I plan to install a hondata IM gasket in the near future, and since Im in there, Im very tempted to install a thinner head gasket to boost my compression a tad bit more. Id like to do the work myself for a change, rather than get raped on labor charges. Im pretty confident I can handle it with the Helms at my side, but it would be my first attempt at major work on my car. I was there when my motor was taken apart the first time so Im familiar with the process and the helms can provide me with specs and whatnot, but Ive never really wanted to attempt to mess around with the cams/timing belt myself. Just curious if any of you guys had any bad experiences with your first timing belt/cam shaft install or removal and maybe you have some tips I could keep in mind. Thanks.

 

You can remove the manifold w/o removing the head...

Unless you want to remove the head. Its not very hard with the Helms, should take about 3 hrs or so.

RJ

 

yeah i know i dont have to remove the head for the IM gasket, just figured since i was gonna be in there, might as well kill 2 birds with one stone. any kind of special tools/lubes/cleaners i might need? if i recall correctly, the pieces that hold the retainers on(forget the name) were sort of a bitch and you needed a tool to hold the spring down so u could put the pieces on.

 

you dont need to remove those to get the head off.

no special tools.. pbblaster on header bolts works well... some liquid gasket for the cam seals, and a clean workspace. Breaker bar and torque wrench for the headbolts too.

 

RJ is right on target. nothin some home tools cant do. and make sure you follow the sequence of headbolt removal

 

for some reason I was thinking I had to remove the valvetrain.

OK so that makes thing actually seem a lot less complicated.

 

dont forget to drain the coolant out of the block (19mm bolt behind the header, need a 3' breaker for it) before you pull the head off. Dont ask me how i know.

 

he is right about that too.. make sure you apply liquid gasket to the threads when you put it back on.

 

Ive already got ARP studs, but the torque specs should be the same right

 

my breaker bar (big steel pipe) was about face level when i was breaking that bitch loose. And then it broke loose. And my roomate was about to fall over laughing - he stopped for a second to say "dood, you just own3d yourself in the face!" and kept laughing.

I'm glad they like to sit around and drink beer while i work on my car.

 

63 if i am not mistaking. i threw the sheet away a while ago, im just using memory from when i installed my head with ARP studs. but its a 2 step process. 25ftlb first, then 63ftlb. someone please confirm the right spec.

yah and make sure you use a breaker bar or somthing big. cuz you could throw your elbow out. almost happened to me, but i was busting motor mount nuts loose on a toyota. **** hurt. but it was only 3 nuts

 

follow the specs that came with your studs... not the helms for these.

 

yes i checked the helms, it is 63ft/lbs for the stock head bolts. i just wasnt sure if the ARP studs used a different torque spec or not.

Ill try to find out what ARP recommends.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=494573 i found this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=435341
70 with the lube it comes with. 83 with oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RTW DC2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes i checked the helms, it is 63ft/lbs for the stock head bolts. i just wasnt sure if the ARP studs used a different torque spec or not.

Ill try to find out what ARP recommends. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Check with ARP. Follow the same sequence in the book.

 

If you don't have air tools, good luck on the crank pulley bolt. If you are gonna do all that work you might as well change the timing belt and water pump.

 

how many miles are on the car?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tommy_Gunns &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't have air tools, good luck on the crank pulley bolt. If you are gonna do all that work you might as well change the timing belt and water pump.</TD></TR></TABLE>

that was the plan, water pump is new, but i wanna go with a aftermarket belt as well as a ATI pulley.

one thing leads to another....damn im broke.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=494573 i found this.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=435341
70 with the lube it comes with. 83 with oil</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how many miles are on the car? </TD></TR></TABLE>

only 127 miles since the first buildup lol. I dont plan on doing this immediately, after I break it in some more.