my engine head is warped
I am searching for a new head online. i have e-mailed a few places. is there anything i should watch out for when i am buying a used head? what questions should i ask the seller? i am buying from parts yards.
i would also like to know which years heads can fit a 94 LX Accord? can the 96-97 heads fit as well? i am searching for a direct match, since i do not want to have to pay my mechanic more money.
i really need help fast.
thanks in advance.
i hope i didn't make any more newbie mistakes in this post
and yes, i read the instructions.
i would also like to know which years heads can fit a 94 LX Accord? can the 96-97 heads fit as well? i am searching for a direct match, since i do not want to have to pay my mechanic more money.
i really need help fast.
thanks in advance.
i hope i didn't make any more newbie mistakes in this post
and yes, i read the instructions.
His car overheated.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=322913
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=322913
94-95-96-97 LX head will work.
Buying a head online is kind of a risk. ask if you can return it if it is messed up.
check and see if it is warped, they can probably tell you how much,if any, the head is warped. when you get it recheck it with a straight edge and a feeler gauge, it shouldnt be more than .002".
also inspect the head for cracks.
check valve seats in each combustion chamber for cracks, pits, and burned spots.
if you are getting the valve train also, check the face of the valves for any irregularities (cracks,pits,burned spots,etc.)
you should prbably have it blue'd too, to reveal any hairline fractures.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 12:36 PM 11/19/2002]
Buying a head online is kind of a risk. ask if you can return it if it is messed up.
check and see if it is warped, they can probably tell you how much,if any, the head is warped. when you get it recheck it with a straight edge and a feeler gauge, it shouldnt be more than .002".
also inspect the head for cracks.
check valve seats in each combustion chamber for cracks, pits, and burned spots.
if you are getting the valve train also, check the face of the valves for any irregularities (cracks,pits,burned spots,etc.)
you should prbably have it blue'd too, to reveal any hairline fractures.
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 12:36 PM 11/19/2002]
well, i am not totally sure as yet if my head is warped. i was just assuming it was warped, because i unknowingly drove it while the temp was in the red. i stopped frequently to try to cool it, but it stayed in the red. now, it won't start none at all. is it possible that my head can be repaired? i didn't want to run the risk of spending money on my head, and it is bad. i am open to all opinions
I got a 97 EX head sitting in my garage. I bought it as a spare head. But I don't need it any more. *Note* this is only the head, no intake manifold or exhaust manifold. I got the head check at the machine shop. Nothing wrong with it. Let me know.
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I got a 97 EX head sitting in my garage.
The head would bolt on his bottom end. My head is complete with the cam, valves, springs, retainers, cam gear, rocket arm assembly, vtec solenoid. It has everything except the valve cover. All he needs is to bolt this head on with his intake manifold and the other parts. And his need to go get a msd window switch and hook it up to his vtec solenoid and................ boom..... a little bit faster car.
[Modified by NXAccordTO4B, 1:28 AM 11/20/2002]
[Modified by NXAccordTO4B, 1:28 AM 11/20/2002]
are the coolant passages the same?
wont he still need to tap into an oil line and run it to his head?
whats he going to do about the fuel and ignition maps? its not really gonna help if more fuel isnt thrown in.
what about valve to piston clearance?
i would really love to know.i will do it,... if it can be done that easy.
its not quite as simple as "glue this piece to this piece".
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 8:38 PM 11/19/2002]
wont he still need to tap into an oil line and run it to his head?
whats he going to do about the fuel and ignition maps? its not really gonna help if more fuel isnt thrown in.
what about valve to piston clearance?
i would really love to know.i will do it,... if it can be done that easy.
its not quite as simple as "glue this piece to this piece".
[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 8:38 PM 11/19/2002]
I had a 97 SE and I put an EX motor it. The bottom end is the same. The only differents is the valve train, according to the helms manual. Fuel and ignition well i don't have answer for that......
w3rd, i would have looked in the helms too, but mine's at the shop with my car.
that would only be about an hour worth of work...but still not worth the money, IMHO.
that would only be about an hour worth of work...but still not worth the money, IMHO.
what's the final consensus? can i simply bolt on a vtec head or not?
it wouldnt be hard, but it wouldnt be cheap.
Personally wouldn't it be better to just swap in a f22b1, they can be had fairly cheap. I have full F22b1 swap with 99k on it for sale for $450 or b/o, shameless plug. You generally will end up spending more to buy a head, ecu, and miscellaneous parts plus labor when a whole engine can be had for a similar or lesser cost and be much easier to install.
I have also heard that when you overheat an aluminum block motor like a Honda you can fix it, but it will never be the same again. Basically buy a new motor.
I have also heard that when you overheat an aluminum block motor like a Honda you can fix it, but it will never be the same again. Basically buy a new motor.
Personally wouldn't it be better to just swap in a f22b1, they can be had fairly cheap.
I know around here, ive found numerous h23a's at salvage yards,computer and all, for $300-$400. cheap
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