HELP: Alternatives for stock ITR ECU?
As many of you may know, my car was broken into and the whole interior was stolen. Well it appears that they got the ECU and injectors and fuel rail as well. I need to know if any other ECU's will work on the ITR by itself. Heres what I want to do for the time being if possible until I can get the car to another shop and get everything taken care of(not for several weeks, if not, months). So I was going to put the stock fuel rail and injectors back on, and I wanna know if any other ECU's can run the car. From what I have heard so far, there are no other ECU's I can use temporarily, and in fact, I cant even use another ITR ECU with my current keys for the car, due to the transponder in the ECU/keys. So I would have to get the ECU/Keys remapped(for lack of proper terminology) by a dealer so they can be used together. Now its my thinking, that if I could use, for example, a GSR ECU, they dont have transponders from what I know, so would that work?? Or maybe something else would work better? Maybe Kenji can make an ECU that would work for now? Any other suggestions are appreciated. I just want the car to be driveable, even if it runs like ****, because towing it from place to place has been a nightmare and isnt cheap. If I have to keep the revs down under 4K thats fine as long as it moves on its own.
I hope you got an insurance pay-off, 'cuz this is going to be expensive.
You should be able to find most of the stock stuff cheap since those parts are often changed out. Check the classifieds and/or put in a "Wanted" listing.
Aftermarket parts may also be cheaper than stock too. Stock fuel rail is sufficient for almost everyone, btw. You might want to e-mail Kenji directly.
If you have been thinking about building up the car, you might want to look at the AEM ECU since it is a replacement. It might be a good time to get late model Prelude injectors or RCI's and let the ECU lean them down.
You should be able to find most of the stock stuff cheap since those parts are often changed out. Check the classifieds and/or put in a "Wanted" listing.
Aftermarket parts may also be cheaper than stock too. Stock fuel rail is sufficient for almost everyone, btw. You might want to e-mail Kenji directly.
If you have been thinking about building up the car, you might want to look at the AEM ECU since it is a replacement. It might be a good time to get late model Prelude injectors or RCI's and let the ECU lean them down.
If you can get your hands on a harness (00-01 to 97-98 conversion), then run 97-98 ITR ECU. They don't check for chip in the key. Also, even if your key is chipped it can be used on any ECU that doesn't have immobilizer prog.
Another suggestion is to get OBD2-OBD1 harness + Kenji P28. I would've lent it to you, but I just sold it last week.
-Sean
Another suggestion is to get OBD2-OBD1 harness + Kenji P28. I would've lent it to you, but I just sold it last week.
-Sean
Any obd2 civic or integra ecu will work (vtec or non-vtec). You will get CEL but the car will still run about normal. The only problem is that it wont be making it's power.
OK so basically there doesnt appear to be a cheap or quick fix just to get the car running safely for the time being. I dont want to go through buying a whole harness and ECU from a 97-98 ITR just to get it going. I guess I will just wait until I can get some new injectors and rail, resplice the harness that they cut
and get the AEM ECU installed(which is why it was at the shop in the first place). If anyone has any other suggestions let me know. Thanks for the replies.
and get the AEM ECU installed(which is why it was at the shop in the first place). If anyone has any other suggestions let me know. Thanks for the replies.
I realize some of this may be sensitive information, and if anyone feels like they dont want to tell the whole world about what they happen to know or any tricks, if you could PM me I would appreciate it.
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you should be able to get the AEM to run the car with one of the base maps it provides.
For all the money you might spend to get a work-around for the Immobilizer, you could get the car towed to the shop we spoke about and have him start the the car in 10-15 mins and get a descent base tuning within another 20 mins.
[Modified by Christian, 11:38 PM 11/30/2002]
For all the money you might spend to get a work-around for the Immobilizer, you could get the car towed to the shop we spoke about and have him start the the car in 10-15 mins and get a descent base tuning within another 20 mins.
[Modified by Christian, 11:38 PM 11/30/2002]
Chris...Im planning on getting it down to that shop eventually, I just dont know how soon. Im just trying to check out some options right now. First things first, I gotta get someone to make some new injector wires and splice them into the harness
you think that shop could do that for me? if so maybe I could just tow it to them and they can hook me up and install the injectors and fuel rail.
[Modified by RTW DC2, 12:07 AM 12/1/2002]
you think that shop could do that for me? if so maybe I could just tow it to them and they can hook me up and install the injectors and fuel rail. [Modified by RTW DC2, 12:07 AM 12/1/2002]
Yes they can definitely get you up and running> The owner bleeds Honda. 80% of the cars they build are honda's. It isn't a typical mechanics shop. They special in building wild street and race Honda's. Just as the name states except throw in Road and Rally race too.
Just dropped my car off to have my Toda C's installed and hopefully dyno tuned for Monday. Right now they have a 590hp street driven Hatchback and a 220 hp all motor Full Rally Hatchback sitting on lifts.
[Modified by Christian, 1:36 AM 12/1/2002]
Just dropped my car off to have my Toda C's installed and hopefully dyno tuned for Monday. Right now they have a 590hp street driven Hatchback and a 220 hp all motor Full Rally Hatchback sitting on lifts.
[Modified by Christian, 1:36 AM 12/1/2002]
sweet man, I will definitely be in touch with you and maybe you can help me out or something. Its just a waiting game with the insurance right now, and I dont know if I should try to get it running temporarily for now just to be able to break it in some or if I should just wait til I can get the car to the shop. ahhhhhhhhhhhhh frustration.
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