2000 CR-V fwd no start

MY grandson's car is 30 miles away.

They didn't call yesterday until it was too late to go look.

I know very little about the car and I'm not even sure what it's doing or not.

They went and got a new battery, but I'm not sure it needed one.
I think it's turning over but not firing.

Which could mean a coil pack or maybe distributor,

I'm not fully grasping what I've read.
Is the coil pack available with the distributor?

Is the coil pack only available on its own?

I have no idea if there's any codes. They did have my cheap code reader, but couldn't find the port. I did a search and found the location.

He has well over 100,000 miles. I have no idea if there's a tune-up history.

Any ideas on what to take with me when I go?my list
spark tester
Multimeter
Socket set, wrenches, screw driver
Vice grips
BFH. For after I get frustrated

Battery tester
Hose pliers - to pull spark plug wires

Plug gapper - what's the plug gap supposed to be?

I'm wide open to suggestions.
Thanks

 

I'm not sure what parts I might need for a tune-up.

Should I look for Honda parts? Something like Hondaparts.com or a similar named website?

Looking on rockauto, there's a MSD ignition.

Would that have me covered up to wires and spark plugs?

Looks like the coil may be separate?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...butor+cap,7120

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...butor+cap,7120

 

I have had the timing belt break which would keep it from starting and I did have the coil assy or the igniter unit (I can't remember which) go bad.

2000 AWD


https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...ec.html?pnc=10

 

Thank you very much.
I didn't even think about this being a timing belt engine. I try to only buy vehicles with timing chains or gears.

Is it best to order the parts from the link you supplied? Or a dealership?

Do they have a timing belt kit, with water pump and everything? Or do you have to order each item that would make up the kit?

It was very cold when he developed difficulties. Which I've seen put the final kill to both timing belts and ignition systems. Especially those that are overdue for maintenance.

He has 160,000 miles on the car.


[​​​​QUOTE=sf340b;52790489]I have had the timing belt break which would keep it from starting and I did have the coil assy or the igniter unit (I can't remember which) go bad.

2000 AWD


https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-...ec.html?pnc=10[/QUOTE]

 

I would inspect the vehicle to make sure that is the problem.
You can pull the cap off the distributor and have someone crank the vehicle. If the rotor turns it is not the timing belt.

I compare the prices and availability of the items I need at the link provided and eBay.
I look for OEM parts in most cases and there are several dealers that sell OEM parts on eBay for a fair price including free shipping which is not available at Hondapartsnow.

Sometimes you can find a kit that somebody has put together but that is unusual for some items.

There are multitudes of videos on YouTube on troubleshooting the no start. That will confirm what parts you need.

 

The vehicle is running - bad / corroded battery cables.

Do to it having 160,000 miles on it and being 24 years old. I'd say it definitely needs a timing belt and tune-up.

I haven't figured out how to make a definitive parts list for the timing belt or the tune-up.

Is there a parts list somewhere?

I have a made in Japan timing belt kit in my cart on eBay. But it's not Honda parts.

I couldn't find anything like the kit below that's for a Toyota.
any links would be appreciated.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/32351784339...kaApxvEALw_wcB

 

This is the made in Japan timing belt/water pump kit that I have in my cart.

Is there anything on the parts list I can skip?

Is there anything not on the parts list I should add?

This Kit Includes:

• 1-NPW Water Pump (made in japan)
• 1-NPW Water Pump Gasket (made in japan)
• 1-SUN Timing Belt (made in japan)
• 3-Bando Serpentine Belts(made in japan)
• 2-NOK Camshaft Oil Seals (made in japan)
• 1-NOK Crankshaft Oil Seal (made in japan)
• 1-Koyo Belt Tensioner (made in japan)
• 1-Stone Valve Cover Gasket Set (made in japan)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/202953174944

 

What do I need for a tune-up?

I realize I don't need 10 spark plugs. I assume I

​​​ can order those off Amazon or someplace.

This is what I have in my cart.

Is there anything I need to add or that I don't need?

