Autometer coolant temperature gauge
How did you guys hook it up, I was told I could just splice into my stock coolant temperature gauge wire and it would work, is this so ? Cause I have been reading some post and they make it seem like you need to tap into a rad hose or the thermo housing.
I mounted my sensor where the coolant burp bolt is at. Its tapered at the end so i carefully drilled it a little bigger, ensuring not drilling any of the threads, then i simply put in my sensor and it works like a champ. No clue about ising the stock sensor.
I just read this post https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=194280
And evil drew just spliced into the wire like I thought you could. Thanks guy, anyone else can comment still and tell me where you put yours.
And evil drew just spliced into the wire like I thought you could. Thanks guy, anyone else can comment still and tell me where you put yours.
Since the stock one is so inaccurate I just took out the stock sensor and then screwed in the autometer one. You cant use the stock and the autometer one b/c it will pin the autometer one cause its grounding out
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This will not work. The ohm range that the Autometer gauge is calibrated for is totally different that what the Honda sensor is calibrated for. If you want an inaccurate gauge that just looks pretty, go ahead.
NO!! Every gauge is calibrated to a specific sender. The sender provides varying levels of electrical resistance in relation to a given change in temperature. Some senders, for example, give a signal of 1 ohm of resistance for the coldest reading and 100ohm for the hottest reading. If you try to match that to a gauge that is calibrated to interpret 50ohm as its coldest reading, and 300ohm as its hottest, how accurate do you think it will be attached to the wrong sender?
the best way thook up the stock sender is to take the old one out and put the autometer sender in which is under the dizzy youll have to take off the dizzy to get to it.
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None of the autometer senders will directly bolt up to the car. The two most common options are:
1. Go to the hardware store and buy a drill bit and tap for the appropriate thread pattern of the Autometer sender, usually 1/4" NPT. Drain the coolant out of your car and remove the inlet neck where to coolant bleed valve is located on the head. Drill that hole to the proper size and tap it. Install the new sender and your good to go.
2. Find a piece of 1" diameter aluminum piping about 4" long. Have a fairly thick (1/4" or 3/8") square (1" square is good) piece of aluminum welded onto the pipe in the center. Drill through the square and into the pipe. Tap the hole and install the sender. Cut your lower radiator hose in half at a straight point. Install the pipe and use some hose clamps. The reason I like to weld the square of aluminum to the pipe is to move the sender out a bit. It can block too much coolant flow if its installed directly into the pipe.
1. Go to the hardware store and buy a drill bit and tap for the appropriate thread pattern of the Autometer sender, usually 1/4" NPT. Drain the coolant out of your car and remove the inlet neck where to coolant bleed valve is located on the head. Drill that hole to the proper size and tap it. Install the new sender and your good to go.
2. Find a piece of 1" diameter aluminum piping about 4" long. Have a fairly thick (1/4" or 3/8") square (1" square is good) piece of aluminum welded onto the pipe in the center. Drill through the square and into the pipe. Tap the hole and install the sender. Cut your lower radiator hose in half at a straight point. Install the pipe and use some hose clamps. The reason I like to weld the square of aluminum to the pipe is to move the sender out a bit. It can block too much coolant flow if its installed directly into the pipe.
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