i wanted to know how to adjust my timing for nos, i heard advance the exhaust and retard the intake, any suggestions?

 

hey what engine are you squeezing on??? well in any case, you would most likely be retarding your ignition timing 1 or 2 degrees at the most. 1 degree per 75 shot is recomended.

 

i believe he was talking about cam timing, not ignition timing. i have heard exhaust advance and intake retard as well but dont take my word because i have a SOHC. i believe the best power on this will be shown by retarding the cam timing however i havent made it to the dyno since i put it in last week.

 

im squeezing on a b18

 

No No, he needs to retard his ignition timing. Cam gear tuning is merely for tuning. Ignition timing is so his car wont detonate. To answer your question I'd prolly retard it 2 degrees or so.

 

What kit are you using? If you are using the NOS kit, I would probably retard it 2 degrees. It all depends on the shot you are running. On my LS, I'm running a 100 shot with no timing retard. The NX fuel solenoid adds enough fuel, so the timing retard isn't necesary.

God Bless Nitrous Express!

 

100 shot on the ls.?? wow. what are ur upgrades if u dont mind me asking. and yes the NX is wonderfull.

 

I never said he didn't need to retard the ignition timing. I hope he already knows this. If you go back and read his original post, he talks about exhaust and intake timing, which would be cam timing. Which is what his question is about. Not ignition timing.

 

im runing a 100 shot, i was told for the distributor timing you should retard it 2 degrees per 25 shot, only if its over a 50 shot, so ten degrees for a 100 shot, i ran 13 degrees last night on a 75 shot, had no problems, its now the car sputters when i drive it normal and the check engine light comes on after i sqeeze i think its my idle control valve cause they had to do some stuff to it when putting on the str throttle body, im saving to get it tuned on the dyno, i think i might need to re adjust my afc too and maybe tune the cam gears for the best result


[Modified by ekgsrforu, 2:40 AM 4/5/2003]


[Modified by ekgsrforu, 2:42 AM 4/5/2003]

 

I think Hot compacts and Imports (HCI), has like 12 pages devoted this month to nitrice, . The talk about installation, timing, everything. take a look at the magazine, it twards the back.

 

Yes the best thing for the Cam timing is "Go to the Dyno" for best results for the ignition 50 shot = factory settings 75 shot 1/2 degree 100 shot 1 or 2 with 1 step colder spark plugs on 92 octane.. Hope that helps ya...

 

as for cam timing, i went with a bunch of settings to see what made the broadest N/A and N2O powerband. i used OEM P72 cams on my GSR motor, along with OEM IM, TB and 100 shot NOS DP kit. in the end i had +2 on the exhaust cam and +1 on the intake cam. those cam timing settings worked fine for my GSR setup. power came in at 3K and lasted til redline, on and off the bottle. accurate tuning for the cam timing should be done on a dyno, but playing with it yourself can still be worth it. i never used a dyno cause they're not local.

on the ignition timing side i used 12 degrees BTDC with an MSD ignition system and NGK BKR7E-11 plugs gapped at .035". this was with a 100 direct port system and a Walbro 255 pump. for a 75 shot 2-3 degrees of retard is all you need if the fuel is there. about 2 degrees for every 50 shot. on 92-94 octane fuel also.

 

right now im running a jspec b18c with a str 70mm throttle body, skunk 2 intake manifold bored to 70mm, itr cold air intake, ctr intake cam, itr aem cold air intake, b and m fuel pressure regulator, jdm itr headers, greddy sp cat back(no cat), aem cam gears (currently set at zero), msd 6al ignition box with blaster coil and distrubutor, ngk bcpr7es-11 spark plugs, and apexi v-afc, im kinda over the nos for a while at least( i just love all motor power, its always there) i plan on getting a sce single layer head gasket, prelude injectors, chipped p30 computer, and retuning the the apexi v-afc to 8200 rpm maybe 8400( i got stock valve train) along with the cam gears, with this do you think i could run a 50 shot safely or maybe a 75 shot?

 

oh yeah the nos system is nos and its a wet fogger system

 

running a 50 shot or even 75 shot shouldn't be a problem with your setup. with the cam timing at 0/0 it should be fine. since it's a wet system it will have it's dedicated fuel solenoid so that it doesn't run lean. i'm sure with the right ignition timing and mixture that you could safely use up to a 75 shot. but if you're using a chipped ECU watch out and make sure it doesn't advance the ignition timing too much.

 

i think the computer ima get advances the timing and adds more fuel when the vtec engages, (skunk 2 program) ive used this program on my car before and boy does it burn gas, i think if i tune the cam timing and afc with the skunk 2 program with the bigger injectors i think i could get away with a 75 shot if i retard it to 10 degrees. i might just run a baby 30 or 40 and have no retard with it set up for maximum all motor power. it should be okay.

 

it should be ok with tuning, just be careful with the ECU program when it advances the ignition timing. sometimes using several different tuning devices doesn't help either. like the AFC/VAFC along with a chipped ECU and larger injectors. best thing to do is spend a couple hundred $$ and use just a Hondata tuned ECU matched for the injectors you want to use.

 

what model is that hondata that just came out for nos that retards the timing when certain things are met like specific engine speed, nos armed, right air/fuel ect. ?

 

why would there be a problem tuning a chipped ecu with a afc?

 

well the AFC works but tuning with Hondata and a wideband O2 is much better.
everything's in the ECU, and all you have to do is tune and burn. i'm not fond of the AFC and VAFC units. they're just not worth it for the $$ IMO. a Hondata setup isn't too much more and it tunes the fuel and ignition over a broader area etc.

as for the new Hondata system for N2O injection, i haven't read about it so i'm not sure as to what it does exactly.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ekgsrforu &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what model is that hondata that just came out for nos that retards the timing when certain things are met like specific engine speed, nos armed, right air/fuel ect. ?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is the S200, I just ordered one from 2k_teg, the minute i found out about the new nitrous control. It's especially good for a dry system (which is what i have) so that you can tune bigger injectors to supply the fuel instead of raising the fuel pressure. It does this along with ignition retard ONLY when the nitrous is activated. Therefore you can drive around with nice all motor settings, then when you flip the switch and go WOT the hondata automatically retards ignition and adds the extra fuel. It also allows you to set a speed requirement and rpm requirement for nitrous to engage, perfect for traction and protecting your motor from engagement of nitrous below 3000rpm.

You can read more about it at http://www.hondata.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It is the S200, I just ordered one from 2k_teg, the minute i found out about the new nitrous control. It's especially good for a dry system (which is what i have) so that you can tune bigger injectors to supply the fuel instead of raising the fuel pressure. It does this along with ignition retard ONLY when the nitrous is activated. Therefore you can drive around with nice all motor settings, then when you flip the switch and go WOT the hondata automatically retards ignition and adds the extra fuel. It also allows you to set a speed requirement and rpm requirement for nitrous to engage, perfect for traction and protecting your motor from engagement of nitrous below 3000rpm.

You can read more about it at http://www.hondata.com</TD></TR></TABLE>

cool, good info. i remember hearing about some features like that on the old Hondata stage 2, but it wasn't nearly as flexible.