what should redline be with...
a gsr engine with... rebuilt head... skunk2 stage1 cams, skunk2 springs, skunk2 retainers, stock valves, stock lma's, and a stock bottom end... was wonderin what i could bring the redline up to safely?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaTeg »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">9000
but you have to tune it to make power up there</TD></TR></TABLE>
Agreed get it TUNED on a dyno. Every motor is slightly different and dynos will show U where the power is at based on UR setup.
but you have to tune it to make power up there</TD></TR></TABLE>Agreed get it TUNED on a dyno. Every motor is slightly different and dynos will show U where the power is at based on UR setup.
ok i am gettin it tuned and everythign but i just wanted to know what a safe redline would be with that setup... how do i raise the redline anyway could a v-afc do it... or do i have to get the ecu chipped?
i would get something like a hondata or even a skunk ecu. but a v-afc would help out during the tuning too. though the hondata would be a awesome power add'r.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1hotintegra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but could a v-afc raise the rev limiter</TD></TR></TABLE>
no
no
well, SAFELY i would run the stock redline...but to be as safe as possible while still raising the redline significantly, i'd agree with what people said above and say 9k is the max...
rod ratio is definitely the limiting factor here..
rod ratio is definitely the limiting factor here..
http://www.hondata.com has the s100 for 245$ that raises your redline and gives new fuel maps. just gotta find a dealer near you.
but theres no visual displays off of hondata right???
what if i wana change the v-tec x over point i have to bring it back to the hondata tuner and get it done"?
what if i wana change the v-tec x over point i have to bring it back to the hondata tuner and get it done"?
you could pull it to 9,500k and call it good and not have to worry about it. But those stage1 cams do not make power that high, so really there is no need to rev that high. When you get it on a dyno see where the cams make their peak power at(or where you have it tuned at) and then set the rev limiter behind that some, this way you can get to your peak power and go a little farther, but when you shift you will be closer to your good powerband...this is just my 2 cnets though.
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