OK, my CEL light came on and i'm getting three codes.
CODE 1: Seven short flashes: I figured out the throttle position code and I know that's off and have to adjust it AGAIN....
CODE 2: One long five short: Ignition output ? what does this mean?
CODE 3. Five long flashes: ?

The car will go if I don't mash the gas too hard but if I floor it it bogs badly. this I suspect is the TPS so i'm going to adjust that again soon and hopefully get it right this time.
The other codes are a mystery to me.... STOCK 95. 1.5 DEL SOL W COLD-AIR INTAKE ADDED.

THANKS

 

Code 5 is a MAP sensor code. The type of MAP sensor for this code is usually installed on the firewall and has a vacuum line connected to the throttle body or intake manifold to acquire a manifold pressure signal. Code 7 is a TPS code as you have mentioned... make sure it is set correctly and then open the throttle blade fully and make sure that the voltage is between 4.20v and 4.70v. Code 15 is a bad ICM... and if I remember correctly, you have had some performance/driveability issues, so a failing/faulty Ignition Control Module may not deliver the appropriate signal to effectively fire the coil.

 

I have several ICM's so I'll change that right away. I thought I changed the MAP but can't remember.... THANKS!

 

UPDATE:
Installed a new ICM
Installed a new MAP sensor
tried to calibrate my TPS and got it within specs for wide open but it's about .34v at idle.
Took it for a test and SAME THING. runs great cold but bogs badly hot. If I slowly push the gas it will go but too much gas and it just makes noise and goes nowhere. It's not getting enough gas when hot.
The last thing I have to check is ignition timing but my light broke so I need another. Which way do I turn the distributor to advance the timing? clockwise or counterclockwise. 1.5 D .

Oh, and i shredded the alternator belt. apparently it was old and ready to go. it make a heck of a racket...

When I get my del sols running well and painted i'm going to sell them and get an old Jeep with A CARB. This fuel injection is a nightmare.

THANKS

 

Do you still get all three codes ?

Turning the top of the distributor toward the firewall advances ignition timing... turning it toward the radiator retards the timing. When facing the distributor from the right side of the vehicle, this would be counter-clockwise (advance) and clockwise (retard) respectively.

A bad ECT could be causing your issues... reading a really hot value but still within voltage range (so it doesn't throw a code) will run better when the engine is cold and then run poorly once it has come up to operating temperature.

 

CEL is now off. The ECT was about the only thing I didn't change on this del sol. I changed it on my Si but not my S. I'll get one and give an update. my coolant gauge seems to be reading correctly.

THANKS

 

To be clear, I am not talking about the single wire ECT sensor probe that drives the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster. I am referring to the TWO wire sensor closer to the front of the engine that tells the ECU what the engine temperature is. The plug connected to it has a red/white and a green/white wire in it.

 

I bought these two ECT's but I think that they both install near the thermostat housing, not the "front of the engine".
THANKS

 

The sensor I am referencing is on the right side end of the cylinder head, closer to the front of the engine, under the distributor.

 

so neither of the sensors I bought are correct? one is the switch to the gauge but the other is the temp signal to the computer, right?

 

Post a pic of the two sensors that you purchased please.

 

Sorry, I thought I added a link to the ebay purchase. Here's what I bought. THANKS

Quote:

Radiator Coolant Fan Temperature Sensor Water Temp Switch fit Civic delSol 93-97

 

The lower sensor in your pic above with the black plug is the correct sensor for the ECU (Part # 37870-PJ7-003). The other sensor is the cooling fan switch. Just an additional note: IF you paid LESS than about $120.00 for the pair of these two sensors, it is likely that you have purchased counterfeit product... and they will NOT function like the genuine parts you need to solve your issues.

 

I paid 1/10 so yeah, probably counterfeit but even if I paid 120 I still have no guarantee of authenticity. The ad said genuine Honda part so that's all I can do. it's got to work better than what's in the car. also, if the problem changes dramatically but still hesitates a little, i'll live with it. Thanks for your help. after I install I'll update this thread with the results. I sure do miss carburetors...

 

Bad grammar or improper punctuation is a dead give-away to a counterfeit listing. In this case, the "Two Years Warranty" is the clue to tip you off for a probable counterfeit listing.

 

yeah, probably chinese made but they came in nice bags that say "Genuine Honda" on them.... I wish that there were a way to tell by looking at them. If Honda would stamp their parts with their logo that would be nice. I'll go back to ebay and look at some others and compare. Thanks for your help! for better or worse it's installed but I shredded an alternator belt so can't take it for a test drive.