I've got a 6psi JRSC setup right now.
I have the stock timing rolled back to 7 degrees and no band aid fixes or map mod or anything.

I'm going to be putting in some dsm 450's and hopefully trying out something to be able to ditch my fmu.(uber chip, vafc hack, smc+).

I was wondering what your timing setups are though?
Will the UberChips preset of 1 degree pulled per pound of boost suffice, or is that pulling back too much timing? I've heard of most JRSC guys with BTC's setting their timing to stock, and having it pull .7-.8 degrees per pound of boost.
Is this going to really make that much of a difference that the uberchip retards .2 degree more than most people's BTC settings?

 

bump

 

ttt

 

i thought that uberchip's design was fully adjustable and you could burn whatever map you want???

the only difference that you may see in adjusting it .2 more is possibly some reduced power. so in other words, by the time you're at 5psi, you'll be retarded 1 more degree than most setups. keep in mind though, better safe than sorry.

 

yea. The uberchip is adjustable but u have to send it in to him.

I was wondering though, because his original setting is 1 degree per pound of boost, and seeing what most JRSC GSR owners do for their timing setup their BTC to see if they find a different result working better.

 

Hmm, not true... just tell me how much u want retarded per lbs and I can set it at that automaticlly

 

Save you money and do it the right way , Get some kind of stand alone so you can take full contol over the timming and fuel.
There is not set amount of timming to pull out per pound of boost , alot of cars we tune we take timming out under boost then put timming back in after the vtec change over. Ever car is differant , Do it right the first time so you can get the power you want.
Stay away from band aids.


[Modified by CRVRX, 1:32 PM 3/31/2003]

 

well thats exactly what the JR BTC does. it pulls whatever amount of timing per lb of boost that you set it at, and then when vtec comes in, it puts the timing back.

 

so your runing 9 degree's of timing? Did you do this by turning your distributor?

uberchip and vafc to engage vtec.

Your best bet is to try differnet settings, .5 works for some and 1 works for others. The more timking that you can run the more power you'll make.

Do you ever run at Pacific Raceways?

 

Im at 7 degrees of timing. Thats what it had recommended in Jackson Racing's instructions when I installed it originally and was runnin california 91 octane (road trip to san diego). I did this by turning my distributor.

I should've bumped it up to 8 degrees since im back in WA now which runs 92 octane. Anyways, I'm sick of running retarded timing at idle & when not at full boost, and from running ridiculously rich from my current FMU setup.

Havent been to pacific raceways yet. I want to tho, to see what I'm running.
I've been more focused on SCCA autoX stuff around here more than anythin.

 

Wow correct me if i'm wrong but stock timing is set at 16 degrees rite?
I know it is for most honda's.(12 for some civics)
7 degres is killing your power big time. I was runing 12 degrees just to be safe and when i bumped it up to 14 it helped out a bit, not to mention driveability.Is your car really sluggish off the line (until you get going).....retarding you timing that way is not the best way to do it. it's cheap but costs you in power..I cant really speak because i'm doing the same rite now until my TRC-1 gets here later this week.

 

Yea. I know its killing my power. Since until I get to full boost, im running retarded.

I had to, since Im running basically the stock JR setup at the moment, no band aid fixes or map mod or anything except for colder plugs. I have no detonation at the time tho.
Ridiculously high fuel pressures from my stock injectors and FMU, and this retarded timing make my car sluggish sometimes unless its really cold outside then it pulls like crazy.
But its still stronger than stock even like that.
I just know that I havent even come close to unleashing the full potential of my JR setup because of this setup, and thats why im going to do the UberChip and post up my dyno slips afterwards.

 

Thats what i figured, as soon as you fix that it's going to be a whole new car..
Check out "Little Monsters" in marysville if you want a local place to get your car tuned on a dyno. They are a bunch of great guys down there, just tell them that i sent you down (white civic coupe) they will know who your talking about.

 

I don't want to upset anyone but, the BTC is a band aid. I have dynoed with it, it is inconsistant to say the least. It doesn't work very well.
Get a Standalone, it will be cheaper in the long run and give you more tunability.
Talk to anyone who makes good power, ask them what they use. I do this everyday, My job is to make power so I use what I know works the best.

 

i know this post is a lil' old, but...couldn't you just get the liquid intercooler system from jackson racing?? taken directly from jackson racings website: "Kill detonation – not performance! Forced induction increases throttle response and power throughout the entire rpm range. Unfortunately, more power equals more heat! Most people simply retard the timing to lower the heat, which results in power loss. Our liquid intercooling water injection system gives you the best of both worlds, with highly advanced timing for horsepower and a mist of water that lowers temperatures by 69-100 degrees.

 

Look at the price for that water injection system and the results from people that have used it. Shoa, it's good for killing the heat in the charger but for the $$$ it's best to save a little more and get a standalone.