question about shaving side moldings
i am getting a new paint job real soon and wanted to get my side moldings shaved. i dont want them filled in but i want the molding off and the holes filled in. is there a good way to do this. has anyone done it themselves? i brought it to my friends body shop and they said that its tough cuz you slam the doors and it might break off. Ive seen it done plenty of times on this board. i did a search and nothing came up about taking the moldings out and filling in the holes. can anyone help.
I don't know how he did it, but my friend has 2 CRX's with shaved moldings and both are daily driven and get lots of door slammings, and so far no problems.
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Here's my .02 cents about shaving moldings. If possible, don't do it. But if you want to remove the moldings then its all right in my book. I'm a part time automotive body man.
There's this adhesive much like jb weld and epoxy. It's called "Fusor". Found at any hardcore automotive body shop; in tubes which have to be mixed together.
It's stronger than most welds. My friends body shop did a "Fusor" test. We seam welded a fairly thick gauge of sheet metal and "Fusored" another sheet to it. A few taps with a sledge hammer on both ends, and the weld broke before the adhered side. We use this product to fill in moldings, handles, and anything else which welding could damage.
I've done DC moldings before. Moldings out, there are the holes left over. I just "Fusored" a few pieces of aluminum sheet metal from the inside and resined the rest from the out side. The first car I did was a second gen DA, which I molded his handles using Fusor. Given the intense abuse of car handles, you would think it would've cracked, but it's been 1.5 years with no complaints.
Well, hope this helps.
There's this adhesive much like jb weld and epoxy. It's called "Fusor". Found at any hardcore automotive body shop; in tubes which have to be mixed together.
It's stronger than most welds. My friends body shop did a "Fusor" test. We seam welded a fairly thick gauge of sheet metal and "Fusored" another sheet to it. A few taps with a sledge hammer on both ends, and the weld broke before the adhered side. We use this product to fill in moldings, handles, and anything else which welding could damage.
I've done DC moldings before. Moldings out, there are the holes left over. I just "Fusored" a few pieces of aluminum sheet metal from the inside and resined the rest from the out side. The first car I did was a second gen DA, which I molded his handles using Fusor. Given the intense abuse of car handles, you would think it would've cracked, but it's been 1.5 years with no complaints.
Well, hope this helps.
Bondo fills em right up! Those thing are hard as rock when it dries, so I doubt they will fall off if you slam the door.
there's also a product called DURAMIX, but you need a special gun for it. and the DURAMIX tube is about $30-40. Pretty expensive. how much is that FUSOR?
About $35 here in hawaii @ napa (waipahu)
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