Idle issues with eg B16a motor
Ok I'll start from the beginning we replaced a IAC valve hose a couple weeks back because it was causing a vacuum leak on one side and leaking from the other so we replaced it, now we can drive the car 15 to 20 minutes and then the RPMs drop and the car wants to shut off the last couple times the car actually shut off. not sure what it could be a couple of people have told me maybe we got air in the line when we swapped out the hoses. I talked to a mechanic he said it might be the distributor.? any help would be appreciated thank you
I don't believe the distributor is your issue... trying a known good one will certainly rule this out, but this isn't the first thing I would look at to solve your issue.
More than likely it's still something with the IACV, or another vacuum leak/blockage you have somewhere else in the system (like the FITV if you still have it installed).
FITV wouldn't necessarliy be my first guess as that should be most active on a cold start, not when the car is warm and driving. Have you cleaned the IACV screen? There's a mesh screen on it, if you've never cleaned it, pop it off the car and shoot it with some carb/brake cleaner and get it all cleared up.
The car should idle at about ~900-950RPM.
FITV wouldn't necessarliy be my first guess as that should be most active on a cold start, not when the car is warm and driving. Have you cleaned the IACV screen? There's a mesh screen on it, if you've never cleaned it, pop it off the car and shoot it with some carb/brake cleaner and get it all cleared up.
The car should idle at about ~900-950RPM.
More than likely it's still something with the IACV, or another vacuum leak/blockage you have somewhere else in the system (like the FITV if you still have it installed).
FITV wouldn't necessarliy be my first guess as that should be most active on a cold start, not when the car is warm and driving. Have you cleaned the IACV screen? There's a mesh screen on it, if you've never cleaned it, pop it off the car and shoot it with some carb/brake cleaner and get it all cleared up.
The car should idle at about ~900-950RPM.
FITV wouldn't necessarliy be my first guess as that should be most active on a cold start, not when the car is warm and driving. Have you cleaned the IACV screen? There's a mesh screen on it, if you've never cleaned it, pop it off the car and shoot it with some carb/brake cleaner and get it all cleared up.
The car should idle at about ~900-950RPM.
If the "hunting idle" comes and goes... it is air trapped in the cooling system. If the problem begins after fifteen or twenty minutes and never stops after this until you turn the engine off... it is something else.
usually when it starts doing that we're close to the house so we don't know if it stops doing it, we usually pull in and shut it off. If it is air in line how long will it act like that before going back to normal? If it don't stop till we shut it off what else could it be?
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Think of the air pocket like the Moon orbiting the Earth. You can only see the Moon when it is in the right place... not all of the time. When the air bubble is just in the right place, the engine begins to "idle hunt". Once it passes this point, it must move through the cooling system until it comes back around to the same location where the "hunting" begins. So, once it happens, drive some more. Go around the block a few times... the starting and stopping moves air through the system. Idling doesn't move much fluid... so the problem will stay longer in this condition.
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ITR1071
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May 25, 2002 01:05 PM







