i have a DC JDM 4-1 so it moved o2 down to the bottom. i was running 1 non heted 02, and lotta probs. switched to a heated o2, still probs. i have both wires spliced into that one o2. reset ECU runs fine for 10 miles, then starts to hesitate bad again.
i need your help on 2 quesitons
1. whats the avg differnce in voltage between the #1 and #2 o2 sensor? (im hoping inline resistor might work)
2. if i unplug both of them, will it put it at a standard base map, or will it put me in a limp mode?


thnx for all the replies

 

I had the same problem i basicaly at the ECU PWO i connected both wires together and it runs mint ive done this on the PR3 and i runs fine too i dunno why they have two O2 i ran both together car runs good went on the dyno and A/F IS PERFECT

 

Oh and for O2 im running a non heated O2 u just have to let the car wamr up for a bit as soon as i start to drive around like forst 1min the A/F starts to move around .But at idle the O2 is too cold

 

Oh what Pin out on the ECU did u have it too??? Try switching pin outs

 

Im not sure why you are running into difficulties. I have ran this setup for over 9000 miles without a glitch. I have dynoed as well and i have a near perfect 13.9 a/f across the board. Where did you jump the wires, in the engine compartment or near the ecu? Thats the only thing i can think of that differs between our setups (mine is at the ECU). Mabye you have a bad 1 wire o2?

-Todd

 

i took the o2 sensor, and added 2 equal length 16 gauge wires with a heavy duty connector, ran it to the ecu i cut the primary wire going into the ecu and crimped it to the wire going to the ecu, and then i added the 2nd wire to the secondary ecu pin.

since ive done this, 0 problems

 

thnx for the replies, guys. it was ******* jumped in the engine bay, so today ill go in there and somehow reverse the trouble and then jump them in the ecu side.

can anyone tell me what voltage i should be seeing on the O2 wire, so that i can troubleshoot
??

 

if you still have problems, about the best thing you could do is weld on two new bungs in the proper location. the only problem is that you have a 4-1, so i'm not sure if you could do this or not. all i know is i've heard people have problems when they move the sensor too far away.

 

You have a specific testing step to follow


Disconnect the suspected o2 sensor (in your case, the one.

Warm the car up to full operating temp. (fan comes on)

Measure voltage at the two indicated conditions:

The voltage should be above .5 v during wide open throttle acceleration

The voltage should be below .4 volts during closed throttle deceleration.(from 8000 rpm.

 

does anyone have any info on just removing the o2 all together?
i have it unplugged now, but havent been able to drive on it

 

I don't know that you can.

As you can see from my previous post, you will have to keep the voltage between .4 and .5 volts. The input would do nothing to adjust for the lean or rich condition of the car. That is what the o2 is doing when working properly and I think you need that for it to run at it's best.