i recently boosted my 98 gsr. i have the timing retarded 1 degree for every pound of boost to be safe. when i enter full boost (7psi) the turbo spools up and the waste gates opening but the car is not making any power. my afr at this point is like 11.8. it almost seems like its pulling harder out of boost than in boost. in addition, at idle the car runs extremely lean and then slowly drops down to like a 12 afr at which point the car almost dies and then it starts the lean to rich cycle again. any input would be GREATLY appreciated because I'm just out of ideas at this point

 

tuning it yourself?

 

my friend has been tuning for 15 years, so i let him do it. we are both new to the aem fic, but everything seems to be connected right

 

take it to the rollers, and figure it out man or it will wind up costing more than a good tune in the long run

 

post up your map. Maybe something is off. I know the aem fic can be tricky at first also since its a piggyback you have to trick the factory ecu into some things. It also reads in psia. Also list more of your setup. fueling, turbo, motor, build etc...

 

Ugh yeah if you dont know the aem its tough to figure out. I messed around with one for hours on my buddies car and couldnt get it to work. The a/f kept changing on their own and any changes i made didnt do much or anything and the car felt like a slug. I gave up after a while LOL and ive been tuning on oem based ecu programs for years

 

Tuning with the AEM FIC really isn't a hard task. Its pretty simple.

Maybe its possible you have a wiring issue from the installation? Are the rpms wondering badly when you have your lean to rich idle issue?

 

With the fic u have to setup the o2 map so that when you add or remove fuel the ecu doesn't try to do its own add and subtracting. That's how you get your afr to stay set. When you want it rich you tell the ecu its lean. Its a balnce that has to be ketp between the fic and factory ecu. Remeber its still a piggyback.

 

Correct, tried it just couldnt figure it out. Ive never really been a far of aem, always been tough to figure out but thats just me. i know the systems can work, ive seen them work, im just nto savvy enough to self learn the system the few times ive toyed with it. Im sure if i really got into the aem system i could do just fine with it, just not a super user friendly unit

 

I've always heard the aem stuff was a little tricky to tune. i would get some good logs before you mess up something expensive!

 

it idles at about 800 rpm as it slowly richens out. when it hits like 12.0 it will almost completely die, then recover and idle at about 1k until it drops back to 800

 

do i have to wire in a resistor to hook it up to my primary o2 sensor? i have the sideband connected

 

so i have my ignition on and the motor off, and the map gauge on the fic's software is going nuts. it ranges from 14-23 randomly with the car off. i disconnected the maf sensor and it continues to do this. i contacted aem and they seem to think that the map sensor inside the fic is defective.

 

ill get the map up when i can.. i have dsm 450 injectors, precision sc4431e turbo, stock obd2 gsr freshly honed, new bearings and rings, the head has blox valves and springs and arp head studs

 

Yes resistor is need. Also for tuning the o2 maps you wanna use % not volts.
Best thing to do is rev to 3k and hold it. Then adjust the o2 map % till your wideband give your that afr you want. You then have to put that into the map for where you want that afr to be.

i.e. its -20% on the o2 map gives you 12:1 and -30% gives you 11:1 You know how that if you want an afr of 11:1 you would put into the 02 map -30% and then you will use the fuel map to lean/rich it out till your afr are there.

And yes if the car is off and the aem on board map sensor is jumping from 14-23 then there is a wiring problem or bad sensor.

with the car off and datalogging the fic should be right about 14-15 depending on sea level.

and yea post the map up when you can i would like to look at it.