This is the new product that i saw in the other thread. GC claim to increase Travel.
Can somebody explain to me how it would acutally increase travel?


Thanks

 

3 pages:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=381459

 

Thanks, i think i have a better understanding now.

It seems to me that there may be a need to use spring compressor.
Cause for my current set up Koni shorter shalf and GC, the pillow mount pretty much sit evenly with the spring, at 2 in. lower. At full dropp, there is almost no spring play.
But if i installed the GC Mount, it will literelly be compressing the springs since the two mounting point is further down. Thats why i think i will need spring compressor to install those. Am i right?

 

How can one tell if they're shocks are at the end of their travel? The springs I have seem to be short enough that they would bind before the shock runs out of travel, is this a correct assumption? (if they are that short, that is)

 

I believe front suspension are more prone to need more travel.
My front end is about 2 in. lowered and when i look under the fender, there is only less then half an inch of travel. This is already with the bumptop cut in half.
But the spring still leave enough travel before binding.

 

hondacivicex98-u may need a compressor, u may not. u can always dro the spring perch down some, put the mounts in and then raise it back up. it will be hard to turn against the spring(had to raise my car. it sucked) but it can be done.

ion four-the way i found out i was toward the end of my shock travel was when i had to put my snow tires back on. with the 13's, i can see whe shock towards the top of its stroke. u can put a ziptie on the shock rod all the way down, go to an autox or track day and then see where it ends up. as for being coilbound...that sux. u would need stiffer springs if that was becomming a problem. i have never heard of this problem on a honda, but maybe someone else has and could help u out on that.

-spenc

 

Won't help on all cars but here's the poor man's strut spring compressor - also WAY easier than most of them...

Take a 4-5' length of 2x6 and use a hole saw to bore a 1-1/2 - 2" hole about 1/3 of the way from an end. Find an open stairway (basement, deck, or such) and poke the end with the hole in the 2nd or 3rd step (we used a ladder leading to the loft of our shop). Put the strut assembly under the board so that the end pokes up through the hole and sit on the other end. You might need to put blocks under the strut or change steps to get things to the proper heights but your butt on the end of the lever will compress approx 3x your weight in spring. Higher rate, use a longer board and a friend.

K

 

Why not just use the weight of the auto? Line the assembly up and lower the car slowly until the piston rod protrudes threw the mount, put the nut on and tighten them up. Or line up the assembly put a jack under the knuckle and raise the jack until the piston rod protrudes threw the mount, put the nut on and tighten them up. Much easer and safer!

 

I read the other thread and didnt see anyone who had used these. Does anyone have any personal experience?? I am thinking about picking a set up this summer.

 

you can read this thread started just a few days ago for reviews.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=470060

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can read this thread started just a few days ago for reviews.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=470060</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Wouldn't these cause the upper arm to hit the top of the wheel well if your car is lowered? To me it seems it's almost the same as trimming the bumpstop, it basically just allows the shock to travel higher up thus allowing the wheel to move higher into the wheel well?

 

i wouldnt say using these things would "cause" the a-arm to bottom out as well, but by not being limited by bottoming out the shocks doesnt mean youre not limited to how low you can get dropped by other things like the a-arm geometry.

 

I was thinking that this part might allow the suspension to travel too much, thus the A arm will hit the fender wall. Not sure??

I have also read another threat on how to play with the fork on the front shocks. Basically what they do is, they take off the O ring between the fork and the shock, allowing the fork to sit higher on the shocks. I am not sure how safe this is because now, the bolt holding the fork will not lock the shocks.
To me, the bolt works as a lock, locking the shock and the fork.
any thoughts?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaCivicEx98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was thinking that this part might allow the suspension to travel too much, thus the A arm will hit the fender wall. Not sure?? </TD></TR></TABLE>
id rather bottom out my suspension to the chassis than bottom out my shocks any day.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have also read another threat on how to play with the fork on the front shocks. Basically what they do is, they take off the O ring between the fork and the shock, allowing the fork to sit higher on the shocks. I am not sure how safe this is because now, the bolt holding the fork will not lock the shocks.
To me, the bolt works as a lock, locking the shock and the fork.
any thoughts?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you read the other (long) thread, i explain what you do to remove the collar that holds the brake lines which give you an extra 3/4" as well. if you do it right, it works great, but following your description alone sounds like just halfassing it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HondaCivicEx98 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It seems to me that there may be a need to use spring compressor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I just installed mine 2 days ago. The spring will be preloaded (in my case) with these top hats/mounts. I did what DB1-R81 said.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=378981
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you read the other (long) thread, i explain what you do to remove the collar that holds the brake lines which give you an extra 3/4" as well. if you do it right, it works great, but following your description alone sounds like just halfassing it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is the threat that i read. I dont recall that u have posted in the threat.
Did you actually posted a threat about how to play with the Fork, cause i like to know and tried on my car but i am not sure what to do with the bolt.
Do u have a link?

Thanks

 

Ok, i found the thread and the web site the describe the method.

But let me aks you a question, my civic has this bracket between the shocks and fork that looks like its purpose is to keep the fork from creeping up. There is no brake line bracket. The brake line are hooked behind the shocks and not like the CRX or EG civic.
Does this seems that i wount be able to do this mod?

 

no, u can take that off with a grind wheel and drop the shock.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, u can take that off with a grind wheel and drop the shock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Let me clarify. I am running koni yellows, and the two parts that it has is the spacer and the fork. There is no need to gring anything as these spacers can be removed by hamering it out. So do u mean i can just take those spacer off and not use them and slide to fork higher?
And if this is how is done, is it safe? Will the fork go over the shocks too much at stream load?

thanks

 

you should probably have a spacer made so the fork doesn't go too high up the shock. the spacer is shown on this page:
http://www32.brinkster.com/tjshondas/frshock.html

 

shortend front forks would own, but then we'd get no camber. i wish they made camber adjustment(not just correction) for 4gcivic/2g crx