What setup are u running if u dont mind me asking and how has the reliability been so far? Whats the farthest you've ever traveled with the setup and were there any neg. affects of the long use? (Im thinkin about a 4 hr trip I take every couple months to Dallas.)

Im playin with going with this setup:
14b
starion intercooler (what do you starion I/C users do about the end tanks?)
zdyne gold secu
not sure on the manifold yet - I'd like to keep my A/C

this is all I've thought of so far, if you've got any idea on ideal prices for the above items plz post em.

One more thing - how much boost are u guys running on your ZC, it might be awhile before I get the money/***** to tear apart my block and build it. Im thinkin I may run 6psi on the stock motor.

 

I'm planning a greddy kit on my z6 ef. My friend has a turbo z6 in his del sol. On the highway he doesn't go into boost unless he wants to. He's made at least 6 or 7 round trips from Albany to NYC (3 hours each way) and everthing has held up fine. As long as you don't boost, you're saving fuel and wear on the engine.

 

running the greddy kit intercooled pushing 10 psi with the hack..
i put in the kit on back in Jan, i made few trips to NC and GA(5 hours and 8 hours)
and everything was fine, no isssues what so ever..well on my last trip to NC for easter i spun 2 rod bearings(#1 and #3)
now i'm in the process of putting in another zc, may try to build this one first though cuz like you you; i said i was only gonna run 6 psi, but trust me-- you're gonna wanna turn it up

 

I wont be hungry for boost, I'd muuch rather have the peice of mind that my motor isnt straining than accelerate a little faster. I'll build it before I boost higher.

How can you drive without boosting it? I never thought about that cuz I was under the impression that as long as ur motor is running.. exhaust gases are keeping the turbine spinning which in turn keeps the compressor spinning.. giving you boost. Am I wrong?

And quis, were you into boost when you spun those bearings? Think it was cuz you were running too much boost for the motor?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drjondurst &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wont be hungry for boost, I'd muuch rather have the peice of mind that my motor isnt straining than accelerate a little faster. I'll build it before I boost higher.

How can you drive without boosting it? I never thought about that cuz I was under the impression that as long as ur motor is running.. exhaust gases are keeping the turbine spinning which in turn keeps the compressor spinning.. giving you boost. Am I wrong?

And quis, were you into boost when you spun those bearings? Think it was cuz you were running too much boost for the motor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Driving without boost can be done more than one way the first is to simply turn the boost down to a real low psi and go like that the second way and the way I think he was saying as to his friend drivin without boost is just down drive a WOT keep it at low rpm's and simply don't smash the gas and you will not be boosting remember there has to be enough exhaust to spool the turbo and if your staying at about 2500 rpm and the gas is only say a quarter of the way down then this will either not create boost or you will be at a very low psi

ZC turbo gotta love it

 

Converted from an Automatic, JDM ZC DOHC engine, Greddy 92-95 Civic Turbo kit, Accel wires, Aluminum Oil cap, Blitz BOV, Random Tech high flow cat, DC Sports Stainless Exhaust, Si Trans, Neuspeed Short shifter, Clutchmasters Stage 2 Clutch, 90 Eclipse Side Mount Intercooler, Zdyne Gold ECU, DSM 450cc Fuel injectors. Running 8 pounds of boost.



Ran 5.5 pounds for 2 years no problems till I installed a intercooler then started to run lean in the winter. Upgraded to a Zdyne Gold with dsm 450's 2 months ago and running 8 pounds now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CWBETB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Converted from an Automatic, JDM ZC DOHC engine, Greddy 92-95 Civic Turbo kit, Accel wires, Aluminum Oil cap, Blitz BOV, Random Tech high flow cat, DC Sports Stainless Exhaust, Si Trans, Neuspeed Short shifter, Clutchmasters Stage 2 Clutch, 90 Eclipse Side Mount Intercooler, Zdyne Gold ECU, DSM 450cc Fuel injectors. Running 8 pounds of boost.



Ran 5.5 pounds for 2 years no problems till I installed a intercooler then started to run lean in the winter. Upgraded to a Zdyne Gold with dsm 450's 2 months ago and running 8 pounds now</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats a very nice and clean engine bay you got there nice set-up Did the zydne gold make a big difference?

 

So far the Zdyne is working great, I still need to do some fine tuning on a dyno though. Its great being able to ditch the FMU and check valves. We tuned it on the road with a wideband. Car runs a little to rich at low rpm though . Throttle response is alot better now with the Zdyne.

