replacing tranny oil seal
My brothers GSR has a small oil leak coming from the tranny right where the axle connects.
It looks like a bad axle seal, numer #16 on this picture.

How would I go about disconnecting the axle to remove and replace this seal? Does the seal itself come out easily, (ie screwdriver with electrictape enough to pry it out?)
Is removing the axle necissary, from what I have seen on other sites its a pretty big job. If I don't have to for some reason, that would be great.
It looks like a bad axle seal, numer #16 on this picture.

How would I go about disconnecting the axle to remove and replace this seal? Does the seal itself come out easily, (ie screwdriver with electrictape enough to pry it out?)
Is removing the axle necissary, from what I have seen on other sites its a pretty big job. If I don't have to for some reason, that would be great.
You don't need to remove the axel. Remove the front shock then just separate the hub from the lower control arm. One it's free, you'll be able to pull the end of the axle out of the tranny. It won't be hard. You MIGHT need a screwdriver to pry it out. Make sure you wrap a rag around the end of it while you're changing the seals, just too keep dirt and stuff off of it.
The seals themselves will just pop in and out.
The seals themselves will just pop in and out.
You really have to remove the whole shock?
One person I talked to said he did it by removing the wheel off, then removing the nut from the hub and separate the ball joint, removed the lower fork, then he could pull the axel out of the tranny slowly.
Either way its not too bad, as long as its not the rear shocks which are known to seize.
One person I talked to said he did it by removing the wheel off, then removing the nut from the hub and separate the ball joint, removed the lower fork, then he could pull the axel out of the tranny slowly.
Either way its not too bad, as long as its not the rear shocks which are known to seize.
I only pulled the shock to have more room to work. I'm sure you just pull the lower fork and be fine. At that point, what's (2) more 14mm nuts though, right?
Alright great, thanks for the info everyone.
I am going to just pull those two nuts, I would rather do that (which is easy) than try and fight with little room to get the axle out.
So it should just pull straight out? I don't need to twist it, dislodge it, etc? And it goes back in the same way, push straight in?
Just want to cover all the bases.
I am going to just pull those two nuts, I would rather do that (which is easy) than try and fight with little room to get the axle out.
So it should just pull straight out? I don't need to twist it, dislodge it, etc? And it goes back in the same way, push straight in?
Just want to cover all the bases.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Do NOT pull on the axle if the inboard joint is still attached. Is this on the passenger side or driver side? If it's on the passenger side you need to use a screwdriver or prybar to get the inboard joint out of the diff. You will need to drain the tranny so that fluid doesn't pour out.
If it's on the driver side, you can do the same thing as on the pass. side as far as separating the LCA ball joint, but then unbolt the center driveshaft from the block, and then that will just slide out of the tranny (no prying needed, since the bolts on the block hold it in place). You can just leave the axle attached to the center shaft. You will probably need a helper to do this, since that stuff is pretty heavy.
If it's on the driver side, you can do the same thing as on the pass. side as far as separating the LCA ball joint, but then unbolt the center driveshaft from the block, and then that will just slide out of the tranny (no prying needed, since the bolts on the block hold it in place). You can just leave the axle attached to the center shaft. You will probably need a helper to do this, since that stuff is pretty heavy.
Its on the passanger side.
So after I disconnect the suspension, drain the fluid, I need to get a prybar and pull the inboard joint out of the diff?
Then I can slide the axle itself out?
Is this a picture of prying the inboard joint out?
So after I disconnect the suspension, drain the fluid, I need to get a prybar and pull the inboard joint out of the diff?
Then I can slide the axle itself out?
Is this a picture of prying the inboard joint out?
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
In that pic you are prying the driver side inboard joint away from the center halfshaft. You have a joint like that right next to the diff/tranny on the passenger side, and that's what you need to pry out. Pry it only far enough to release the snap ring, then slide it out the rest of the way (this is after you separate the lower balljoint from the LCA).
You have to start somewhere, how many people are born with the know how to tare down and rebuild an engine?
I just want to make sure I am %100 sure on all aspects of this job before I do it.
I am not the type of person to go in and just start screwing around unless I know exactly what I am doing.
Thanks for the information Patrick, between the posts here and my helms I should be all set at this point.
I just want to make sure I am %100 sure on all aspects of this job before I do it.
I am not the type of person to go in and just start screwing around unless I know exactly what I am doing.
Thanks for the information Patrick, between the posts here and my helms I should be all set at this point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PIMPASSBEOTCH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you really need to post this question...if so you may want to consider not working on your own car and leave it to a professional...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Please, guy... this stuff is easy and he seems to know most of the procedures... if he hasn't done it before... EVERYONE was a n00b at one time.
IMO, you can do this if you're mechanically inclined... you don't NEED to remove the shock at all. The things you listed were right on par... I recommend you jack her up and take a GOOD look at what you will need to do before hand.
X2
Please, guy... this stuff is easy and he seems to know most of the procedures... if he hasn't done it before... EVERYONE was a n00b at one time.
IMO, you can do this if you're mechanically inclined... you don't NEED to remove the shock at all. The things you listed were right on par... I recommend you jack her up and take a GOOD look at what you will need to do before hand.
X2
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by X2BOARD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
IMO, you can do this if you're mechanically inclined... you don't NEED to remove the shock at all. The things you listed were right on par... I recommend you jack her up and take a GOOD look at what you will need to do before hand.
X2</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definetly will do that, thanks for the input!
IMO, you can do this if you're mechanically inclined... you don't NEED to remove the shock at all. The things you listed were right on par... I recommend you jack her up and take a GOOD look at what you will need to do before hand.
X2</TD></TR></TABLE>
Definetly will do that, thanks for the input!
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mattbatson
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