Well, I took my car to the dyno today, and was pretty disappointed with the numbers i am putting down

The mods I have on my car include:
B16a w/ Y1 tranny
CAI
Header-back Exhaust
GSR Cams
Skunk 2 intake manifold
STR 65mm Throttle body
STR Fuel Rail
Aeromotive Adjustable FPR.
NGK Laser Platinum Plugs
Taylor 8mm plug wires

Apex'i VAFC - on order


They ran the dyno run in 3rd gear, I had the fuel pressure set at 46 PSI on the 2nd run and 44 on the 3rd run

according to the air/fuel reading, the car was running rich all across the board and some points off the charts

What could be the cause of the low HP # and the richness?

Any help would be great

BTW: Ignore the first dyno run, the operator did not run the car to redline

 

hmm somthings wrong with your setup :looksintocrystalball:

 

why are you reving to only 7.5k?

 

well your only goin to 7.5k is that where your ecu cuts?? you mighthave a auto ecu, hmmm i dont know.

 

That definitely is a auto ecu you are using, hence the vtec x-over at 4400 and 7500 redline. Get that thing chipped with either a MT program or a tuned program. and you will see much improvement. Also make sure you have the O2's fully functional.

 

The car is running to rich, and he's right you seem to have an auto ecu. Pull the ecu covers off, and there will be a second small circut board, that will have a big AT or MT. With an MT ecu you should redline at 8300.
With the richness issue you seemed to loose just a bit of power when you went down in fuel pressure. I think your header might be holding you back some. You have good air intake mods, and good exhaust flow mods, time for a header and fuel tuning. BTW I have seen 4 or 5 b16a dynos and the hp #'s were about the same, tq was always around 111 or so though. This was all at higher elevation though

 

Well i know for a fact that i have an auto ECU, but will the MT ecu really make that much of a difference?

if i set my fuel pressure lower, do you think that will help, someone told me to try to set it at around 42 psi

Where can I get a MT ecu?

 

Wanna sell the auto ecu?

Ben

 

there was instructions posted here before on modifying that ecu to be manual.

however i dont think that is your problem,

the gsr cams really dont do anything for performance unless your FI

the obvious problem is the skunk2 manifold and throttlebody when your not moving enough air, to warrant those mods. get your vafc in, get some cam gears and modify your ecu and disconnect your cat on the dyno i bet you will gain about 15hp

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was instructions posted here before on modifying that ecu to be manual.

however i dont think that is your problem,

the gsr cams really dont do anything for performance unless your FI

the obvious problem is the skunk2 manifold and throttlebody when your not moving enough air, to warrant those mods. get your vafc in, get some cam gears and modify your ecu and disconnect your cat on the dyno i bet you will gain about 15hp</TD></TR></TABLE>

All of what he said, take the skunk2 manifold off if you're not going to be buying higher revving springs and retainers, it's making you lose power when only revving out to 7500.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">there was instructions posted here before on modifying that ecu to be manual.

however i dont think that is your problem,

the gsr cams really dont do anything for performance unless your FI

the obvious problem is the skunk2 manifold and throttlebody when your not moving enough air, to warrant those mods. get your vafc in, get some cam gears and modify your ecu and disconnect your cat on the dyno i bet you will gain about 15hp</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well the GSR cams made a noticible difference over the automatic B16a cams my motor had, the skunk 2 intake manifold also made a large difference after i installed it, however the throttle body didn't make much difference except for throttle response, and i don't have a cat on my car...

I set my fuel pressure to 42 PSi this morning and reset my ECU and the car seems to run a little stronger

 

the auto ecu provides the right air/fuel curve for the auto cams, and makes the rev limit lower, obviously the mt ecu will have a stronger fuel curve and be more aggresive BUT if you have a vafc, install it and have the people that run your car on the dyno set it up for you, with your auti ecu you might acctually get impressive gains with the vafc, just make sure they know what they are doin and have done it before.

 

if i were to purchase a MT ecu, will i have any problems with reving too high for the valve springs to handle?

 

Your valvetrain will be fine. Get it chipped.

 

whats a good price to pay for a MT ecu? can i use others besides a PR3?

 

Its the ecu...don't buy a new one just get it chipped.

try adrian at http://www.hyperducktuning.com he's a member on this board.

 

Is there any place in florida where i can chip the car?

I don't really have much time to have the car chipped, as i move up to school in less than a week

Is there any place in south florida where i can buy a MT ecu?

 

If you buy a MT ecu I will buy the AT one. Ogle6@hotmail.com

Ben

 

you can modify the ecu on your own without buying a manual want if you want to raise the redline.

 

how do i do that?

 

do a search its been covered, it has something to do with taking the cover off then looking at the board there is a jumper you move it to a diffrent pin and boom your ecu works like a manual ecu, i personally have not done it, but i have seen it posted on here in the last 6 months.