 

my freind ran a greddy on his for a while at 10lbs-very noticeable improvement.car pulled pretty well.he had traction issues but the motor pulled like crazy after like 4000 rpm.he was running afc hack with 450 dsm injectors.everything was ok until he decide to unhook the wastegate.car was insanely fast but only lasted about 1 or 2 weeks.snapped one rod and bent another.blew a hole through both sides of the block and one of the rods smacked into the oilpan and dented the hell out of it

 

When I had the greddy turbo on the zc, the car got good gas mileage and it was very reliable (driven daily) until someone broke into my car.

 

So you guys think I would be better goin with a greddy kit rather than peicing together the kit I mentioned above? Remember Im goin for reliability here.

CWBETB, really nice setup, and car.

 

what greddy turbo you guys run on the ZC...to my concern at this moment is im buildint a zc with custom turbo... i was planning to run t-25 boosting around 10 if possible one all build up engine... and maybe hondata or zdyne ecu but like the guy say he want to keep his ac.. cauz man i dont know how am i gonna live in the summer in VA w/o my a/c

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 88civicHB703 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what greddy turbo you guys run on the ZC...</TD></TR></TABLE>

92-95 Civic EX/Si kit. made for the d16z6 engine but fit in a zc crx with little modification.

 

you were right about keeping the rpms low, just don't step on the gas too hard and the turbo won't spool up enough to be in vacuum. exactly how you would drive if going for gas mileage anyway.

 

is there like a way to turn the turbo off because i known to have heavy foot.. i wanted cauz when i race or goin to meet i could show off my work... oohh yea gotta luv the EF...

 

You wouldnt want to turn off the boost. I guess you can get a boost control and adjust the boost super low. Honestly the only time I am hitting boost is at about mid throttle. And if that Im only hitting a few pounds.

 

a pieced together kit can be better than a off the shelf kit, because you can pick the turbo and all the individual pieces. A greddy or similar kit is an awesome kit dont get my wrong, but more possibilites when you piece your **** together yourself, but can take longer...but saves you hella cash. Here is a list i put together..

<FONT SIZE="4"><FONT COLOR="darkblue">SHOPPING LIST:</FONT> </FONT>
<FONT COLOR="purple">From Local Performance Shop</FONT>
Three 2.23 inch U-bend steel $17
One 2.5 inch 90 degree aluminized bend - $25
One down pipe flange $10
One down pipe gasket $8
One 1G blow off valve flange $10 (1st gen eclipse)
One 1G blow off valve gasket $4 (1st gen eclipse)
One 6mm gasket $3
One turbo-to-oxygen sensor housing gasket $5
One oil return line new $55 used $10 (may have to widen the opening)
One oil return gasket $1
One silicone 2.25 inch to 2 inch reducer hose $18
One foot of rubber 2.25 inch hose - $12 per foot
Nine 2.75 inch heavy duty clamps $2 each
One 3 inch heavy duty clamp - $2.50
One 1G blow off valve $90 new $5-$40 used (1st gen eclipse)
One 2G T25 Turbo - $25-$150 (2nd gen eclipse)
One 1G oxygen sensor housing $10-$20 (1st gen eclipse)
One 2G stock intercooler core - $10-$50 (2nd gen eclipse)

<FONT COLOR="purple">From Local Salvage Yard</FONT>
One HF CRX manifold $20 to $50

<FONT COLOR="purple">Local Auto Parts Store (pep boys/autozone)</FONT>
One 60 inch long .25 hard line $1.69
One 1/8 inch NPT male to male fitting $1.49
One 1/8 inch NPT femal "T" fitting $2.19
One 1/8 inch male to 1/4 inch pipe female fitting $1.49
One 1/2 inch ID rubber hose, 1 foot $1.99
One can of high temp engine paint $3.99
Four quarts of oil $9.16
One oil filter $4.15

They did mention the adapter plate in the article, but not on the list, so here is the specs on that, word for word from the article.

Using the HF manifold as a guide, center it on a piece of .75 x 4 x 5 inche flat steel plate that is roughly big enough to mate the header and turbo. Mark and center punch the four holes on the manifold. Drill and tap with a 10mm x 1.25mm tap .5 inch deep for all four holes, but do NOT go all the way through. If you prefer you can skip this process and weld the plate directly to the manifold. But i know some people dont have welders. Here is a pic of the adapter plate


<FONT COLOR="purple">Tools Needed</FONT>
Basic mechanics tools - Sockets, wrenches, etc.
Grinder
Tape measure
Center hole punch
Die Grinder
Drill pess/hand drill
Drill bits
2 inch hole saw
Welder

The least we spent was $225 & the most was about $560



Check out http://www.homemadeturbo.com, they have some good articles and good resources if your going to tackle this by yourself.

 

thnx 1 point the part list is most helpful indeed to me at this point..