When taking out the battery last night we had to take off the rear fairings below the seat on both sides. And as we took them off we saw the cracks in the plastic (described in my other post) were worse then previously thought. I thought it was more of a crack in the paint, but its more like a crack in the plastic. Not a big deal though..

It seems like the guy tried to super-glue the pieces in place, but it didn't really hold.

What is the best, most secure way, to fix these cracks so the piece won't break off the next time I'm fiddling with the fairings? JB Weld? I know a picture is worth a thousand words but my Digital Camera got stolen.

 

I always take a very small drill bit (1/64") and drill a hole at the end of the crack to hopefully keep it from spreading. I haven't yet tried gluing any up, so can't offer any advice on which glues to use.

 

I've had limited experience with those glue guns. You may want to give it a try but be very carefull.

 

I'd have to see exactly what it was, but generally for cracks in the fairing, you sand the back of it down and carefully put thing sheets of fiberglass on to strengthen and support it.

Edit: Another way I've heard of, but havent tried, is to slowly build up layers of epoxy. It has the advantage of being able to flex. Which is nice, since fairings rattle a lot while you're riding.

Now if the tabs are broken, that's a different story.

If you go to http://www.sportbikes.net and do a search for fixing plastic or fixing fairings, you'll come up with a bunch of suggestions




[Modified by project_mercy, 5:23 PM 12/27/2002]

 

This might sound a little Macgyver-ish, but it works great on my F2. I bought some clear silicone adhesive stuff(Liquid Nails)....sticks anywhere. I sanded down the inside plastics where it was cracked. I applied a pretty good sheet of this stuff over the cracks and then used popsicle sticks(buy @ your local craft store) and ran them across the cracks. This provides good support since it prevents the plastics then from flexing. Give it a try.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. But, one of you says it's good for the plastic to flex, the other says it isn't.. do I want it stiff and strong and re-enforce it with popsicle sticks or something, or just epoxy it and stop? I don't have sheets of fiberglass laying around..

And no, they are not broken tabs.

Edit: From what I read it is supposed to stay somewhat flexible. Also, a lot of people seem to use crazy glue and baking soda. Apparently it causes some sort of checmical reaction that causes a lot of heat and starts to melt the plastic back together some. Would this be better then epoxy, or can I use epoxy and baking soda and whatever? Should I also drill a small hole?


[Modified by nerdish, 3:26 PM 12/28/2002]

 

depends on where the damage is and how the fairings are setup. As you know there are certain areas that vibrate a lot at speed and there are some (usually around mount tabs) that must be stiff to support the rest of the plastic shell. Use your own descretion w/ that judgement as it doesn't sound like the current damage is worse than asthetic. If you know a good welder/auto tech/ body guy then you could ask if he could plastic weld the crack from inside. The small drill is a good way to stop the damage from being opened up further from riding. Kind of like a field dressing to stop the bleeding. Plastic welding is getting very mainstream where I am and the personal welders are getting quite affordable. I'm sure somebody around you is experienced w/ the practice. If you have no other leads, try asking around the saturn dealership or if they have a club of owners or something. Dent resistant panels... plastic fairings. Good luck


[Modified by tonydatyga, 3:17 PM 12/28/2002]

 

If I were to drill a hole, is it supposed to go all the way through the plastic? Or start on the inside and stop somewhere before I get all the way through?

 

the hole is a stress relief, it goes all the way through.

 

Yup, as small as possible but big enough to cover the widest width of the crack in the 1" nearest the end you are drilling. You'll do fine just winging it.

 

The cracks are both right by mounting tabs.. so that area needs to be stiff and secure.

Ok here's my plan:
1) Sand/dremel the old glue off and get the back of the surface kind of roughed up
2) Drill a small hole at the end of the crack
3) Cut a fiberglass mat to fit the area (it's pretty small)
4) Apply epoxy, apply the fiberglass, apply more epoxy and make sure the fiberglass is stuck to the plastic really good
5) Wait for it to dry
6) Maybe add another piece of fiberglass over the first..

This is the routine I came up with after surfing SBN for a while.

A lot of other people suggested finding somebody who can weld plastic.. maybe that will be attempt #2. Thoughts/suggestions to my plan before I start it?

Thanks.

Edit: A lot of people recommend ABS glue, because it works the best on the fairings because they are made of ABS plastic. I dunno anything about that.. would ABS glue work better then some epoxy?


[Modified by nerdish, 8:53 PM 12/29/2002]

 

#1 abs plastic weld
#2 abs plastic repair kit (I believe it is a two part epoxy)
#3 fiberglass behind and live with a hairline crack or resurface the front

Be very careful which glues you use, the chemicals in many superglues will melt/destroy abs plastic.

If you plan on repainting after fixing it, i would suggest plastic welding, or abs repair glue/epoxy. Simply fiberglassing the back and bondoing the surface will flex and crack the new clearcoat. I know from first hand experience
Good luck

 

No, I don't plan on repainting the fairing. If I was gonna I would probably just buy new plastic, the pieces aren't /that/ expensive. Plastic welding and painting and such would probably cost more.

I'll look into ABS Plastic glue repair stuff..

Edit: cbrman, do you realize you've answered just about EVERY question I've asked. Thanks.


[Modified by nerdish, 10:24 AM 12/30/2002]

 

I dropped my blade and have fibreglass'd the inner panel. Works a treat.

 

lol, that's cause the questions you are asking are about a bike that i know inside and out.

I have repaired/painted an f2, and there was a crack in my 929 upper that had been repaired/repainted without my knowledge. When i just recently had the 929 resprayed, the clear stress cracked where the plastic was not welded.

You saw that post i put up about the tail fairings for your bike right? I would spend the 180 to get new panels then put yours for sale on ebay.

the tail on your bike is on 97/98 f3's only and are more desirable. They look more up to date. I have seen damaged ones go for more than the cost of new ones on ebay.......

 

The first time I read your other post I didn't see the other prices for the Ron Ayers plastic. $180 isn't too bad.. but I don't see very high prices for tail fairings on Ebay. Looks like there is a left/right pair out there going for about $20/each now with a little damage..

 

Remember, there is a difference in tails between the early f3's and the 97/98 model.

the 91-94f2 and the 95-96 f3 used the rounded tailsection whereas the 97/98 used the pointy tailsection. I am converting my tailsection to 97/98 style and I have been watching the tails on ebay for about 6 months. New ones on ebay are going for more than new ones on ron ayers. used/damaged ones go for anywhere from 50-125.

The reason the older ones are cheaper is because they were produced from 91 to 96, they are more readily available.

Keep an eye on this auction if this is the side you need. This is the only 97/98 style tail i saw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=1876230990

 

I forgot that the F3's had different tail pieces.

And for that auction, where is the fuel tank sticker that says off/reserve/on? Hmmm..

 

some people take off all the stickers to make it look a little cleaner. Email em and ask for more pics. I would bet that by auction end, it goes for 100-150. I have seen a three piece tailsection go for 250 on ebay.

 

Yeah, I need both the left and right sides so maybe I shouldn't bid on this auction.

 

that was with a little rash on one of the tails. If you can get it cheaper than buying new go for it. If not buy new ones from ron ayers.