brake heat shields
Why pull the Heat shields?
On an iTR they barely way 5 pounds
they prevent heatsoak from hot air flowing over your extractors and into your air intake area (which is supposed to be as cool as possible
ITs an aesthetic ****** mod
On an iTR they barely way 5 pounds
they prevent heatsoak from hot air flowing over your extractors and into your air intake area (which is supposed to be as cool as possible
ITs an aesthetic ****** mod
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YelLowITR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sorry i mean brake heat sheild, the one at the back of rotor</TD></TR></TABLE>
I warped my stock rotors and cooked several sets of pads so I removed the brake heat shields to help a little more air get to the rotor. I removed all of the rear heat shields, and the top portion of the front heat shields. Seems to have helped the situation, although I'm using better pads than before too.
I warped my stock rotors and cooked several sets of pads so I removed the brake heat shields to help a little more air get to the rotor. I removed all of the rear heat shields, and the top portion of the front heat shields. Seems to have helped the situation, although I'm using better pads than before too.
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Type Goch »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This might sound dumb but, is it safe in wet conditions to have the shields off?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I suppose if I got the rotors hot and then got them wet there could be a problem...but I don't plan on doing that.
I've been driving around town in stormy weather and it's been fine. Water shouldn't hurt the rotors at all...and if it does they are only $25-36 each depending on where you get them. A set of cooked pads costs much more than that.
I suppose if I got the rotors hot and then got them wet there could be a problem...but I don't plan on doing that.
I've been driving around town in stormy weather and it's been fine. Water shouldn't hurt the rotors at all...and if it does they are only $25-36 each depending on where you get them. A set of cooked pads costs much more than that.
Not good to remove them because the ABS sensor get`s too hot while racing. It breaks and a failure light appears. Since we saw this happen a few times we cut a whole in the heat shield for the brake cooling hoses...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR1858 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not good to remove them because the ABS sensor get`s too hot while racing. It breaks and a failure light appears. Since we saw this happen a few times we cut a whole in the heat shield for the brake cooling hoses...</TD></TR></TABLE>
In all the ITR's I have known to have them removed (me one of them) I have never had heard or expirenced this problem.
If you keep them, and road race, the rotors may get too hot and ruin a brand new set of pads by cooking them prematurely.
I suggest to all who road race, remove them. The ideal way to do it, is like we did Bobs, only remove to majority of it while still retaining the portion on the bottom most section to protect the lower ball joint from overheating and potential premature failure.
In all the ITR's I have known to have them removed (me one of them) I have never had heard or expirenced this problem.
If you keep them, and road race, the rotors may get too hot and ruin a brand new set of pads by cooking them prematurely.
I suggest to all who road race, remove them. The ideal way to do it, is like we did Bobs, only remove to majority of it while still retaining the portion on the bottom most section to protect the lower ball joint from overheating and potential premature failure.
I use Ferodo pads...
Everything fine with them
The problem with ABS appeared three or four times.
This is the setup of a friend. I think he`s disabled ABS.
Everything fine with themThe problem with ABS appeared three or four times.
This is the setup of a friend. I think he`s disabled ABS.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR1858 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not good to remove them because the ABS sensor get`s too hot while racing. It breaks and a failure light appears. Since we saw this happen a few times we cut a whole in the heat shield for the brake cooling hoses...</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been on track for some sessions as long as 40 minutes (and in 90+ degree weather) and never had any problems.
I've been on track for some sessions as long as 40 minutes (and in 90+ degree weather) and never had any problems.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The question now is: Is it really a heat shield or is it a splash guard?
In the shop manual it is called a splash guard.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I call it a spash guard.
Removal? the right way, is to remove the rotors, axles, etc. and unscrew the phillips screws.
I just cut mine off.
In the shop manual it is called a splash guard.....</TD></TR></TABLE>
I call it a spash guard.
Removal? the right way, is to remove the rotors, axles, etc. and unscrew the phillips screws.
I just cut mine off.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
BrakeExpert
Tech / Misc
31
Jan 6, 2007 11:08 PM
apexinghonda
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
45
May 27, 2004 07:02 PM
Mike P.
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
36
Feb 15, 2002 06:58 AM



