Code 4 D16Y7Z6 OBD1 issue
I have a z6 head on a y7 block with skunk 2 stage 2 camshafts, springs/retainers, cam gear, throttle body, intake manifold, vms fuel rail, vms fuel regulator, z6 dizzy, , ngk blue spark plug wires, p28 virgin ecu, with a y7/y8 water pump kit installed but i get a CEL for code 4 obd1 and cant rev past 3500rpm. I also still have stock fuel pump and y7 injectors I have tried the CKF bypass and made sure the connections were good and it still didn't clear the code. If anyone has a solution please help me because I'm at a lost.
If you have a '96-00 Civic chassis and you are using an OBD-1 P28 ECU (you weren't clear about this in your post), the ECU doesn't look for the CKF sensor, so you can ignore this. The problem is in your distributor or the wiring between it and the ECU. Do you have a GENUINE Honda Distributor or a cheap/junky auto parts store or EBay/Amazon Distributor ? EBay ECU and Distributor conversion harnesses are ALWAYS suspect, so you will need to actually check the wiring to make sure that the wiring at each pin between distributor plug and ECU plug shows continuity at the proper locations. I have seen aftermarket distributors with sensor pair wiring flipped making a polarity problem for the ECU... sometimes just de-pinning the two wires for the offending sensor and re-inserting them into the plug can cure your issue. Don't forget that if you have an original Z6 factory Distributor... it is at least 30 years old and it can be suspect as well. If you are in a position where you can try a "known good" distributor and ECU, plugging them in and seeing if the problem persists or is cured... it certainly rule them out and make your diagnostic path much smoother.
If you have a '96-00 Civic chassis and you are using an OBD-1 P28 ECU (you weren't clear about this in your post), the ECU doesn't look for the CKF sensor, so you can ignore this. The problem is in your distributor or the wiring between it and the ECU. Do you have a GENUINE Honda Distributor or a cheap/junky auto parts store or EBay/Amazon Distributor ? EBay ECU and Distributor conversion harnesses are ALWAYS suspect, so you will need to actually check the wiring to make sure that the wiring at each pin between distributor plug and ECU plug shows continuity at the proper locations. I have seen aftermarket distributors with sensor pair wiring flipped making a polarity problem for the ECU... sometimes just de-pinning the two wires for the offending sensor and re-inserting them into the plug can cure your issue. Don't forget that if you have an original Z6 factory Distributor... it is at least 30 years old and it can be suspect as well. If you are in a position where you can try a "known good" distributor and ECU, plugging them in and seeing if the problem persists or is cured... it certainly rule them out and make your diagnostic path much smoother.
I would buy a Boomslang Fabrications ECU conversion harness and wire the distributor up myself... but if this is beyond your ability, I would get a distributor conversion harness from RyWire. Now, I am no SOHC guru, but doesn't a Y7 distributor bolt on to the end of a Z6 head ? If so, why not use one of them ? That would plug directly into your engine harness. If that doesn't work, find a used Z6 housing and replace the coil, cap, and rotor button and use that.
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I think it is time you tested continuity between the distributor plug and the OBD-1 ECU plugs for all three sensor pairs: TDC, CKP, and CYP.
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