Thanks

• 
  Part No.: 30110-PA1-732O-Ring (26.4X3.1) (TEC)[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $3.08
  1
• 
  Part No.: 98079-5614GSpark Plug (ZFR6F-11) (NGK)JHLRD2840YC017649 [CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door LX (2WD) | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $30.40
  
• 
  Part No.: 30135-P08-006Screw-Washer (5X12)[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $1.10
  1
• 
  Part No.: 32701-PHK-003Wire, Resistance (NO.1)JHLRD2840YC017649 [CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door LX (2WD) | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $17.18
  1
• 
  Part No.: 30103-P08-003Head Assy., Rotor[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $28.20
  1
• 
  Part No.: 30132-PT2-006Gasket, Cap[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $1.70
  1
• 
  Part No.: 30107-P08-006Cover, Leak[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $2.68
  1
• 
  Part No.: 32700-PHK-405Wire Assy., IgnitionJHLRD2840YC017649 [CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door LX (2WD) | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $71.54
  1
• 
  Part No.: 30102-P54-006Cap Assy.[CR-V | 2000 | 5 Door EX | KA 4AT]
  Remove
  $39.27
  1

 

That looks like it should work.

I searched for a 2000 Honda CRV tune up kit on eBay and several came up. Not all OEM parts but there were so many too chose from and how many parts you want in the kit.
Those kits were around $125 give or take the different parts included.

 

Hello, My daughter has a 2000 CRV . recently it just stopped. Thankfully in my driveway. It would turn over but not catch(start) . We checked for fire and fuel. We had both. Fuel pump o.k. pressure o.k. wires o.k. distributor, new. Timing belt new. We checked that it was TDC. All checked out. So we sent off for a crank shaft positioning sensor. Installed it and it runs like a dream. When we pulled the sensor it was so dirty and had metal shaving on it, this caused it not to send a signal to the computer to tell it to spray the fuel from the injectors.

 

Do you have an opinion on the parts I have listed in posts 7 & 8?

I just read that Aisin timing belt kit TKH-014 is the go to kit.

It has less stuff and is cheaper.

I don't have a clue what I really need. I prefer to buy the best parts available.

I'm not keen on buying off eBay or Amazon because of the counterfeit parts issues

 

There are Honda dealers selling on eBay. They are OEM parts at a fair price with free shipping in most cases. Google the dealer name and call them in person but you will not get the same price, shipping, or delivery schedule.

 

I don't have a real opinion on tune up kits. I generally replace wires , plugs ,seals , gaskets and bearings when needed. I check them at oil changes for wear or leaks.
As for the timing belt I would pull the cover to see if its worn or broken. Its a good idea to buy the kit that has both the belt and water pump if they need replaced. Also, why you have the hamonic balancer off take off the crank shaft sensor and check it for deposits that might interrupt the signal to the computer.

 

DId my links go to dealers selling?

I guess I never looked at the sellers.

I'll check

Do you know of any dealers selling on eBay?

I know, one of the Honda parts online pages is BKHonda

 

"Do you know of any dealers selling on eBay?"

I do not remember any specific dealer but when you search for the part numbers that you want add in OEM and then you will see the seller details.

 

I've been trying to get a tune-up kit lined up
There's the one on Amazon. Is it Honda OEM quality?
What are the 3 little screws? Honda part number for the 3 screws?

Next post I will try to post my cart from the local dealership. It doesn't have the 3 little screws. I think it has most everything else.

What's the torque for the banjo bolt on the fuel filter?

 

