22mm USDM VS. 23mm JDM, does it make a "BIG" different?
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From: Toronto / Hong Kong
just wondering if anyone have experience with the 2 pieces, and how does it make a different.............
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
just wondering if anyone have experience with the 2 pieces, and how does it make a different.............
several people on the board have stepped up to the 23 and seem to like it quite a bit.
just wondering if anyone have experience with the 2 pieces, and how does it make a different.............
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
119%... do a search...
Quote from an archived thread:
There are two primary factors that determine an anti-roll bar's torsional stiffness: the diameter of the bar and the length of the bar's moment arm. Diameter is generally the easiest concept to grasp, as it is somewhat intuitive that a larger diameter bar would have greater torsional rigidity.
Torsional (or twisting) motion of the bar is actually governed by the equation: twist = (2 x torque x length)/(p x diam4 x material modulus.) And since the diameter is in the denominator, as diameter gets larger, the amount of twist gets smaller. Which, in a nutshell, means that torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.
For example, to compare the rigidity of a 22mm to a 23mm one, simply use the equation 23^4/22^4. Some quick math yields the figure of 1.19. In other words, a 23mm bar is 1.19 times as stiff-or 19 percent stiffer-than a 22mm bar of the same design.
This information can be found at http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html
Torsional (or twisting) motion of the bar is actually governed by the equation: twist = (2 x torque x length)/(p x diam4 x material modulus.) And since the diameter is in the denominator, as diameter gets larger, the amount of twist gets smaller. Which, in a nutshell, means that torsional rigidity is a function of the diameter to the fourth power. This is why a very small increase in diameter makes a large increase in torsional rigidity.
For example, to compare the rigidity of a 22mm to a 23mm one, simply use the equation 23^4/22^4. Some quick math yields the figure of 1.19. In other words, a 23mm bar is 1.19 times as stiff-or 19 percent stiffer-than a 22mm bar of the same design.
This information can be found at http://www.grassrootsmotorsports.com/swaybars.html
23mm is 19% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 95.1% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 63.3% stronger than 23mm
[Modified by Chris N, 4:26 PM 2/12/2003]
i have the 26mm front and 23mm rear on my EG their both jdm and i havent really tested them to the potential, since i upgrade few days ago from nothing but just first drive was definitely
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i have the 26mm front and 23mm rear on my EG their both jdm and i havent really tested them to the potential, since i upgrade few days ago from nothing but just first drive was definitely
119%... do a search...
This is incorrect. It is stronger/less resistant to flex by a FACTOR of 1.19, which means it is 19% stronger.
This is incorrect. It is stronger/less resistant to flex by a FACTOR of 1.19, which means it is 19% stronger.
For the money it is hard to beet the 23mm bar if your setup warrants it.
If you are running with the stock 22mm bar and suffer from mild under-steer in conditions where some over-steer would be preferred then the 23mm bar will definitely help. If you suffer from massive under-steer then you will need to approach the solution differently. The difference between the two bars is subtle but very noticeable if your driving the car at its limits.
Having felt the difference between the two bars on the same car I can say that the 23mm bar is near perfect for my setup. Going to 26mm without other changes would be going to far. The 24mm might work well but for the price... I'll just add 1-2psi in the rear and get some free rotation.
If you are running with the stock 22mm bar and suffer from mild under-steer in conditions where some over-steer would be preferred then the 23mm bar will definitely help. If you suffer from massive under-steer then you will need to approach the solution differently. The difference between the two bars is subtle but very noticeable if your driving the car at its limits.
Having felt the difference between the two bars on the same car I can say that the 23mm bar is near perfect for my setup. Going to 26mm without other changes would be going to far. The 24mm might work well but for the price... I'll just add 1-2psi in the rear and get some free rotation.
so for subtle corner exit understeer which I try to correct with throttle (caution)
the the rear bar would help how is that please enlighten me I was begining to think I needed a front bar
ohh and is the front one same as JDM one?
btw where can I get them?thanks!
the the rear bar would help how is that please enlighten me I was begining to think I needed a front bar
ohh and is the front one same as JDM one?btw where can I get them?thanks!
Yeah I felt a differance when I upgraded to the 23mm swaybar. It was not a dramatic differance in handling but you could feel that the rear of the car wanting to come around alittle more when you corner hard. Actually I think they should have put them on the USDM Type Rs as standard equipment.
the jdm front bar is a bit larger too as well isnt it? if it is different from the usdm, it may be well worth it to balance the car out more by switchin to that... that way you would stay grounded without as much tendency to swing out.
the jdm front bar is a bit larger too as well isnt it? if it is different from the usdm, it may be well worth it to balance the car out more by switchin to that... that way you would stay grounded without as much tendency to swing out.
