I'm planning on running the AFC hack on my integra B18A1. How much should I retard the distributor? Planning on running 9.5 psi on stock internals.. using a saab t3 .42/.48 a/rs..

My buddy is also planning on doing the V-AFC hack on his D16Z6. He was wondering the same about timing.

We are both starting off running a 6.5 psi then later moving to a 9.5 psi spring.

Are we going to be ok with stock ignitions or do we need some sort of controller to retard timing per psi? Also we are both planning on using DSM turbo fuel pumps. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks guys!!

 

bump.. anyone? i know there's a bunch of people running the AFC hack.. vtec or not.. what have you had success with?

 

i ran 10 psi on my ls with 165000 miles on it and left the timing stock, never had detonation, but always ran the highest octane.

 

damn dude 10 psi with no retard? that's dangerous i't think.. my motor has 185k on it.. and i know it's gonna blow.. but it's worth the month or so . did you have the stock fuel pump? I'm curious on how upgrading the pump will affect the timing because i will need to go further into the negative on the AFC, but then won't have to worry about triggering the CEL correct?

 

I had a stock pump. The reason i blew mine is because was because some idot turned up the boost to 24 psi, but execpt that i never has detination. Have a back up motor, i got mine for 200. Leave the timing alone, unless you live in a really hot place.

 

sweet deal man.. that sux about someone turning up your boost.. i bet you were cruising when you hit 24 psi hehe... 200 bucks eh? hook me up man!! yeah i figure with the bigger pump i'll have more room to play with between the -35% and -50% limitations. i think i'm gonna retard a couple degrees and go from there.. assuming no detonation.

 

thats a good idea be on the safe side, the reason i got this motor so cheap is because I put in a b20 in my friends ls so he hooked me up. But look around you will find them prety cheap now days.

 

You won't really notice a couple of degree's of negative timing, plus you'll be on the safe side. Try 14 degrees.

Also, you may want to richen up the afc on the upper end at wot, again just to be safe. But these are tunning issues that you have to figure out by your self in the drivers seat.

good luck dude.

 

yeah i figured i'd start on the rich/retarded side.. and go from there.. i should lean it out first then slowly advance timing correct? Rather than the opposite?

 

when looking from the passenger side, towards the driver side, looking at the distributer...does turning it towards the drivers compartment add or subtract timing?

 

use a timing light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

i'm still kind of confused how the AFC hack affects the timing. I undersatnd it affects the MAP voltage which indirectly affects ecu by means of the MAP voltage. Maybe it's just the MAP sensor that I'm confused with. But why wouldn't a BTM fix this problem?

 

Turning the dizzy toward the firewall increases your timining, toward the front decreases it.

Get a timing light.

Running at BTM will do the job perfectly. I'm looking to get my hands on one as well in combination with the SMC, should be a decent set up for a home made turbo sohc vtec..............................

 

I'm trying to save money though.. think i may go without one for now.. i've heard so many good things without using a BTM.. why not give it a try..

what if i did use a check valve while using the AFC hack also? won't a check valve solve the problem of the timing advancing while boosting? at least it will stay put then?

 

the timing only advances with RPM because the stock ecu is set to. thats the problem with the AFC hack, your still using the stock timing maps. a checkvalve isn't made to go with the AFC hack.

also, my flywheel lost its TDC and timing marks since i got it lightened, which kinda pissed me off..all i have now is a "15" mark, and thats it..

 

ahh i see what you're saying.. so high rpms high boost is when it will be most advanced then huh? is there anyway to trick the timing map to think that it is always at say 2000 rpms.. only for timing though.. not for fuel map or anything else? just a shot in the dark.. they have to be able to make something like that..

is the signal sent to the distributor in a voltage reading? what if there was a way to hardwire a certain voltage in so that it didn't advance the timing?

 

yea, there is a way to "trick" it...get a MSD 6btm

 

the btm can't be that complicated.. are there any DIY kits? i'm all about saving some $.

 

you're right, it isn't that complicated...BUT, it will most likely be cheaper to buy a used one that to make it yourself. Solid state components that handle 20-30,000V (such as your ignitor) are damned expensive and you'd have to have a circuit that would increase the delay of the timing according to how much boost was sensed by the pressure sensor. I looked into making my own knock-retard device (similar, in ways), but the only help I could find was some instructions for a REALLY crude device that was RE-designed in the 80's, so good luck finding those chips, now...you can get a used BTM for a little over a $100, not a bad deal.

 

excellent thanks a lot man.. just curious what is your DIY fuel management?

 

If you skip the SAFC and just get the SMC and used BTM, that would prob be that same price as the afc alone.

the check valve does nothing for your timing, it just lowers the map voltage so yur ecu don't trip codes all the time while on boost.

 

gotcha.. i'm not a huge fan of the SMC.. never used it doesn't seem quite as good for fine tuning... 285 for the S-AFC shipped isn't bad anyway. I'm just not going to use a BTM