I have a 93 civic dx coupe with a b20b, gsr tranny and has the p06 ecu (believe it's on accords) and is asking for a heated oxygen sensor heater (code 41). I don't have a cat but I did get a upstream/downstream o2 sensor for 92-2000 civic/del sol. Do I actually need a catalytic converter or is it another sensor I'm missing or could it be because the p06 ecu? P.S. I just bought a p75 ecu but it's obd2. So I'm waiting on a adapter that I purchased.

 

OBD1 ecus only look for upstream sensors. If you've installed a new sensor and still have a code, then you have a wiring issue. Code 41 is for the heater circuit. It's a really simple circuit, gets power from one of the ignition on circuits and is ground side switched by the ecu.

You will not be able to make your car happy with an OBD2 ecu without a significant amount of work (wiring, fuel tank swap, etc).

If you are not interested in tuning and want it to run okay-ish on a stock ecu, an OBD1 P75 is what you are after.

P06 is a Civic LX/DX ecu

 

ohh ok I see. I though it was just the sensor or computer because for the first half second when I turn the car on, it seems to want to do the job and stay at the rpms it should be at but then it goes back down to where it almost wants to turn off but ones the car warms up, the car goes from boggling to 1000 rpms. I will check the wiring and make sure everything is correct. It burns way too rich and can smell the raw gas from it not burning right. Also would upstream be considered on the headers or anywhere before the cat? Thank you for the info

 

Anywhere before or 'upstream' of the cat.

 

Got it. I appreciate you man

 

You're welcome. Don't forget to follow up on your post when you fix the issue.

 

So the ecu I have on is the p0b. Would that be a possibility that it's throwing the code? I'm barely gonna get to checking the wiring. I didn't have time during the week since I was changing the coilovers on it.

 

I couldn't figure out the issue. I checked all fuses and wires and they all looked good. So I'm going to send it to my mechanic so he can fix it.

 

That's an Accord ecu. I'm not familiar enough with them to say what's different, but it's possible there are some different pin locations. I doubt the O2 heater pin is moved around though.

You really need to start with, at least, a P75 ecu. You're never going to get it running right with a stock Accord ecu. Is it giving you any other codes, for EGR control, or such? Is the ecu modified in any way?

What troubleshooting have you done?

 

I bought the car with just the tranny and the b20 block which turned out bad and so I bought a high comp b20b. I don't know if the ecu is modified. The guy didn't tell me much about it. I "bought" a p28 with a burnt basemap for my engine but I think I got scammed. So I'm just going to order an adapter for the obd2 p75. I checked the connections on the sensor, the plugs and pins, the fuses and wires that run to the harness from when it connects the sensor. They all looked good and it only gives me code 41

 

The obd2 ecu will NOT run your car without throwing a bunch of codes.

 

I'm just gonna have to sell it and get an obd1 ecu

 

Correct.

 

I got two p75 ecus. Both are giving me code 14. I changed the idel air control valve with a new one and it still gave me the code, so I thought that it was a bad ecm. I went ahead and bought another and still got the code. So I either got a wiring issue or I just got another bad ecm

 

Also the check engine light comes on after 5 to 10 seconds after it's on and when the car is warming up, the rpms will go up from 1000 to 2000 and when it fully warms up, it'll turn right off. It's like if my acceleration goes real low because if I step a bit on the throttle, the car will turn on but it'll turn off one I take my foot off

 

Check the wires in the IACV plug. Any damage ? If not, what are the wire colors in your IACV plug ? The chances of you getting a couple bad ECU's AND a couple bad IACV's is almost none...

 

So update. I got a p28 with a basemap for the b20b but still had the codes. I went on and got a tucked harness from carrotop tunning. I still had the check engine light but I wasn't able to check the code anymore because the engine light wouldn't flash. So I took it to get it tuned and now it's running solid. Only thing bad that it ended up having was the cooling temperature sensor.

 

A bad ECT sensor will make an engine run really bad... this problem is a big deal. Glad to hear that you got it all tuned up and running well.