Has anyone does this before? It's when you remove the radiator fluid lines from the throttle body and connect them together to avoid the air heating up.

 

Yes, it's as simple as that. It's nothing you would notice but it all adds up if you do other heat reducing mods as well.
Some people remove the coolant to the fast idle thermo valve as well.

 

thanks for the info.

 

So, I got to looking at my 96 civic ex... the coolant line comes from the main feed and goes to the TB, and then leaves the TB and goes a little to the right to this other thing - Is that the fast idle thermo valve? and that line goes underneath the intake manifold - I couldn't trace it very well as the engine was nice and hot... but, its gotta end up somewhere around there.

So, I could just find the beginning line off the main feed and hook that up to where it feeds back into the main line, right? what about the lines on the TB and thermo valve? Do people leave the lines off? Or just put a line going from the TB back to the TB? so, as to prevent dust/dirt/etc?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, it's as simple as that. It's nothing you would notice but it all adds up if you do other heat reducing mods as well.
Some people remove the coolant to the fast idle thermo valve as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Yeah I'm not sure how to do this either...pics would be great....I've seen DIY for b series and I just can't figure it out for my D series

 

I don't have a digicam, do you guys have a pic of your tb I could edit? I'm presuming it's the same as mine.
You can either just unplug the TB coolant lines and join them together or you can do a complete bypass an take the FITV out as well.

 

I figured I'd bypass them both... I can easily see all connections from the main line -&gt; tb -&gt; tb -&gt; FITV -&gt; ???? I cant see where the last connection is... it runs somewhere under the intake manifold. I'm about to just pickup a couple feet of hose (is it a standard size?) and a handful of plugs (again, is there a standard size?) and just wait til the motor is cool and try to fanagle that thing in there... i can take pics whenever i tackle the job... or i'll take pics later if i can remember.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't have a digicam, do you guys have a pic of your tb I could edit? I'm presuming it's the same as mine.
You can either just unplug the TB coolant lines and join them together or you can do a complete bypass an take the FITV out as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well, i hit napa and picked up 3' of 5/16" heater hose... Im hoping thats what size it is. It looked like the right size... I also picked up a pack of 5/16" vacuum plugs. I went out to the civic to trace down where the line from the FITV goes back to... and its way back towards the engine block... and its kind of an awkward place to reach... especially with my broken hand... it looks to be easier if i could get underneath the car, but, i dont have anyway to do that here... so, i just threw the stuff in the trunk and i'll deal with it later.

 

Ok... so im thinking...

Why even buy the hose?? Why not just buy 6 plugs and plug everything off?

Rather than having this hose that just drapes in the engine bay, why not just stick a plug on each end and some type of clamp and voila.

this will clean up the engine bay a bit too

dangit... my pack of plugs only has 5 in there... i need one more... doh!

 

Because you still need coolant to flow through the idle air control valve or else it won't idle.

 

I'm not sure if we're understanding each other...

People are bypassing the coolant lines to both sides of the throttle body, and capping the throttle body connections... and then some people bypass the lines to the fast idle thermo valve and then cap off the connections on the FITV as well... so, essentially, there would be a coolant line going from the main line (whatever its called), back to itself, just like 18-20" down on the main feed. so, why not just cap off both those connections as well and eliminate the line... unless im missing something... ??


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Because you still need coolant to flow through the idle air control valve or else it won't idle.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Ive had it done when I first did my Y8 mani swap...when the car is cold the idle jumps up and down like 200-300 rpms...did'nt notice a damn thing other than that.

 

jeez, this sounds really complicated now for something that you won't even gain power from.

 

i'm getting what you are saying but pics would be really nice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by supadupamikey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not sure if we're understanding each other...

People are bypassing the coolant lines to both sides of the throttle body, and capping the throttle body connections... and then some people bypass the lines to the fast idle thermo valve and then cap off the connections on the FITV as well... so, essentially, there would be a coolant line going from the main line (whatever its called), back to itself, just like 18-20" down on the main feed. so, why not just cap off both those connections as well and eliminate the line... unless im missing something... ??
</TD></TR></TABLE>

You need at least two coolant lines running through the engine bay if you are keeping the IACV, one running from the spigot on the head to the IACV and one running from the IACV to the spigot on the steel pipe which leads to the water pump.
If you are eliminating the IACV as well as the FITV then you can cap off everything but you still need a hose running from the spigot on the steel pipe to the nipple on the intake manifold in order for the coolant to circulate properly.

Thats with a B16 anyway, haven't worked on a D series personally so don't know if it's the same.

Tee hee, I said nipple

 

its not really worth doing, i have this mod done as well and didn't feel any change. the only thing that changed is that the car takes longer to warm up now.

 

i've got nipples focker... can you milk me??

ok... i see what you're saying...

damn... i wish i had a set of shop manuals (for this car anyways)... so, i could "see" everything


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Xsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

You need at least two coolant lines running through the engine bay if you are keeping the IACV, one running from the spigot on the head to the IACV and one running from the IACV to the spigot on the steel pipe which leads to the water pump.
If you are eliminating the IACV as well as the FITV then you can cap off everything but you still need a hose running from the spigot on the steel pipe to the nipple on the intake manifold in order for the coolant to circulate properly.

Thats with a B16 anyway, haven't worked on a D series personally so don't know if it's the same.

Tee hee, I said nipple</TD></TR></TABLE>