My cart at bkhondaparts.com

Filter Set, FuelProduct ID: 16010-ST5-E02Remove$33.42 × Quantity1 $33.42WASHER, SEALING [12mm]Product ID: 90428-PD6-003Remove$4.11 × Quantity2 $8.22O-RING [26.4X3.1] [TEC]Product ID: 30110-PA1-732Remove$3.29 × Quantity1 $3.29SPARK PLUG [ZFR6F-11] [NGK]Product ID: 98079-5614GRemove$3.23 × Quantity4 $12.92SCREW-WASHER [5X12]Product ID: 30135-P08-006Remove$1.16 × Quantity1 $1.16HEAD ASSEMBLY, ROTORProduct ID: 30103-P08-003Remove$28.68 × Quantity1 $28.68Gasket, CapProduct ID: 30132-PT2-006Remove$1.80 × Quantity1 $1.80Cover, LeakProduct ID: 30107-P08-006Remove$2.84 × Quantity1 $2.84WIRE ASSEMBLY, IGNITIONProduct ID: 32700-PHK-405Remove$69.72 × Quantity1 $69.72CAP ASSEMBLYProduct ID: 30102-P54-006Remove$39.27 × Quantity1 $39.27Grommet, PCV ValveProduct ID: 17139-PK1-000Remove$3.39 × Quantity1 $3.39VALVE ASSEMBLY, PCVProduct ID: 17130-PV3-013Remove$23.60 × Quantity1 $23.60 Empty Cart

 

Changing the fuel filter

Gen 1 Fuel Filter
I also wondered what to do about the fuel filter as there was no mention in the owner's manual or the repair manual. Rather than wait for it to become clogged and cause problems far from home, I chose to replace it. I won't wait 127,000 miles before the next change however. A clogged fuel filter makes the fuel pump work much harder (shortening its life).

Parts required: fuel filter, 2 12mm sealing washers.

The repair manual steps were pretty simple. The only changes I'd suggest would be to remove the air flow tube connecting the air filter box to the throttle body as this provides much needed room for using wrenches on the filter assembly.

The steps were:

1. Do this job in a well ventilated area with fire extinguishers handy just in case!
2. Write down radio memory presets and make sure you have the security code!
3. Disconnect the negative battery lead.
4. Remove the gas cap to relieve tank pressure.
5. Place rags under the filter and around the filter body to catch any fuel that leaks.
6. With two wrenches, crescent on the filter body for support and a 17mm box-end wrench on the banjo bolt, crack the top banjo bolt loose ONE TURN.
7. Use crescent wrench on bottom of fuel filter for support and a ??mm wrench to remove the bottom fuel feed pipe nut - WARNING: THE OLD FILTER WILL LEAK ALOT OF FUEL SO BE READY TO CATCH IT WITH A SMALL GLASS CONTAINER AND RAGS. completely remove the banjo bolt and tuck the hose aside and out of the way. Remove the old sealing washers if they're stuck on the face of the pipe or bolt.
8. Remove the 3 bolts holding the filter bracket to the firewall (12mm socket I think).
9. Remove the plastic connector attached to the filter bracket (use needle nose pliers to pinch in the retaining tabs) that connects to the purge cannister so you can completely remove the assembly from the car.
10. Unbolt the fuel filter band bracket and remove the old filter.

Reassembly is the reverse. DON'T FORGET THE SEALING WASHERS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE BANJO BOLT FUEL FEED HOSE FITTING. Torque figure for the banjo bolt was 33Nm, 37Nm for the bottom supply bolt, and 9.8Nm for the two bolts holding the bracket to the firewall. Before putting the air tube back, clean up the area, remove all gas-soaked material, screw the gas cap back on, reconnect the battery, and turn the ignition switch to ON (not start!). Listen for the fuel pump clicking and look for leaks. If no leaks, reconnect the air tube and start the engine checking for leaks again. If all's well, go for a test drive and check one more time for leaks.

Is there a short piece of line with a hose barb that can be attached to where the banjo bolt goes to bleed the filter before installing the banjo bolt?

I always bleed the filters on my diesels. I'm not very familiar with gasoline powered vehicles

 

Sir,
I do not have all the answers to these questions. Sorry.

 

You may not realize it, but you and others that have replied have been a tremendous help.

I ordered the eBay timing belt kit with the 3 belts and the tune-up kit off of Amazon.

I hope I did right and that I didn't order counterfeit parts - that's a huge issue - bigger than a lot of people realize.

Sometimes when you see bad reviews for what is normally a higher quality item, it's because they're reviewing a counterfeit item.
I saw a lot of reviews for fishing line that broke while being reeled up.
The counterfeit ACDelcoo glow plugs were so well done, even they couldn't tell the difference without destructive and meteorological testing.

There's some counterfeit guns out there that are actually better than the originals