when installing new pistons/rods do they need to be balanced?
i'm asking because i'm planning a rebuild w/ je pistons and crower rods but was wondering if the tolerances were very close...
thanks vaportrail,well after making some phone calls and seeing what a dent all the materials are going to cost ive deciced to go w/ EAGLE rods instead. not a bad compromise.
my concern is the balancing of these components,has anyone in here dropped some rods/pistons in w/ out having them balanced?
im basicaly doing a standard rebuilt w/ aftermarket rods and pistons,and MAYBE (BIG maybe) sending the head off to portflow (depending on if i get my raise)
the setup will be:
95 GSR motor
DRAG 3 kit w/ Tial wg
JE pistons-EAGLE rods
portflow head w/ titanium valve srings
440 cc RC injectors
Hondata stage 3b
Bosch fp
Greddy ebc
Greddy tt
Greddy A/F gauge
CM stage 3 w/ JUN 10lb fw
i'm trying to make it as reliable as possible,thats my main goal.(10-12 psi reliably) i'm tearing down the engine soon anyhow thats why im going w/ the upgraded internals...
[Modified by lucas569, 11:02 AM 8/3/2001]
my concern is the balancing of these components,has anyone in here dropped some rods/pistons in w/ out having them balanced?
im basicaly doing a standard rebuilt w/ aftermarket rods and pistons,and MAYBE (BIG maybe) sending the head off to portflow (depending on if i get my raise)
the setup will be:
95 GSR motor
DRAG 3 kit w/ Tial wg
JE pistons-EAGLE rods
portflow head w/ titanium valve srings
440 cc RC injectors
Hondata stage 3b
Bosch fp
Greddy ebc
Greddy tt
Greddy A/F gauge
CM stage 3 w/ JUN 10lb fw
i'm trying to make it as reliable as possible,thats my main goal.(10-12 psi reliably) i'm tearing down the engine soon anyhow thats why im going w/ the upgraded internals...
[Modified by lucas569, 11:02 AM 8/3/2001]
sounds like a good setup. If you can't afford the head work, try a skunk2 intake manifold on there, it makes good power!
you know i like the gains ive seen w/ the skunk manifold but the drag piping i bought is for a gsr. id like to redo the head anyhow (just a matter of time and money) cause the motor has about 100k miles.
Aftermarket parts are supposed to be balanced, but there is a small error and when you combine it with the bearing, rod/piston, wristpin and ring pack you can get a setup that's more than 1.0 grams off of one another.
I picked up an analytical scale and a rod balancer (looks like a seesaw), about $400 for the pair, probably well worth it because getting a shop to balance your parts is $$$$. Though you'll still need to have a shop balance the crank.
I picked up an analytical scale and a rod balancer (looks like a seesaw), about $400 for the pair, probably well worth it because getting a shop to balance your parts is $$$$. Though you'll still need to have a shop balance the crank.
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