k this is my deal. i am running a type r with a greddy turbo setup that has a power fc and basically the whole setup. when i go into boost at around 5500RPM if i punch it will start to lunge forward then not go and it backfires and detonates pretty perfusely. my fuel pressure is currently at 42psi at idle. it says my timing is at 44 degrees advance when im driving an 16degrees advance when im idle. i was thinking my msd ignition could some way be causeing my timing to advance way to far in turn making my car detonate and all that bad stuff when i go into boost. if someone can give me some insight i would greatly appreciate it. oh also my power fc hasnt been tuned yet that will happen on nov.20 so all the knowledge i could get before i go to get it dyno tuned would greatly help my chances of egtting th eproblem fixed. thanks for all ur time whoever reads this

 

i remember my car did the exact same thing. but my problem sounds a little different than yours. mine detonated because my fpr wasnt getting enough vacuum, so the guys a&j and c-speed re-routed my fpr to a vacuum line that had better vacuum. problem was fixed after that. i thought the msd was my problem too, but it wasnt, it was the whole vacuum issue

 

i thought detonates means when your engine doesn't have enough fuel, but when you backfire that is because of excess unburnt fuel. so how do these 2 things happen at the same time above 5500 rpm? am i confused? someone clear this up.

 

Get with YellowBlur, he did a turbo on his R.

 

tahts what my deal is i get backfire and detonation. i think it might possibly be my fpr tyhansk for the help fellas., im getting my car dyno tuned at XS tomarrow ill post some dyno slips after i get it back and inform u all what the problem was. oh by the way i changed my name.

 

what vacuum line did u switch it over to. maybe i can test that out real fas. i had a problem once before with my fpr not working correctly.

 

what are you doing boosting before its tuned?
you are asking for a blown motor.

what are your plugs gapped to?

 

Id say!

 

i have my fpr hooked up with the vaccum line off the intake manifold. that was where my bov used to be hooked up to. can you show some pics of your setup? also, as sgt said, what are your plugs gapped to?

 

actually i need to re gap them i think they were at 35. lol im not boosting hard just normal driving and it boosts. yeah ill get some pics taken this weekend my friend has a digital we can use. but im not sure how to pst them on the web so when it gets to that point ill get someone to help me out. but yes i will post asap also ill post my dyno sheets

 

Definitely need to tune. Wat is your knock count on the PFC? You could just need to pull back timimg at 5500. Do you have cam gears? Have you checked your ignition timing for sure? 5500 would be right at VTEC cross over and there is all sorts of weird air/fuel stuff I could not compensate for with my PFC. Best I can tell it is dumping fuel right before VTEC. WHy do you say it is detonating? how many flashes are you getting with the the check engine light?

 

im getting about 1 or 2 flashes of teh check engine light. my cam gears are set both at 0 degrees. im having XS do all the tuning tomarrow if u want im me on aim at virtualpimp85

 

oh also, when i get the flashes my rpm gauge will flutter back and forth but i can still hear the engine rpms rising and the needle will just flutter back and forth a few times

 

Do you have an external coil?
The reason I ask is sometimes (i've had this) the coil can arch to
whatever the closest ground is (on my car it was intake plumbing)
causing a lack of spark which causes backfiring, misfiring, gas loading up etc.
Check your spark in the dark.

 

One more thing you can do..
pull your plugs and see how they look. It will tell you if you are lean or rich
and if its at idle or under load. You can use a chart at the back of a helms manual
to judge this. they have pretty good pics. unburnt fuel near the bottom of the plug means you are rich at idle. Broken electrode means bad plug. White spots on the electrode means not enough fuel etc etc.

 

I find it odd when you are talking about the FPR not receiving vacuum when you are boosting More like your rising rate regulator wasn't reading the boost to increase the fuel supply.

Anyway, try to go to your PowerFC and back down the timing and up the fuel. Just go to the testing function and you can change your timing and fuel for the entire powerband. At least that will let your car run safe before it gets fully tuned.

 

whoa man, sorry. just trying to help the guy out, that was what my problem was, sorry if I didnt explain it like an expert.

 

Ok i found out the problem. what was happening wa si had a double check valve aka a missing link on my MAP sensors so when i was running my stock comp it would read vacuum and not boost. so when i put my pcf in it was trying to read boost and was only getting vacuum inturn it was surging for fuel and boost. but wasnt able to read it. oh my car put out 345hp to wheels today at XS engineering at i believe 7600 rpm not to shabby. im pretty excited now i just have to get some slick and go time the SOB

 

whoa nice!!! you should post some plots. how much boost were you running? i imagine this is a built type r motor.

 

i was running 16psi of boost and yes it is fully built. and yes i am gonan post some plots i just need my brother to help me do it he is gonan helo me out this weekend so be prepared to witness the madness. ill make a ne wpost at that time.

 

can you describe your setup? what kind of turbo, manifold, etc.?

 

yeah the setup is as follows:

: B18C5, Mitsubishi TDO5H-18G Turbo w/ Custom bend piping, Boosted 16psi on pump gas, Thrust Front Mount Intercooler, Ross 9:2 to 1 Compression Pistons, Crower Connecting Rods, Total Seal Piston Rings, Apexi Dunk 2 1/2 inch Exhaust, Custom Test Pipe, Walboro 255gal/hr Fuel Pump, AEM Adj. Fuel Pressure Regulator, AEM Fuel Rail, 550cc Venom Injectors, GSR intake cam, MSD Digital 6AL Ignition w/ external Coil, MSD Rotor Cap, Magnecor 9mm Spark Plug Wires, NGK Spark Plugs, HKS Super-Sequential BOV, ACT Organic Spring Dampened Clutch, ACT HD Pressure Plate, Skunk 2 Adj. Cam Gears, ARP Head Studs, Cometic Head Gasket, Energy Suspension Motor Mount Inserts, GS-R Flywheel, K&N Valve Cover Breather, Balanced and Blueprinted Bottom End w/Custom Bearings done by AEBS, Apex Power FC Fuel Managment System Tuned by XS Engineering, DC Sport Short Shifter, Fluidyne Radiator, Blitz Dual Stage Turbo Timer, 2 1/4 A/F gauge, Greddy 60mm Boost Gauge

if anyone has any questions for me feel free to im me on aol at virtualpimp85


[Modified by B0osted TypeR, 6:14 AM 11/21/2002]

 

Post pics!!

 

direct port 100 shot will fix that knock for sure

 

haha. thats funny b18cxr. yeah i will post some pics as soon as my friend will take some ******* picture sof my car for me. he has a digital camera and can do it. i dont have one