Thought I would share this. A maxima guy compiled a bunch of oil analysis's from various cars. Scroll to the right and you'll see the honda results. Theres also filter tests, etc.

If you have a oil analysis, you can send it to bill.miles@maxima.org to have it added to the spredsheet.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

edit: Notice how Redline performs compaired to mobile1...

 

damnit I can't see it.. I don't have the program to open it.

I wanna know about the redline vs mobil 1 though if anyone can tell me..

 

jond, great document! there's a lot of information in the spreadsheet. thanks for sharing!

i'm currently using mobil 1 supersyn 10w30.

kepani-who needs an oil change soon

 

wow that ulx-110 has a grip of moly in it...
good for break ins? and more?

 

Hmm... So by this data what is the best oil?

I'm due for a change, I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 for the last 3k miles and managed to burn a quart Running the standard whatever brand jiffy lube puts in 5w30 I don't burn a drop...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by io_burn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm... So by this data what is the best oil?

I'm due for a change, I ran Castrol GTX 10w30 for the last 3k miles and managed to burn a quart Running the standard whatever brand jiffy lube puts in 5w30 I don't burn a drop...</TD></TR></TABLE>

exactly - unless you are a petroleum engineer, how can you tell if the numbers are too high or too low???? I mean, how much zinc or calcium should be in my oil???

BTW - I use Motul 8100 and love it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RaVAGE00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">exactly - unless you are a petroleum engineer, how can you tell if the numbers are too high or too low???? I mean, how much zinc or calcium should be in my oil??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Basically the top 6 you want to be as low as possible. If one oil has twice the amount of chromium, that means your rings are going to wear out twice as quick.

Aluminum(Pistons, bearings, cases)
chromium(Rings)
iron(Cylinders, rotating shafts, valve train)
copper(brass or bronze parts, copper bushings, bearings, oil collers, oil additive)
lead(bearings)
tin(bearings, piston coatings)
molybdenum(anti-wear additive, some types of rings)
nickel(element of steel)
manganese(additive in gas)
silver(trace element)
titanium(trace element)
potassium(antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oils)
boron(detergent additive)
silicon(airborne dirt, sealers, gaskets)
sodium(antifreeze, additive in some gas)
calcium(detergent additive)
magnesium(detergent additive)
phosphorus(anti-wear additive)
zinc(anti-wear additive)
barium(detergent)

 

cool stuff jond
I'll email my #s to him when I get home

&lt;preview&gt; i should get results back soon on redline 5w30 with no track miles on it so it'll be interesting to see how that compares to M1 and redline with track miles &lt;/preview&gt;

 

is there a website where we can find all the updated information? i know that excel sheet is being posted on weetodd so it wont necessarily be updated with new info right?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1525 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is there a website where we can find all the updated information? i know that excel sheet is being posted on weetodd so it wont necessarily be updated with new info right? </TD></TR></TABLE>
http://forums.maxima.org/showt...00060

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;preview&gt; i should get results back soon on redline 5w30 with no track miles on it so it'll be interesting to see how that compares to M1 and redline with track miles &lt;/preview&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>
Cool. Post your results when you get them. I'm curious to see if they're simular to mine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that ulx-110 has a grip of moly in it...
good for break ins? and more?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

sorry for my ignorance

but how do u read that spread sheet?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EVOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow that ulx-110 has a grip of moly in it...
good for break ins? and more?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Moly, like zink, is a antiwear agent. If I understand right, when oil cant get to a part of a second or two, the moly or zink protects the metal. Also Type-Rs come from the factory with the piston skirts coated with moly to protect them at high rpms. I guess a high moly count in your oil sample could could mean either the oil has a lot of it, which is probably good, or your piston skirts are wearing bad.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry for my ignorance
but how do u read that spread sheet?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Excel

 

bump, great info!

BTW: what does Total Base Number mean?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Excel

</TD></TR></TABLE>

how do i inteperate the numbers...? im' assuming higher = better?

 

The only oil I ever use!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiraiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only oil I ever use!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why..?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
why..?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have used:

HKS
Mobil 1 Tri-synth
Castrol Synth Blend
Nissan GT-R oil

Here's my impressions:

Brand:Honda Gold
price:about $55.00 for 4 liters
weight: 5w-40
comment: The best oil!! With this oil, there was little to no vibration in the car. It starts right up in cold and hot weather. Protection level is amazing. I could drive 3000 to 4000km and lose very little oil from burning. The oil even looks golden brown and not black.


Brand:HKS
price: $80.00 for 4 liters
weight: 5w-40
comment: It was about the same quality as the Honda Gold but cost $20 more.

Brand:Mobil 1 Tri-synth
price:about $45.00 for 4 liters
weight: 5w-40
comment:Car starts well in cold and hot weather. Very little vibration. Price is good. However, after about 3500km, the oil is black, and a quart of it has burned away. I can even smell burning oil from the exhaust ocassionally. Okay oil if you are short of cash.

Brand: Castrol Syth-blend
price:$35.00
weight: 10w-30
comment: Cheapest of them all. Very little burning after 3500km but doesn't seem to offer quite the same protection as the 100% synths. Engine idle vibration is minimal but still noticeable compared to the top three. Cold mornig starts are ok. Good on-budget oil

Brand:Nissan GT-R oil
price:$60.00
weight: 20w-60
comment: WAAAAAY too thick for Honda motors. I used this after I went turbo. Idle vibration was intense especially in cold weather. Cold weather starts were harsh; almost never turned over on the first crank. Not good for any Honda...even turbo Hondas....

 

where can we get the honda gold oil?

 

your dealer **might** carry it

 

jond - I checked with the company about the Preludes results. You were right about the added oil increasing the additive numbers. I confirmed this with one of the labs here as well (Petrolabs).



Modified by Mover at 9:53 AM 7/21/2003

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MiraiZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Protection level is amazing. I could drive 3000 to 4000km and lose very little oil from burning. The oil even looks golden brown and not black.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think color change is a very poor method of measuring protection.
If thats not your method, then how are you measuring the protection ability of the oil?

For protection the best oil i have seen thus far would be redline, and it turns
into a green/brown mess when it is used. But its the hardest oil to remove from
engine parts. It takes a lot of soaking in degreaser, A LOT, then a good amount
of brake cleaner and even then its not all gone.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sgT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think color change is a very poor method of measuring protection.
If thats not your method, then how are you measuring the protection ability of the oil?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with steve on the color change point.

The color change could be from cleaning old deposits, you never know just by taking note of he before/after color.

 

good info.