Well me and my friend have been working on his '96 LS integra, and as far as i know, everything looks good. There are a few plugs left over from the automatic wiring harness that i'm not too sure about, as well as 2 plugs on the clutch pedal that are unused. I think they are for overriding the neutral lock. but since there don't appear to be anything to plug into them, we've left them unplugged.

the car has power, but the starter won't kick out and do its thing. can anyone with experience with this conversion help? we're about to try to push start it just to make sure it starts and runs properly, but we'd like to solve this issue very soon.

There is also a little white box that got replaced by the new (manual) clutch pedal. it says mitsuba inter lock. we plugged that in, and still it wouldn't start, but it also wouldn't let us take the key out of the ignition. i am wondering if we need to have that plugged in or not.

so to summarize... do we need to do something about the 2 plugs on the clutch pedal? does that white box need to be plugged in?

 

Sorry to ask a stupid question what ecu are you using?

 

thanks for the quick reply!

ecu is a '96 ls manual. as far as the obd stuff and general compatibility of electronics is concerned, i know nothing. but i'm pretty sure that this ecu should work.


EDIT: '98, not '96, my mistake



[Modified by carsaregood, 11:41 PM 1/11/2003]

 

Make sure you have the clutch start switch, make sure it's plugged in, and make sure it's properly adjusted. If just want to test it to see if the car will start, you can just push the switch with your finger and try to see if the starter will crank. If the switch is not pressed, no power will go to the starter.

 

sweet, i'll try that! one thing: where is the clutch start switch? and do you know if the automatic harness has a plug for it?

 

'98 manual ECU! not a '96

 

Gotta be the clutch start. On mine, if the cluctch isn't pressed all the way down the car doesn't even try to start.

 

Yup I'm pretty confident that is it. I had that problem with my car when I did the swap.

Check it out. Good luck.

 

check the ignition fuse...

 

jtrbocrx, you were so right. we got it started today by re-plugging in that slider, and setting it to "park." i'm not sure i understand this part of your post though:

"take the lower part of the steering coloum off below the key there you will find a screw in the bottom of key cylenderyou need to remove that screw and that will let you remove the key so the car dosent have to be in "park""

when you say key cylinder, is that where you put the key into the ignition? i don't really know the terminology. so if i take out that screw i can unplug that white box where the clutch pedal now resides?

thanks for all your help!!!

 

I think he was refering to the problem you had of not being able to take the key out...and I think that it was caused by the slider thing not being set to park cause in an auto if you have the shifter in neutral you won't be able to take the key out, but now that you have set it to park, do you still have the key problem?

 

i do not, the key comes out. ok that makes more sense now. do you guys with auto-manual swaps just leave the slider there? or do you have a cleaner, more permanent solution?

also, the reverse lights do not work, does anyone know how to wire those in? thanks again!


[Modified by carsaregood, 10:48 PM 1/12/2003]

 

did an auto to manual swap on a 91 integra. you have to bypass the neutral safety swich.All the wiring can be done at the shifter. On the transmission there's 2 wires that you have to run to the shifter wiring harness in order for reverse lights to work. Don't know for sure wire colors, can't help you there.

 

I'm planning to do the swap on my 95 teg this summer. I heard that the transmission mount for manual is different. How do you deal with that? get a manual and weld it? or it has a auto to manual tranny mount in the market? PLease advice.

 

yes indeed, there is a conversion mount made by Place Racing that we used. It is necessary because the manual tranny sits far lower than the auto, so its basically just stretched out.

other, factory, manual, mounts are needed as well. The right lower, the rear mount, and an "engine stiffener" were all needed, along with the corresponding bolts. A helms manual was MUCH help because the drawings are very accurate, and you can see the differences between the auto and manual.

there is a post on honda-tech that we referenced as well, by azn_flava.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=273253
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=264493

i'm sure there's more info here and there on h-t.. but this pretty much covers the whole conversion. feel free to ask questions!

 

this mite b a doubt question but u sure u are using a manual throttle body & ?

 

so let me get this straight, there is a way to do this swap w/o welding the manual mount in, cuz if so thats gonna save me like 400bux on labor, cuz i dont have to take it to a shop my friend(who doesnt know how to weld) can do it. please please direct me to the location where i can find this magical piece that solves my problem.

 

how much have you guys spent on the conversion? Planning to do it but worry about the budget.