how to run 15 psi on SOHC??
Sup guys,
well 4 weeks of boosting at 9 psi and now i want to Up the boost to 15. My setup is
civic 2000 EX turbo
TD05 turbo
smc+ *fuel management* with UBERCHIP
450cc injectors
tublar manifold
2.5 dp
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust
starion intercooler
type h rfl (blow off valve)
2.25 charge pipe
high flow 2.5 carsound cat
3 inch inlet and outlet muffler
Heres the question... what does it take to get my car to run 15 with no problem.
Piston? what kind?
Rod? what kind?
blockgaurd? what kind?
anything else?
well 4 weeks of boosting at 9 psi and now i want to Up the boost to 15. My setup is
civic 2000 EX turbo
TD05 turbo
smc+ *fuel management* with UBERCHIP
450cc injectors
tublar manifold
2.5 dp
3 inch mandrel bent exhaust
starion intercooler
type h rfl (blow off valve)
2.25 charge pipe
high flow 2.5 carsound cat
3 inch inlet and outlet muffler
Heres the question... what does it take to get my car to run 15 with no problem.
Piston? what kind?
Rod? what kind?
blockgaurd? what kind?
anything else?
Probably a high flow pump to start with, pistons, rods. I'm not sure about the sleves but i believe that they should hold up to 15psi. Precise tuning. that should get you started. There is a guy on here that i believe still sells supra piston/rod combos for the d-series (turbopanda) and a decent price
i was thinking about turbopandas piston/rod setup but i dont want to notch the block for the rods. anymore info would be good.
Almost any beefy aftermarket rod you get for the D16, you're gonna need to notch the block to clear it anyways, may as well do it for your B16 rods.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbod16y8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was thinking about turbopandas piston/rod setup but i dont want to notch the block for the rods. anymore info would be good.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm planning to get that combo soon. i think notch the block isn't a big deal, because you would have to do the same for aftermarket rods.
i'm planning to get that combo soon. i think notch the block isn't a big deal, because you would have to do the same for aftermarket rods.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about those eagle rods, we still need to notch the block?
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yup
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yup
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what is needed to notch the block anyways??
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either taking it to a machine shop, or using a grinder with a very steady hand
Don't think that once you notch the block, it'll never be the same - its not something you can see unless you open up the engine, and you can always put your stock rods back in - it will work just the same.
Here's a picture of my original D16Y8 block that was notched in order to fit the rods from the package i'm selling..
(sorry for the ridiculously large filesize of this image (728k), but you guys want detail, right?)

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either taking it to a machine shop, or using a grinder with a very steady hand

Don't think that once you notch the block, it'll never be the same - its not something you can see unless you open up the engine, and you can always put your stock rods back in - it will work just the same.
Here's a picture of my original D16Y8 block that was notched in order to fit the rods from the package i'm selling..
(sorry for the ridiculously large filesize of this image (728k), but you guys want detail, right?)


did you notch it with a grinder??
so you basicall shaved the block off a bit..
so it was because the rods are too wide and it will hit the block if we don't notch??
thanks for the pic
so you basicall shaved the block off a bit..
so it was because the rods are too wide and it will hit the block if we don't notch??
thanks for the pic
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you notch it with a grinder??
so it was because the rods are too wide and it will hit the block if we don't notch??
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yep. Well, I didn't do it personally, but my mechanic did. If you don't notch the block, the crankshaft won't even be able to rotate because the sides of the rods will get stuck against the block.
so it was because the rods are too wide and it will hit the block if we don't notch??
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. Well, I didn't do it personally, but my mechanic did. If you don't notch the block, the crankshaft won't even be able to rotate because the sides of the rods will get stuck against the block.
If you buy crower roda you DO NOT have to notch the block, i am using arias piston on crower rods, and i did NOT notch the block for these to clear.
So i know from personal exsperience, that they will work with out any clearance issues.
Brian
So i know from personal exsperience, that they will work with out any clearance issues.
Brian
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H-T Member »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what about the crower econo rods?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have no experience with these only what I have heard, and thats not good. Like I said though I have no personal experience with them so I cant really make an educated decision.
I have no experience with these only what I have heard, and thats not good. Like I said though I have no personal experience with them so I cant really make an educated decision.
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