i just got all my codes cleared last night and my car (b16a crx) was running like a raped ape and then after about 3 or 5 hours later i pulled into a spot some friends were at and i reversed into a parking place and the engine light came on. it was code 23 or knock sensor. im stumped on why it would of come back on. i dont think i read it wrong it was 2 long blinks and 3 short ones. anyways any and all help/info/bs would be great help thanks. ps for your first real race with a new motor dont try to kill a ws6 ta with a some what stock b16a in a crx lol. its not the best idea for a first race hehe.

 

i must be reading the code wrong because my vtec enguages and if knock sensor was messed it wouldnt enguage, and also i have an odb0 ecu and harness so i dunno do the long blinks mean 10 or 5 or what?

 

the long blinks are 10 the short ones are 1's. im assuming you have a pr3 like me.

 

anybody gonna reply to my crys for help lol

 

yea i have pr3 its blinking 2 long 3 short wtf thats supposidly "knock sensor" but i didnt think that pr3 odb0 had more than 20 codes? and would my vtec even enguage if my knock sensor was messed?

 

i also heard that knock sensor can usually never go bad the only reason it might flash is if it has a bad connection at the ecu pin out or at the sensor plug ill check thouse

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokinvtecCRX18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i have pr3 its blinking 2 long 3 short wtf thats supposidly "knock sensor" but i didnt think that pr3 odb0 had more than 20 codes? and would my vtec even enguage if my knock sensor was messed?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes code 23 is the knock sensor. 1 long blink = 10, 1 short blink= 1, like you said. but it could be that the sensor itself is bad or loose where it is mounted.

YES your vtec will still engage even if you are getting a knock sensor code. this is a myth as i originally had my PR3 stock running without a knock sensor and i still had vtec.

 

i had a pr3 with a knock sensor code, it turns out that i had it hooked up wrong but it doesnt matter anymore i got a zdyne

lol i can do 120 and u cant nah nah nah nah boo boo

 

yea i am thinking it got disconnected from the ecu where it pins in, what pin does knock sensor pin it at, i didnt pin the wires, does anybody have a link to a wiring site

 

maybe

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokinvtecCRX18 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea i am thinking it got disconnected from the ecu where it pins in, what pin does knock sensor pin it at, i didnt pin the wires, does anybody have a link to a wiring site</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your ECU will throw code 23 when the Knock sensor is faulty, just check the connection.

If you disconnect it the ECU will always throw the code, it won't affect how your car runs as the Knock sensor goes open loop over 5000rppm and therefore does nothing.

 

what would have to happen to cause a knock sensor to go faulty i checked it to see if it was loose or anything and its tight. so i dunno im a perfectionist so im gonna keep working at getting the code cleared im not sure but does the knock sensor pin in at b19 at my ecu thats what i read on a site but im not sure any ideas or things to try?

 

I had get a code 23 randomly every now and then before. I grounded my engine better and the code hasn't come back for a while...

Who knows.

Maybe Hondas have gremlins like VW

 

where did you re-ground at? and did you use bigger wire?

 

I am wondering the same question as well
I just got done putting a JDM B16 in my civic CX and I am thowing the same code
(motor swap was easy but getting the bugs out is a pain in the ****)

 

If you use a JDM ECU it will throw Code 23, this can be sorted by soldering a low tolerance 1kOhm resistor to pin B19 and grounding it on the ECU's body