Ok, I just installed the 450cc injectors, Walbro 255lph HP pump and tuning with a VAFC. I have a 2000 Civic EX boosting at 10psi, but I am getting a CEL 45 when I start to get into boost. I have removed the Missing Link as the mod suggests, but am considering reinstalling so I can at least get past emissions coming up in less than a month.

My VAFC is set-up as follows:
N and W Throttle : 98% and 99% respectively
Narrow and Wide Throttle(same) trim settings are as follows:
1K-4.5K: -40
5K-6K: -38
6.5K-7.5K: -36

I am afraid to go much leaner on fuel than that because i am relying on an Autometer A/F gauge to monitor.

I have been told that 99-00 Civics have this problem of throwing a CEL 45 (too rich/to lean) code when using the AFC Hack. Other models like the 89-96 Civics do not have this problem. I assume this is because the ECU is actually the OBDII series 2 and it is more particular than the OBDII series 1 ECU's in the 96-98 Civics.

I absolutely love this mod as you can see in my sig, but only need to get the CEL to be temporarily removed for a month so I can passs my emissions test in less than a month. So, once again i am considering putting the Missing Link back on but am not sure what this will do to the car. Anybody have the same problem I am or anybody able to remedy this problem please respond.

Thanks

 

Do you have the standard 255 pump or the hi pressure 255 pump?

I have the hi pressure 255 pump and I threw a 45 and a 1 cuz I was running too rich. The fuel press at idle was around 50psi so I got a FPR and turned it back down to stock.

 

Yeah, i have the HP fuel pump. I have an AEM FPR but have not installed it yet, I will probably do that then.

 

dude im in houston also i wanna see ur setup if u dont mind.

 

Check the sig, you can see when we meet and check it out then.

Now, back to the CEL code... Some of you must have some answers to this.

 

what's your Vtec crossover at? could be when you're dumping more fuel in a VTEC...at what rpm in boost does it throw the code at?

 

Ever since I put on the FPR I haven't thrown a CEL yet. I installed the pump in June and I've thrown about 8 CEL's total. The HP will just raise your fuel pressure. Install the FPR and turn the FP back to stock and you should be good to go. BTW, what turbo are you running?

 

I'm running a t3/t04b turbo.

My Vtec crossover is set at the stock range, which I forget.

I am planning to install the FPR, but I was sent the wrong one so I am wating for the shop to send me another so i can install it. Until then I wil see what happens when I install the Missing Link again, totally defeating the purpose of the Hack, but if it prevents a CEL code at least until the day after my inspection I am happy. The other thing I might try is leaning it out a bit more on the top end and staying out of boost for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the reply's fellas, hopefully this will work out.

 

Why can't you just reset your ECU right before you go?

 

I've reset my ECU 3 times in the last 3 days, just by unplugging the negative battery terminal and the damn thing keeps coming back to haunt me if I even get close to 30% throttle. Its like if I get on the throttle a little(not hard) it will go off, kinda like the MAP is richening it up a bit more than what I want.

Would I get a CEL 45 if I was running too lean?

 

unpluging the battery may not be enough.. have u tryed to unplug the ecu fuse. (in engine bay) this is more accurate than unpluging ur battery

 

Well, the CEL light does not come when starting the car up just after unplugging the negative battery cable. It will appear again after driving though. Yesterday, I reset the ECU and went home(5-10 miles) then went back to work the next morning and it came back on. So I reset it this morning and it comes back on. So I reset it as I am leaving work, I drive to the other side of town and make my way back home and just as I get into boost a bit it comes back on. So, I dunno if unplugging the ECU fuse will do much. I could try, but that is not the solution in my mind.

 

The cel 45 might indicate a toasted 02 sensor too. Thats the first check in the honda manual. This may or may not help.

 

Well, how can unplugging the fuse be "more accurate" than removing the negative terminal from the battery? If there is no connection to the batteries negative terminal, its guaranteed not to get any power. With the ECU you have to pull two fuses, and you'll get the same thing.