I'm looking for the SKU or code for the NGK plugs that are one temperature range cooler than stock for a B18C5.

Anyone??

 

This one? PFR7G-11 honda part # 98079-5714H

 

One temperature range cooler than stock?

 

Doesnt the number in the middle dictate temp range? So like a PFR6 G-11 would be one step colder than a PFR7G-11?

 

The stock plug is either an NGK PFR6G-11 or a Denso PK20PR-L11.

I'm pretty sure that the last number (11) is indicative of the heat range, and that the step one colder would be something 09,
two steps colder would be an 07 (for turbos). HTH Ed

I could be wrong ...


[Modified by Zygspeed, 3:07 PM 11/29/2002]

 

Yes, im right. the last number is the gap, middle number is heat range.

 

the last number indicates the gap and the middle number indicates the heat range

HOTTER
PFR5G-11
PFR6G-11
PFR7G-11
COLDER







[Modified by Junior R, 2:33 PM 11/29/2002]

 

Yup he is right. Kinda like a higher # FD = lower top speed. Somewhat counter intuitive.

 

NGK #2380 #7 platinums

 

$11.92 from hparts.com

ouch!

 

the last two numbers are gap size 1.1mm

 

for denso 20 is the heat range, you would want ik22 or ik24 or denso...

ik22 = 7 heat range, and ik24 = 8 heat range



[Modified by G i DouBLe F, 2:16 PM 11/29/2002]

 

Go for NGK Iridium
BKR6EIX-11 Stock # 3764 looks promising (although it's stock heat range). It's a little over $7 a plug and has a nice small electrode to help flame propagation.

They are available here
http://www.clubplug.net/retail_iridium_ngk.html

I don't see anything in an NGK 7 range plug.

 

I have the Spoon plugs (Iridiums) right now - but still have a lot of pre-ignition on 94 octane at low rpm load conditions. High rpm is fine (no pinging).

 

whats your base timing? maybe be better to im me for specific questinos
as internet access is limited.

 

Spark plug breakdown: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...tnumberkey.pdf

 

You want a 13 (1.3mm) gap. It's not a real big deal if you don't get the 13's...just saves you the hassle.

 

Timing is stock. Fuel pressure is about 46-50 (vacuum hose off) - but ECU (Hondata) was initially tuned at stock pressure (43 psi I think). Car ran well - but when I did some track days out of my area (and was forced to use 92 octane) I bumped up the fuel pressure.

The Hondata was tuned in-car using a wide band - I only asked for stoichiometric across the rpm range - I was really only interested in getting the fuel map cleaned up. Before I do some serious dyno tuning though - I want to get rid of this pre-ignition issue.

Thank goodness for the post on the EVAP purge solenoid - my swinging idle was getting on my nerves. Since I've disconnected the solenoid - the car idles like butta.

Other than plugs - what are the causes of pre-ignition? Should I retard my timing some more? Use a smaller gap on my plugs? Get the head ported more (still basically stock) - I have about 12:1 compression with the Endyn 81.5mm pistons I'm using....

 

NGK Iriway (0.6mm electrode) comes in a 7 (and 8) heatrange.

The 7 is BKR-E (Stock No. 4145); I would think AJR would have some in stock?

 

I dunno how you got the hondata tuned for stoich...but my guess even stoich for WOT, since you have pre-ig issues?

If thas the case then it's way too lean.... on slightly bumped CR I'm running closer to high 12s on the AF when I'm going WOT. The car just seems to like more gas (to a certain degree)

Plus the added fuel keeps things cool. Maybe I'm interpreting your post incorrectly, but I'd have your tuner put some more fuel in at WOT.... esp. with your "heady" CR