OK OK OK... I know.. Sleeve w/forged Pistons. I've been thinking though, my block is pretty much already done. 110,000, Changing my gas and filling up with oil.. etc.

Ok, so here's my idea. I'll be a "test0r" and risk it, but if I go with the Wiseco pistons, 11:1 or 11.5:1, besides needing good tuning, would a block guard be a good idea? If that's not the right name, I mean the part used to support the top of the open deck factory sleeves. Also, would the Type S rods be a decent compromise.. or are they too close to stock in construction/strength to the USDM, in which case I'd shoot for the Crower EconoBillet for the lower weight over the thicker other rods.

Just trying to work up what to do this fall in the down time. I'm thinking I'll stay NA and if anything for the 1/4 do a small shot of nitrous. Turbo'ing I believe is out of my future for now until my GF graduates, so I can use this car for SCCA and not be placed in a higher class than need be.

 

I'm not a big fan of the whole OEM replacement deal when it comes to building a motor for more power. Fork out the extra bucks and buy something you know that can take the power and then some.

I assume you have an open deck motor since you are asking about a block guard. Just to make sure though, what year motor do you have and how much power are you looking at putting out? I would recommend putting the money that you are looking at spending on a blockguard and purchase a hondata s200. Then, make sure you have large enough injectors, if you have the 345cc vtec ones then you should be fine. Make sure you buy new bearings, seals, gaskets, etc.

Have fun being the guinea pig.

 

It's a 97 5th gen Base. I'm going to get a Hondata (I had a P72 I sold to H22Accord on here, so I'll have to find another )

I was planning on going with the Crower Econo's, but was just asking that question more out of curiousity. A FPR would be added and the pistons swapped to the Wiseco 11:1 most likely (possibly the 11.5:1.. not sure yet). Eventually I'd add in the Skunk2 Stage II cams and redo the valve train setup. The part I'm worried about now is the piston setup.

Also, the block guard idea falls into the "i'd rather be safe than sorry" catagory, which is where the idea of going only 11:1 falls too. Anyhow, I hope that helps with helping me figure out!

 

if your going to try it anyways find the wiseco pistons that are suppose to work with the fmr sleeves. If they work in yours then it could be a cost effective way to get upgraded pistons with out having to sleeve the block.


Also if anyone knows the part number for these post it or pm' it to me

 

i wouldn't think you even need a block guard for all motor, i guess it can't hurt, you have an open deck h22 right??

 

he is planning on running a small shot. that is what the block gueard would be for i would think.

 

I'm running open deck sleeves all motor...

But seriously I don't know why you would bother trying...do the math

Add up the cost of bore+hone+block guard and compare it with a darton closed deck T sleeve...it's probably close..do it right once I say

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by satan_srv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm running open deck sleeves all motor...

But seriously I don't know why you would bother trying...do the math

Add up the cost of bore+hone+block guard and compare it with a darton closed deck T sleeve...it's probably close..do it right once I say</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea, i agree, set some sleeves in and never worry about it again, plus, i hear that block gaurds aften warp the cylinder and eat the rings anyway

 

Ok I think i'm going to compile a list of things I'll look to getting this fall. I'll post it to be rediculed and improved... BTW&gt; Are the open deck sleeves you're talking about OEM... or did you actually find some open deck aftermarket sleeves, and if so, how much and where from... cost vs closed, etc. I wouldn't mind staying open deck for the added cooling benefit as long as everything is going to stay straight