**Note: YES, you can actually feel the difference between the rear 22/23mm bar, even on the street if you have a few nice undeveloped and newly paved business districts near your home
For me, it made about the same difference in feel as adding the JDM rear strut bar (borrowed one for the expo last year) when I had fully stock suspension.That reminds me - anybody have a JDM rear strut bar they need to get rid of???
email me with a price at jeff@itrca.com if you do.
so for subtle corner exit understeer which I try to correct with throttle (caution)
the the rear bar would help how is that please enlighten me I was begining to think I needed a front bar
ohh and is the front one same as JDM one?
btw where can I get them?thanks!
the the rear bar would help how is that please enlighten me I was begining to think I needed a front bar
ohh and is the front one same as JDM one?btw where can I get them?thanks!
The overall effect is increased corner speed because you are not fighting with under-steer throughout the corner.
Hope that made sense...
Using the info above -
23mm is 19% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 95.1% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 63.3% stronger than 23mm
[Modified by Chris N, 4:26 PM 2/12/2003]
23mm is 19% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 95.1% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 63.3% stronger than 23mm
[Modified by Chris N, 4:26 PM 2/12/2003]
Using the info above -
23mm is 19% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 95.1% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 63.3% stronger than 23mm
[Modified by Chris N, 4:26 PM 2/12/2003]
so that would mean for us little civic people upgrading to the itr 22mm bar from 13mm would be a 720% stronger bar
23mm is 19% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 95.1% stronger than 22mm
26mm is 63.3% stronger than 23mm
[Modified by Chris N, 4:26 PM 2/12/2003]
so that would mean for us little civic people upgrading to the itr 22mm bar from 13mm would be a 720% stronger bar
VX hatch with 22mm itr rear sway and no front sway - interesting ride.
that would be splitime's hatch right?
that must be a little scary...
Which is probably why you need the bsq/beaks reinforcement kit!
VX hatch with 22mm itr rear sway and no front sway - interesting ride.
that must be a little scary...
Which is probably why you need the bsq/beaks reinforcement kit!
VX hatch with 22mm itr rear sway and no front sway - interesting ride.
that would be splitime's hatch right?
that must be a little scary...
that must be a little scary...

I have a feeling the car will be much more balanced when all the suspension sitting in my garage goes on the car.
that car needs balance... the drop might help a bit, but a front sway bar would be optimal.
It's Dave's, yep. It's not scary... its fun.
I have a feeling the car will be much more balanced when all the suspension sitting in my garage goes on the car.
It's Dave's, yep. It's not scary... its fun.

I have a feeling the car will be much more balanced when all the suspension sitting in my garage goes on the car.
Got an IM about my setup so I figured I would post my response here for interests sake.
My current setup includes Zeal 2B coilovers with the stiffer of the two sets of springs available (12kg/mm - 8kg/mm if I remember correctly), Skunk2 front camber kit, rear camber kit, and the 23mm RSB.
Currently I run on Kumho 205x50x15s on the stock wheels set at equal tire pressure front and rear ~38-40psi hot. My alignment settings are ~2.5deg camber in front ~1.5deg in the rear with 1/8th toe out front and back. Typically I set the shocks to 5-5 or 6-6. Before the 23mm bar went in I needed to offset the shocks to 5F-6R for a similar (yet compromised) effect.
The 23mm bar was a big help in getting the car to rotate into corners. Vehicle slip angle is then adjusted through the corner with throttle modulation. Corner exit is a very smooth transition from over-steer to under-steer as I squeeze the gas.
These corner dynamics apply to most slow to med-high speed corners that don’t have any elevation or camber changes.
Hope I didn’t give to much away
(expo coming up and all)
My current setup includes Zeal 2B coilovers with the stiffer of the two sets of springs available (12kg/mm - 8kg/mm if I remember correctly), Skunk2 front camber kit, rear camber kit, and the 23mm RSB.
Currently I run on Kumho 205x50x15s on the stock wheels set at equal tire pressure front and rear ~38-40psi hot. My alignment settings are ~2.5deg camber in front ~1.5deg in the rear with 1/8th toe out front and back. Typically I set the shocks to 5-5 or 6-6. Before the 23mm bar went in I needed to offset the shocks to 5F-6R for a similar (yet compromised) effect.
The 23mm bar was a big help in getting the car to rotate into corners. Vehicle slip angle is then adjusted through the corner with throttle modulation. Corner exit is a very smooth transition from over-steer to under-steer as I squeeze the gas.
These corner dynamics apply to most slow to med-high speed corners that don’t have any elevation or camber changes.
Hope I didn’t give to much away
(expo coming up and all)Thread
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