOINT" this will sometimes allow corrosion to form betwee the contact points and create an open in the circuit. Look at the Solder and if it is dull and gray then this MAY be the problem. Alot of the solder contains highly corrosive FLUX (an agent that helps with heat transfer) if not cleaned properly after the soldering is completed this may alos cause unwanted problems.

When ever you solder use a wire brush and some alcohol to clean the work area. TRY to remve as much of the redish brown residue (corrosive stuff) as possible. Solder joint should look Shiny. I am not sure if you did the work or not. Even some "professionails" will not be as maticulous as they should. Good thing to do if you fine any dull joints re solder them. Tin the wires (apply a thin coat of solder to each side of the joint) then intertwine them as mush as possible and apply more solder. But ONLY enough to put them together. Large GLOBS of Solder aren't good either. They are also prone to go cold. The rule that the bigger the BLOB the better the JOB doesn't apply here.
Now if there are no noticeable signs of a problem (ie Burnt or damaged insulating (the plastic covering to the wires), Cold solder joints, broken wires, crossed Wires (exposed conductors from different wires touching), Teeth marks from chewing, anything like that...
HEY, don't laugh I had a friend that stored his car for a few months and a family of mice took up residence in his car. They chewed through some wires and it took him MONTHS to get rid of all the problems
Aside from that... Check your distributor Module. I don't know how many miles on the car but these things almost never go bad but when they do it's hell ( I had a bad Module once and the car ran very rich and the IDel was irratic and couldn't be stedied.
Hope thins helps a little good lick finding the problem

 

car has 130,000+ miles
i have replaced fuel filter, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor and ignitor. i will recheck all the vafc connections.
idles right at 750 so i think thats ok.

 

help

 

i just ditched my VAFC for the same reasons you described.

My TPS voltage was all over the muthafucka, MAP voltage was also giving me issues ... i had checked all connections, and cleaned most engine and chasis grounds. no luck. i got annoyed and bought a PFC. MAP and TPS are correct now, no issues whatsoever. I believe Trey experienced some of the same symptoms that you've described. I unfortunatly, have no simple solution for you.

D

 

whats wrong chip? I think your motor is just scared. The red top godzirra is coming! see if I can beat your 9.0 flat pulls.

 

at least my 9.0's were all motor...

 

I have heard that VAFC had some glitch in it and that the New VAFC fixed the bugs. I know my Civic acted funny a few times but nothing like you're describing.