D16 troubles...
#1
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D16 troubles...
If anyone has any ideas or can contribute in any way, I'd greatly appreciate it.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=327820
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=327820
#3
Solbros Owns Me
Re: D16 troubles... (ThunderLips)
Alright, head gasket replacement on the D16 is a sinch. First time it took me 3 hours, and 2nd time it took about 30 minutes. You don't need to remove the timing belt unless you're replacing it. Make sure the engine is at TDC and mark the t -belt and cam sprocket to make sure you get it back to where it was. Loosen the belt tensioner and slide the belt off of the cam sprocket/gear. Then unbolt everything and do your thing.
Few tips- leave intake manifold on the head, there are 2 12mm(I believe 12 mm) bolts under neath connecting the IM to a bracket. From the underside you can see them.
- Do this when the engine is cold so the metal is not expanded.
- spray a good amount of copper gasket sealer on head gasket.
-Make sure mating surfaces are spotless from deposits and/or old gasket.
-Get new head bolts and make sure you follow the sequence to torque them down-I can get that for you if you need.
-reinstall timing belt and exhuast mani and all other sensors/hoses and you're good.
BTW, make sure you drain the coolant first(just enough so it doesn't pour into the cylinders., don't need to do oil, but might as well get it all done at once.
P.S. Might as well take the head in and get milled, valve job, port/polished , etc if this is the engine you'll be working with. IM me if you need any help
Few tips- leave intake manifold on the head, there are 2 12mm(I believe 12 mm) bolts under neath connecting the IM to a bracket. From the underside you can see them.
- Do this when the engine is cold so the metal is not expanded.
- spray a good amount of copper gasket sealer on head gasket.
-Make sure mating surfaces are spotless from deposits and/or old gasket.
-Get new head bolts and make sure you follow the sequence to torque them down-I can get that for you if you need.
-reinstall timing belt and exhuast mani and all other sensors/hoses and you're good.
BTW, make sure you drain the coolant first(just enough so it doesn't pour into the cylinders., don't need to do oil, but might as well get it all done at once.
P.S. Might as well take the head in and get milled, valve job, port/polished , etc if this is the engine you'll be working with. IM me if you need any help
#5
Solbros Owns Me
Re: D16 troubles... (tek_civic)
good to hear, I could go in depth, but everything is pretty basic, there's just some things you want to make sure you do right the first time, and the perfect example is the head gasket. Sealing is key. If your gasket blew because of overheating, take it to a machine shop and make sure it's level. I like to clean the mating surfaces with a 3M scuff pad on a die grinder, but you can just use a degreaser and steel whool or a scuff pad.
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Re: D16 troubles... (Emerica)
You da bomb man! J/K...Thanks for the info...I'm really a total *** when it comes to hardcore engine work IE taking heads off, etc. I'm going to check out my problem more to see if I'm ready for this task. I might just end up getting a new D16 instead.
#7
Solbros Owns Me
Re: D16 troubles... (ThunderLips)
no, did it yourself! Have you ever changed a timing belt? It's pretty much the same thing just unbolting more and removing more. You don't even have to remove the crank pulley either! It's easy
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Re: D16 troubles... (Emerica)
I hear the crank pulley is a total bitch. I'm trying to aquire a VTEC head and bust a 'lil mini-me...But a certain someone on this boards who will remain nameless won't sell me the head for one reason or another. And FYI, I have never changed my timing belt. But, I am totally anxious to learn.
#9
Solbros Owns Me
Re: D16 troubles... (ThunderLips)
just get a breaker bar and someone to jam a the close end of a wrench between the flywheel and tranny housing and step on the breaker bar- thats what I did, unless you have an impact wrench
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