Ok heres the deal...Rebuilt the Engine checked all the timming marks every thing lines up. Set all the plugs on the valve cover cranked the car they all fired and went in the right order. Put the plugs in the motor. Tryed to start it.... It just cranks and cranks and cranks dosent want to turn over. So I went and checked all the fuses and none were blown. So we cranked it some more. The gauge on the rail reads 50psi, theres spark, so im thinking my injector wiring is wrong. But I put a yellow and black wire with a red and black wire coming out of each clip, and hooked the two remaining ones together. and the resistor box is wired how hondatas site said. I know the injectors work cause they came right off a friends car. I still think my wiring is wrong could someone post a close up of there clips installed. Cause on the stock honda injectors the yellow and black wire is on the right but I have that wire going into the left on the dsm one.....cause when I put the clip on the dsm one thats what side it happened to be on so i wired it up that way.... please help me.

 

If its not starting and you take out a plug you should see and smell fuel at the top of the piston. Also with the plug out stick it on the plug wire and hold it against the block.(be careful) Then when you try to start it you will see if you really have spark.

Steve

 

I have spark thats not the problem. I think I just mixed up the wires at the clip. Just need a confirmation that the yellow and black wire goes on the left or right side of the clip.


[Modified by BVM, 2:55 PM 3/17/2003]

 

Right wire to right wire... left to left. Ignore the colors and you'll be

Please at least tell me that you've had those injectors cleaned

 

injector polarity doesnt matter

 

do you have these clips?



if so these if how I got them wire, I cut all the wires that were yellow with the black line on them.... wire all four wire that i just cut to the resistor box


then from the resistor I have four black wires coming out each clip red with black line wire

you can't really tell on this picture how they are though...



HTH


[Modified by LJR-LUDE01, 2:15 PM 3/17/2003]

 

I'm having a similar problem, but i know my injector wiring is correct because we used the same odb1 clips i already was using...it cranks but wont turn over for some reason, spark is good because we did the above mentioned tactic...

no bad fuses or wires....im at a loss for words also lol..

 

After you crank it over, check the plugs and see if you can smell fresh gas on the ends.

 

this might sound stupid but did you check the firing order from the distributor? if you did that wrong the motor will just turn over and over and wont start.

 

are you sure you have fuel to the rail, if you have the banjo bolt slightly turned the wrong way, you will have tons of pressure to the banjo bolt that bolts to the fuel rail but no pressure inside the fuel rail. might check that. here is a picture of mine incase I did a poor job of describing it.



[Modified by turbotec, 9:27 PM 3/17/2003]

 

u sure? I thought that was the purpose of the banjo bolt, to avoid any orientation of direction...

I could be wrong, i dunno

 

Check your plugs to see if they are getting wet with fuel. Take a wire and plug or old plug to make sure you have spark to a good ground and crank the motor. Make sure your motor is gronded correctly and you didn't forget to put one on.

 

Well I dont have a banjo bolt I am using earl fittings screwed into my AEM Rail. Yes the plugs are in the right firing order on the dist.
34
12

As I said b4 there is spark I ALREADY checked that.

 

Why wouldnt polartiy matter..isnt an injector like a solinoid and if switch it then it would be closed on start up instead of open..... Im just want to know alittle more b4 I go hack my harness up some more.

 

If there spark and fuel then the car should start up. Check to see if you the plugs are all wet, meaning the injectors are opening up and releasing fuel.

So if you have spark and fuel and it wont start still, check the ecu. You might have a bad ecu or check the injectors.

After that, make sure all the grounds are connect, such as your tranny ground wire etc.

HTH


[Modified by ekb18c, 7:49 PM 3/17/2003]

 

who built your motor? do a compression check. when i built my first motor that was my problem. low compression. it was due to the rings not wanting to seat properly. it's just a thought.

 

I built it...But it hasnt even turned over yet.....So of course the rings arent seated yet...

 

try doing this...pour a like a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder and then try cranking it. don't worry this won't hurt the motor at all. that is how i got my motor to start. did that and it started right up. just trying to give helpful hints/advice that's all.

 

hondata's diagram for wiring the resistor didnt work for us. the wire ocations were different. you should double check yours with a multimeter and check to see if all the appropriate injector wires are right

 

I also say pull the plugs and see if you smell any fuel on them. Double check those injector wires. I thought the blk/yellow wire went on the right of each injector clip(closer to the timing belt side)? I'm pretty sure thats how all of mine are.

 

Ok well I went and got a multimeter today...Now how do I use this thing, sorry not into electronics.

 

The stock honda injectors have a resistance of about 10 - 13 right? Well I stuck a probe in the injector clip and a probe on the ground wire coming off the resistor box and it read 6.3 then I check the injector itself and it read about 2.6. 2.6 + 6.3 equals 8.9 which is way short of 10. Which means the injectors aren't opening at all correct?

 

If you are getting fuel and spark make sure your cams are in right.
If you put the intake cam in wrong it won't fire .

 

If I put it in wrong it wouldn't turn either. Theres only one way it goes in. Thanks for trying to help thoguh.

 

Well I tryed switching the wires around on the injectors and still the same ****. Just cranks and cranks...So im down to either the the ECU is dead some how...
Or the resistor box + injectors are not = 10 - 13 ohms.

Any other input would be great.