Got my car back yesterday. The whole motor is brand spanking new(except valve cover, manifold, little stuff airbox etc.. The bill was pretty high about 5Gs. At first it sounded like a spoon. Like let me imitate this like zzzzzzzzzzzzzz when I drove. It took off after a while and im not letting my foot go down till about 1500 miles. Oh I did test it for the VTEC its there. boost will go in about 2500 Miles just to break it in. Oh its a B16a2 ...Oh why is the B16a2 painted orange. Thats wierd.

 

What kind of warranty did you get?

 

Does it really matter? We all know he will blow it up again.

 

Factory Cerified Warranty. oh im gonna take car of this. This is my plan . Run boost through a whole year with out blowing it up and save . 200 Bucks a month for 12Months. That 2400 and Ill just buy a spare motor or maybe build the one I have. Oh im only gonna run like 5-6Lbs .

 

I would really take a 2000-2500mile break-in period before even thinking of adding the boost to it.

 

Or......buy a $800 B20 long block and build that bottom end and throw your B16 head on there.

 

Or build a B16A Block because I dont want to deal with any custom downpipes and ****.

 

The only difference between a B20 and a B16 or any B for that matter is the bore and stroke.

B20 is a B16 with a larger bore and stroke.

 

What about the b18 block?

 

all you need is 20 miles to break in an engine....although i did make it too 170 before i started redlining it....since then i haven't backed down

 

Same size and shape, sensors are the same....the only diff between the B's is the crank's and bores.

All B's except the B20 are a 81mm bore.
The B20 is a 84 mm bore.
The cranks are different. THe 16 has the shortest stroke
Then the GSR and Type R
Then the LS and CRV (reason some favor the Frankenstein motors)

I'm telling you, just just need a different bottom end

 

I'm driving on a brand new motor as well (12 month warranty).

Boost will hopefully be before August.

 

**** I cant even keep my foot off the gas . I want my turbo in.